Round Britain day 61

Concerto

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Someone mentioned a few days ago I should get some down wind sailing, well it happened today.

Today I had planned to go ashore in Tobermory, but the best laid plans can be disrupted by the weather. When I woke this morning, Concerto was bucking like a bronco. The guide was right, Tobermory is not comfortable in strong northerly winds. I could not believe how much some of the boats were moving. I have taken 4 screen shots from a video to show how much boats were moving. It was difficult to stay standing. After slipping the buoy, I motored at 2200 rpm which should give 5½ knots in smooth water, but only made 3 knots into the waves.

Once clear of the harbour at just after 8.30, Concerto was still bucking a lot and I decided to unfurl the genoa to the first reef to stabilise her. Nope, it did not do the trick and I thought it would be silly to attempt to raised the mainsail in those conditions. So turning on to a broad reach made it slightly more comfortable. Feeling the wind and how Concerto was performing, I felt she could handle the full genoa, remember she is a ¾ rig so not a huge headsail. She handled well and was making about 6½ knots, which I felt was fine. 20 minutes later a squall came through and woosh I hit 7.9 knots through the water. The Sound of Mull was a sea of white caps and wind lanes. During one of the squalls I noticed how the wind made small wavelets on top of the waves and pulled water droplets off the surface and then they dropped back in the water. Never seen that before. You could also see how the wind pushed under the genoa and it rippled the water furiously.

On the eastern shore was another boat that joined the Sound of Mull at the same time as me, but never caught me even though she was longer than Concerto. Later 4 other yachts followed me down the Sound from Tobermory. In the strong winds I just pulled away from them as I was holding more canvas. At one time I was changing from autopilot to hand steering and a gust hit, wow she broached toward the wind, but soon came under control. As I came by Lochaline, the wind dropped and my speed fell to 3½ knots. A large boat had caught me up when the wind dropped, then I noticed he had his engine on. She was a 43ft Jenneau with 6 adults on and looked like a sailing school boat. One of the boats astern had turned into wind to raise a small amount of mainsail. After a few minutes, I decided to prepare to raise the mainsail with a single reef. Everything was ready and I was just about to turn towards the wind to start raising when another blast of wind hit. Naturally I did not raise any mainsail. It meant I had caught the 43ft yacht up again. The wind had become an almost dead run. I was was on port and they were on starboard, so I cut close across their transom to gain a little space as they were not as controlled as me. For quite a while we were doing very similar speeds until we parted. I think they were surprised at how fast I was going compared to them.

From then on I gybed downwind to maintain a middle of the Sound course to avoid too many funnelled gusts of wind. At the southern end I kept the small islands with a light on my starboard. Then to round the next lighthouse was a dead run, so continued to gybe. Then I headed to port to make Oban. I checked the details of the 2 marinas and decided not to choose which one until I could see if the Transit Marina in Oban was fairly calm as it can be exposed in northerly winds. It looked calm enough, so decided it was for me. Oban being the busy ferry port meant I heard on the VHF a ferry was departing whilst still approaching the marina, so I went just outside the green cans. I had 4m under the keel as I was rigging the fenders, but suddenly this dropped to 1.5m, so I almost brushed the buoy to stay out of the channel. Quickly I called the harbour master's office, but they did not know if there were any spare berths, but just pick any empty one. I finally rigged to more to starboard. As you expected, the first 3 berths were for mooring to port, but I went further in and had a choice of two. I took the one nearest the ramp. Entered very slowly and another yachtsman came to assist me, but I did not really need it but thanked him anyway. It was 13.15, so it was a fast trip to cover 28 miles including leaving and entering the harbours.

After a bite of lunch I decided to have a look round the town before going to Tesco for some urgent supplies. I had run out of chocolate and ciders, so it was an emergency. By the time I returned I was feeling a little tired. As I was putting my shopping away, I noticed someone on the finger pontoon tying a rope to a middle cleat. I popped out to ask if he would like a hand, he thought he could do it with his wife, but agreed another pair of hands would be useful. To be honest and he agreed, they could not have managed without my help to pull their HR356 across so they did not lie so hard on they fenders. Using warps and winches made it fairly easy , but they needed help to stop the bow hitting the pontoon.

Having found almost no tv signal for over a week, it was nice to watch a few programs whilst reading the forums and then making supper. The usual bit of loading the latest photos to the laptop and then resizing some to load on here always takes time, made longer by making the screen grabs from the video.

Overall it was a great day's sail and for the first time on this trip I did not raise the mainsail, but it did not affect the boat speed. Oh, and nothing broke.

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HR34 bows down

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Bows up

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The ketch is about 40 to 42ft I estimated

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But she bucked like the rest

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Looking down the Sound of Mull and it looks quite calm

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This was the 43ft Jeneau as we parted company

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The small islands at the southern end of the Sound

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Looking north as I approached Oban

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Looking almost astern

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The Transit Marina, Oban

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Concerto is dwarfed by the huge Canadian yacht astern. This is the only yacht I have ever seen with 2 sprayhoods, one for passengers and one for the helsman.

RB Map 18 A.jpg

For anyone wanting to read the reports from the start, this is the link to first one.
Round Britian day 1
 

NormanS

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I'm enjoying reading about your trip, but sometimes I'm shaking my head. You had read that Tobermory gives poor shelter in a northerly wind, and yet you still went there, and found that Concerto was "bucking like a bronco". It's not as if there isn't a big choice of other anchorages. In your circumstances, on passage with little time to spare, and a northerly wind expected, I would probably have stopped at Kilchoan, but there are plenty of other options. Enjoy your trip.
 

Concerto

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I'm enjoying reading about your trip, but sometimes I'm shaking my head. You had read that Tobermory gives poor shelter in a northerly wind, and yet you still went there, and found that Concerto was "bucking like a bronco". It's not as if there isn't a big choice of other anchorages. In your circumstances, on passage with little time to spare, and a northerly wind expected, I would probably have stopped at Kilchoan, but there are plenty of other options. Enjoy your trip.
Too frequently I have found wind forecasts to be wildly wrong in speed and direction. Once I arrived in Tobermory I checked where north was in relation to the mooring I had selected and wrongly assumed it would be more protected. If I thought it was going to be too bad I would have continued on to Lochaline, which would have been well sheltered, BUT ir was a further 15 miles of motoring and I would have arrived at about 9pm. Although I am happy to do very long days sailing, my decision to use Tobermory was exactly the same as 4 other boats ahead of me.

We can always look back with hindsight and say it should have been done differently. Your knowledge of this area is far greater than mine as this is the first time I have sailed in these waters. No doubt if you sailed in my area of the East Coast, you would find sailing in the shallow waters very difficult compared to the depths in Scotland. Someone I know likened it to sailing on wet grass. Entering some of the harbours and anchorages you are guided by withies, not buoys. Many entrances are tidal and have shifting sand or shinkle that has to be recharted every spring. The most notable are the Deben and Wells-next-the-sea. On this trip I entered Wells for the first time and found the harbourmaster was recommending other sailors to wait another hour for the tide to rise further before entering as it was a little rough, but I still had a minimum of a metre under the keel. That is what I expected and is enough clearance for me.
 

Bodach na mara

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I was sitting in Lochaline on the day of your trip. We woke to find the strong northerly winds and abandoned our plan to move to Tobermory in favour of staying put. I respect your ability to sail in these conditions. I am now tied up to a finger in Tobermory after an uneventful motor up the sound.
I have to take issue with NormanS about alternative places to stop near Tobermory. Yes, if you know these waters there are a few places, but for someone passing through for the first time they are not attractive. Even to someone who has sailed in the area since the 1960s, many of the anchorages look hard to enter or vulnerable to changes in wind direction.
 

NormanS

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Too frequently I have found wind forecasts to be wildly wrong in speed and direction. Once I arrived in Tobermory I checked where north was in relation to the mooring I had selected and wrongly assumed it would be more protected. If I thought it was going to be too bad I would have continued on to Lochaline, which would have been well sheltered, BUT ir was a further 15 miles of motoring and I would have arrived at about 9pm. Although I am happy to do very long days sailing, my decision to use Tobermory was exactly the same as 4 other boats ahead of me.

We can always look back with hindsight and say it should have been done differently. Your knowledge of this area is far greater than mine as this is the first time I have sailed in these waters. No doubt if you sailed in my area of the East Coast, you would find sailing in the shallow waters very difficult compared to the depths in Scotland. Someone I know likened it to sailing on wet grass. Entering some of the harbours and anchorages you are guided by withies, not buoys. Many entrances are tidal and have shifting sand or shinkle that has to be recharted every spring. The most notable are the Deben and Wells-next-the-sea. On this trip I entered Wells for the first time and found the harbourmaster was recommending other sailors to wait another hour for the tide to rise further before entering as it was a little rough, but I still had a minimum of a metre under the keel. That is what I expected and is enough clearance for me.
You are quite correct. I would be most uncomfortable sailing on your "wet grass". My comment was an attempt at helpful criticism. It was yourself who said that "the guide" said that Tobermory is uncomfortable in northerly winds. I was merely pointing out that there would have been several other options. Often in northerlies, yachts leave Tobermory and head over to Loch Drumbuie, but that would have added a couple of miles, which is why I suggested that you could have stopped at Kilchoan, a mile before Tobermory, simple to enter, provided with moorings for visiting yachts if that is your preference, and perfectly sheltered in wind from the north.
 

NormanS

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I was sitting in Lochaline on the day of your trip. We woke to find the strong northerly winds and abandoned our plan to move to Tobermory in favour of staying put. I respect your ability to sail in these conditions. I am now tied up to a finger in Tobermory after an uneventful motor up the sound.
I have to take issue with NormanS about alternative places to stop near Tobermory. Yes, if you know these waters there are a few places, but for someone passing through for the first time they are not attractive. Even to someone who has sailed in the area since the 1960s, many of the anchorages look hard to enter or vulnerable to changes in wind direction.
You think Kilchoan Bay is difficult to enter? ?
 

Thistle

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Too frequently I have found wind forecasts to be wildly wrong in speed and direction.

Aye, the forecasters always seem to ignore islands and glens!

PS Enjoying reading your interesting posts about a wonderful trip: thank you!
 

Concerto

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You are quite correct. I would be most uncomfortable sailing on your "wet grass". My comment was an attempt at helpful criticism. It was yourself who said that "the guide" said that Tobermory is uncomfortable in northerly winds. I was merely pointing out that there would have been several other options. Often in northerlies, yachts leave Tobermory and head over to Loch Drumbuie, but that would have added a couple of miles, which is why I suggested that you could have stopped at Kilchoan, a mile before Tobermory, simple to enter, provided with moorings for visiting yachts if that is your preference, and perfectly sheltered in wind from the north.
This trip is a personal challenge, not a cruise, so I am using marinas most of the time for convenience. You may be horrified but I am using my chart plotter and the Cruising Association Almanac, the only charts I have aboard are large scale maps covering the Thames Estuary and the South Coast, plus one covering the whole of the UK to see how far I have travelled. For this trip that is all I really need as I am using more major ports not minor anchorages. If I was cruising the area I would have the charts and Clyde Cruising Guides to get the best from this area.

Being in a marina means I have a connection to mains so I can keep connected to the internet and keep my fridge running at 4C rather than knackering my batteries. I have found my solar panel does produce charge but not as much as I need. It was fitted before I bought Concerto and was probably fitted in about 2008 to 2010, so is old technology and has some slight damage. Where it is mounted I could also probably fit a slightly larger panel, so this is now on my list for upgrading in the near future. When you sail a boat continuously for months on end you discover things like this which may not be apparent when only using for 2 or 3 weeks at a time.
 

Concerto

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This morning I went for a walk up the hill to McCaig's Tower. Google maps suggested it would take 10 minutes, only if you are super fit as I took about 15 minutes without stopping. A strange monument but with a spectacular view. Here are a few photos.

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Towering above Oban is McCaig's Tower.

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The entrance

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Inside

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Framed view of the harbour

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View of the railway and fishing quay

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In the foreground is the Transit Marina and in the distance is Oban Marina on the Isle of Kerrera
 

Hial

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“Surely this is one of the finest spots we have ever seen” said Queen Victoria when she visited Oban in 1847!
 
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