Westerly Centaur - Swap Volvo MD2B for Beta 14HP

[Jokani]

I am looking at swapping my aged MD2B for a new Beta 14HP with a tmc40 with 2-1 ratio.

Other than a new prop I was hoping to keep all other existing connections (exhaust system recently replaced, original tank and fuel supply system look in good condition)

Can anyone with experience of a similar job let me know of any difficulties I am likely to experience.

 

[Minchsailor]

I put a the 14HP 2 cylinder in a Nic 32 - bigger and heavier - so should be fine, although if I was doing it again I would go for the 3 cyl 20hp, a bit smoother. The MD2B was too big for the Centaur, but Westerly got hold of a job lot cheap.

 

[doug748]

Just a couple of points you may not have considered.

The engine calls for a 8mm fuel supply and leak off, which can be a pain to arrange, I would be inclined to consider keeping the smaller (6mm) if that is what you have, I think that is what I did.

You will need a 3/4in I/D water supply which, again, can be surprisingly tricky if you have limited space and poor access.

 

[Halo]

I swapped a Beta 13.5 for an Md1 in my old westerly 25. Best move I made on her. I got a new frame fabricated to take the engine after making a 3d mock up of the new engine This was like a box with the feet and output shaft etc in the right position. It enabled me to satisfy myself it would fit in and to determine if I could accommodate a deep oil pan. The boat will be lighter and go faster after fitting the beta.

 

[BabaYaga]

Also the exhaust hose diameter on the Beta will be 50mm, while probably 45mm on the Volvo? Plus on the other side of the engine.
Replacing a Volvo MD7a with a Beta 722 I also had to change the throttle cable from pulling action to pushing. Some/most Morse/Teleflex mechanisms can be rearranged to accomplish this. In my case the new engine was quite a bit shorter, which called for a new shaft. With the shaft out it will probably make sense to change the cutless bearing.

 

[Iliade]

I replaced the exhaust hose, prop & shaft, let a fuel return in through the top of the tank and bolted mine* straight onto the MD2B's bearers. It'll take you a while to get used to your fillings remaining in place while the motor is running, but it'll soon start to sound just as comforting. On board electronics will last longer and it may even be legal to tow the boat now.

* bought s/h as a 14 but transpired to be a 10. still superb, but I would prefer more horses in a blow.

 

[Bru]

Unless the budget is really tight I'd opt for the extra grunt and solidity of the 16, the 14 has always struck me as a bit of a lightweight

If space and budget permit, as has already been mentioned, the 3 pot 20 is smoother and I hazard a guess more economical at normal cruising speeds. (we've got the 20 in Erbas, we're a tads bigger than a Centaur but not much)

You really need to consider changing the prop though, to get the best out of any replacement engine

 

[dylanwinter]

so chaps....

how many hours?

How much money to do the job?

D

 

[Tam Lin]

so chaps....

how many hours?

How much money to do the job?

D

Don't ask! BTW has anyone ever thought of fitting an outboard to a Centaur?

 

[doug748]

so chaps....

how many hours?

How much money to do the job?

D

If you can get the engine for c£3,500 it is difficult to think up ways of spending a total of over £4,500 for the job. But you have to be prepared to do the lot yourself and re-use what you can.

When finished, the boat will be worth 1/3 to 1/2 less than your investment. So you have worked very hard to subsidise someone else's sailing. It only makes sense in a long term relationship.

Pretty much the same as bringing back old motorbikes and cars.

 

[ghostlymoron]

If you love your boat and intend to keep it, its worth doing. But not in purely financial terms.

 

[30boat]

Just a couple of points you may not have considered.

The engine calls for a 8mm fuel supply and leak off, which can be a pain to arrange, I would be inclined to consider keeping the smaller (6mm) if that is what you have, I think that is what I did.

You will need a 3/4in I/D water supply which, again, can be surprisingly tricky if you have limited space and poor access.

Just an idea.You can connect the leak off pipe to the fuel pipe just before the lift pump.No need to take it to the tank.

 

[Jokani]

Many thanks for all the advice, much appreciated.

Unfortunately whilst I have been deliberating the engine has now been sold. For those interested it was Ebay item 4d2ce6a6fa

Maybe a straight swap with a second hand Volvo would be a better option, cheaper and maybe able to keep the existing shaft and prop.

Something like this for £1500 and maybe another £500 in buts would give a total project cost of £2k, plus a lot less time?

http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/inboard-diesel-for-sale/volvo-penta-2003-28hp-marine-diesel-engine-package/14026#iCpbhVCOJEcCUusy.97

Appreciate at the end of this I would still have a second hand engine, but at probably half the cost and half the time of a new Beta, it may also make my Centaur more sellable in the future?

 

[dylanwinter]

G,

does your existing engine run?

D

 

[Tam Lin]

If you love your boat and intend to keep it, its worth doing. But not in purely financial terms.

Since when has boating had anything to do with financial common sense?

 

[Tam Lin]

Just an idea.You can connect the leak off pipe to the fuel pipe just before the lift pump.No need to take it to the tank.

My engineer agrees with this and says that he can connect the leak off pipe to the glass bottomed fuel filter. It has several connection points so it seems a good thing to do.

 

[Jokani]

Hi Dylan,

Yep, the existing engine runs. The compression was tested last summer and determined to be good, the engineer said that it would be good for a couple more years if not pushed hard.

When cold it can take a while to start, there can be quite a bit of white smoke, and if the revs are too high it sets of the exhaust temperature gauge

 

[ghostlymoron]

Since when has boating had anything to do with financial common sense?

That's what I said.

 

[dylanwinter]

Hi Dylan,

Yep, the existing engine runs. The compression was tested last summer and determined to be good, the engineer said that it would be good for a couple more years if not pushed hard.

When cold it can take a while to start, there can be quite a bit of white smoke, and if the revs are too high it sets of the exhaust temperature gauge

my advice - if you want to be on the water by April - is to get a stout outboard bracket

look in ebay for a 6 hp long shaft to use as a back up and get those two extra years from the fekked volvo

sail now.... fix, fettle and fiddle later is my motto

D

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_o...utboard&_nkw=6hp+long+shaft+outboard&_sacat=0

 

[Jokani]

look in ebay for a 6 hp long shaft to use as a back up

Yep, I think that is sound advice, I have set up a Google alert and to see if I can find something more local in the next few months.