Swordfish
Member
Thank you for a wonderful post, with great photos. I plan to follow in your footsteps very soon, such a wonderful cruising area.
Cruise Reports Corinth canal, Argolis and Saronic gulfs and back to the Ionian [with PICS].
- Thread starter Hardmy
- Start date
Hardmy
Member
Thanks for the kind words! As Andie says, it’s a great personal therapy during winter months…
Let’s continue with the end of part 1, its end of June and now time to head towards Aegina, where my parents will take over the boat with their friends.
Our anchor got stuck under a rock during a swim stop near Metopi, a low lying island SW of Aegina. I did try to go back and forth over it, but it didn’t help and there was a risk of bending the shank. Fortunately it was not too deep, and I could pass a warp over the roll bar with the Hook & Moor which proves that it can also be used for something else than catching a mooring buoy.
The island offers enough shelter from the waves created by the prevailing winds. But after having snorkeled around, I can say that the area is not so well charted as Navionics suggests it. Some caution must be exerted here.
Luck was with us on Aegina, where we got the last spot right in front of the taverna belonging to the local nautical club:
Returning to Athens (and onwards to the airport) from Aegina is very convenient, and a ride with the old flying dolphins of Russian origin is always an interesting experience. Watch at what speed they leave the harbor, the thing has near to nil steering when going astern. Love also the rough engine running at little RPM’s and the smoke
And here again, listen to the music when revs are slowly going up and suddenly turbos kick in. With the soot they produce, it won’t last long until these things will be phased out because of some new EU rules.
During July and August, we never use the boat. There are some reasons for this: heat (I refuse to switch on the A/C), crowded waters and there is way enough to do at home:
With the exception of the Hydra-Spetses-Aegina hotspots were crewed MY from Athens are coming for the week-end, there are very very few mobos in the area. Would you ship yours from the UK down to Greece or do the whole trip on your own bottom?
Let’s continue with the end of part 1, its end of June and now time to head towards Aegina, where my parents will take over the boat with their friends.
Our anchor got stuck under a rock during a swim stop near Metopi, a low lying island SW of Aegina. I did try to go back and forth over it, but it didn’t help and there was a risk of bending the shank. Fortunately it was not too deep, and I could pass a warp over the roll bar with the Hook & Moor which proves that it can also be used for something else than catching a mooring buoy.
The island offers enough shelter from the waves created by the prevailing winds. But after having snorkeled around, I can say that the area is not so well charted as Navionics suggests it. Some caution must be exerted here.
Luck was with us on Aegina, where we got the last spot right in front of the taverna belonging to the local nautical club:
Returning to Athens (and onwards to the airport) from Aegina is very convenient, and a ride with the old flying dolphins of Russian origin is always an interesting experience. Watch at what speed they leave the harbor, the thing has near to nil steering when going astern. Love also the rough engine running at little RPM’s and the smoke
And here again, listen to the music when revs are slowly going up and suddenly turbos kick in. With the soot they produce, it won’t last long until these things will be phased out because of some new EU rules.
During July and August, we never use the boat. There are some reasons for this: heat (I refuse to switch on the A/C), crowded waters and there is way enough to do at home:
Hardmy
Member
And now comes part 2.
It’s September and we find our boat in the Almira Boatyard in Ag. Theodori where my family left it. The place belongs to a family previously active in the production of concrete. I found them the winter before, when I was driving to Preveza. They said, we were their first foreign clients. The ambience is very friendly, and thanks of the “Proastiakos” commuter train, it’s well connected with the airport. The crane handling was fine and the boat was well propped on concrete. The yard itself will carry out A/F and other standard jobs but we’re not in Athens, so all tradesmen have to be brought in. There are small downsides though: the travellift pool is too narrow for catamarans and lies beam to prevailing winds. So it’s wise to crane early in the morning or in the evening. The yard is also close to the worst refinery I’ve ever seen so don’t expect a nice scenery, but we didn’t care. It’s a boat parking after all… I was happy to hear from the owners, that they were already fully booked for the winter. Shows like Greece became an irresistible magnet for all boats from Croatia or Turkey!
I’ve got a little shock anecdote to tell. After having hit the water, we fastened on one of the two mooring buoys (there is no harbor) for the night. I felt confident with the new shiny mooring ball and its chunky looking chain while the yard owner emphasized that he installed it very recently.
My wife and I prefer to sleep in the bow cabin and usually I immediately hear if there is a problem while on anchor for example. Not this time, I felt too confident. Next morning, I heard an unusual slapping noise on the bow and felt some kind of motion in the boat. I hurried up and see with horror that we are in the middle of the sea and had already drifted 2.5 NM towards W-SW with the mooring ball still attached to my bow gently bubbling along (albeit half submerged). At the same time I see a RIB hurrying towards us with a very worried yard owner on board. They tried to call us on our phones which were of course turned off, but were able to reach my parents back in Switzerland who are now very concerned as well. We let got the line, and the yard owner tried to tow his gear back to its initial position. But the 90 HP of the RIB weren’t enough, I wasn’t prepared to help him because our transit log was still in bond at customs and we weren’t cleared by the coast guard to sail. The type of things which can get you in serious trouble in Greece.
We were very lucky not having gone aground or being hit by another vessel. Because of the refinery and its tanker as well as the proximity of the Corinth canal, the area is quite busy. Its classic example of a mooring not adapted to the size/weight of a boat. But I’ve done a mistake as well. Usually I always dive to check the gear below but I was tired and the water was murky. I’ll never rely on third party equipment I haven’t checked myself.
We were still in for some surprises. Being under CH flag, the boat runs under the transit log instead of the DEKPA regime. That means, as soon as the boat is not in use I have to handover my papers to customs. Problem is that the customs authorities in Corinth are not used with this procedure and they lost my documents. Together with 3 customs officers, my taxi driver and I, we needed 2-3 hours to track it down in this byzantine mess!
The next bureaucratic step took place at the port police of Ag. Theodori to seek clearance and a couple of stamps (crew list, etc.). The problem is, they are only used to 100’000 DWT tankers so you can imagine what additional admin fight this implies.
Meanwhile my wife and her family left on her own the yard and we met in a bay SE of Corinth. She did all the maneuvering herself, so I’m quite proud of her!
From this moment, vacation can really start. We visit again Nea Epidavros:
and our preferred bay in its vicinity:
Methana. Note the colored water. There are thermal hot springs with high sulfur content.
Near Poros:
Approach of Poros:
to be continued...
It’s September and we find our boat in the Almira Boatyard in Ag. Theodori where my family left it. The place belongs to a family previously active in the production of concrete. I found them the winter before, when I was driving to Preveza. They said, we were their first foreign clients. The ambience is very friendly, and thanks of the “Proastiakos” commuter train, it’s well connected with the airport. The crane handling was fine and the boat was well propped on concrete. The yard itself will carry out A/F and other standard jobs but we’re not in Athens, so all tradesmen have to be brought in. There are small downsides though: the travellift pool is too narrow for catamarans and lies beam to prevailing winds. So it’s wise to crane early in the morning or in the evening. The yard is also close to the worst refinery I’ve ever seen so don’t expect a nice scenery, but we didn’t care. It’s a boat parking after all… I was happy to hear from the owners, that they were already fully booked for the winter. Shows like Greece became an irresistible magnet for all boats from Croatia or Turkey!
I’ve got a little shock anecdote to tell. After having hit the water, we fastened on one of the two mooring buoys (there is no harbor) for the night. I felt confident with the new shiny mooring ball and its chunky looking chain while the yard owner emphasized that he installed it very recently.
My wife and I prefer to sleep in the bow cabin and usually I immediately hear if there is a problem while on anchor for example. Not this time, I felt too confident. Next morning, I heard an unusual slapping noise on the bow and felt some kind of motion in the boat. I hurried up and see with horror that we are in the middle of the sea and had already drifted 2.5 NM towards W-SW with the mooring ball still attached to my bow gently bubbling along (albeit half submerged). At the same time I see a RIB hurrying towards us with a very worried yard owner on board. They tried to call us on our phones which were of course turned off, but were able to reach my parents back in Switzerland who are now very concerned as well. We let got the line, and the yard owner tried to tow his gear back to its initial position. But the 90 HP of the RIB weren’t enough, I wasn’t prepared to help him because our transit log was still in bond at customs and we weren’t cleared by the coast guard to sail. The type of things which can get you in serious trouble in Greece.
We were very lucky not having gone aground or being hit by another vessel. Because of the refinery and its tanker as well as the proximity of the Corinth canal, the area is quite busy. Its classic example of a mooring not adapted to the size/weight of a boat. But I’ve done a mistake as well. Usually I always dive to check the gear below but I was tired and the water was murky. I’ll never rely on third party equipment I haven’t checked myself.
We were still in for some surprises. Being under CH flag, the boat runs under the transit log instead of the DEKPA regime. That means, as soon as the boat is not in use I have to handover my papers to customs. Problem is that the customs authorities in Corinth are not used with this procedure and they lost my documents. Together with 3 customs officers, my taxi driver and I, we needed 2-3 hours to track it down in this byzantine mess!
The next bureaucratic step took place at the port police of Ag. Theodori to seek clearance and a couple of stamps (crew list, etc.). The problem is, they are only used to 100’000 DWT tankers so you can imagine what additional admin fight this implies.
Meanwhile my wife and her family left on her own the yard and we met in a bay SE of Corinth. She did all the maneuvering herself, so I’m quite proud of her!
From this moment, vacation can really start. We visit again Nea Epidavros:
and our preferred bay in its vicinity:
Methana. Note the colored water. There are thermal hot springs with high sulfur content.
Near Poros:
Approach of Poros:
to be continued...
Hardmy
Member
One of the highlights in the area is the isle of Hydra. The setting is beautiful; the island is completely car free with all transport done by mules. The sun shining on those old houses clinging to the mountain, it’s altogether a very special place. Even the tripper boats pouring hordes of tourists do not destroy the place. However, the harbor is for us hobby boaters a pure nightmare. Locals (i.e. tripper boats, taxi boats, …) are fiercely defending their berths, and the port police is constantly patrolling to chase intruders away. Nevertheless we could sneak into a spot next to a little cargo ship, but it was very clear that we wouldn’t spend a night here especially with the forecasted winds. The port police wanted to have us leave anyway. Visiting yachts are supposed to moor at the outer more, what they do in 2 or 3 rows. The anchor salad is programmed; we also caught a heavy chain with our anchor which I could release with the “magical hook”.
Untangling anchors and on the mole, sailyachts already in 2nd row, soon to be added with a 3rd one:
We finally left which proved to be a good decision. Not that seas will build up very high in those protected waters, but I just didn’t fancy to stay in this messy harbour for the night.
So once again, we found another spot for ourselves in the vicinity of Ermioni:
Ermioni is much more boaters friendly than Hydra. Depending on the weather situation one can moor on the N or S side of the village. At first sight, the N seems more protected. This is not always true; the high speed catamaran for instance sends a bad swell in the harbor. I saw a passarelle being crushed here; anchors which are not well set can dislodge themselves. But there are lots of good replenishment opportunities, bakeries, café, tavernas, etc. There is also an inviting peninsula overgrown with pine trees, nice for walking a bit under the shade.
The N-side:
Very convenient to pick-up people from and to Athens, but as said, look out for this b”=/%(=” catamaran!
Untangling anchors and on the mole, sailyachts already in 2nd row, soon to be added with a 3rd one:
We finally left which proved to be a good decision. Not that seas will build up very high in those protected waters, but I just didn’t fancy to stay in this messy harbour for the night.
So once again, we found another spot for ourselves in the vicinity of Ermioni:
Ermioni is much more boaters friendly than Hydra. Depending on the weather situation one can moor on the N or S side of the village. At first sight, the N seems more protected. This is not always true; the high speed catamaran for instance sends a bad swell in the harbor. I saw a passarelle being crushed here; anchors which are not well set can dislodge themselves. But there are lots of good replenishment opportunities, bakeries, café, tavernas, etc. There is also an inviting peninsula overgrown with pine trees, nice for walking a bit under the shade.
The N-side:
Very convenient to pick-up people from and to Athens, but as said, look out for this b”=/%(=” catamaran!
Hardmy
Member
We continue our voyage W-wards. The closer to Spetses and Porto Heli we come, the more villas and private harbors can be seen:
But as always, in keeping insisting it’s still possible to find a spot for itself and enjoy a balmy evening while walking around.
We found many additional spots around Porto Heli for a swim or a night:
Continuing towards Kilada, we kept sighting private harbors with nice toys parked in it. Like this one, will the connoisseur recognize her? Is she a Benetti or a Feadship?
No pics of the village of Kilada and ist bay, because OMG we had 1-2 days of overcast weather. But we’ll return for sure another year
But as always, in keeping insisting it’s still possible to find a spot for itself and enjoy a balmy evening while walking around.
We found many additional spots around Porto Heli for a swim or a night:
Continuing towards Kilada, we kept sighting private harbors with nice toys parked in it. Like this one, will the connoisseur recognize her? Is she a Benetti or a Feadship?
No pics of the village of Kilada and ist bay, because OMG we had 1-2 days of overcast weather. But we’ll return for sure another year
Hardmy
Member
So we go back to Porto Heli. The approach is done via a channel, with attractive houses on both sides, many can be rented on Airbnb and have an own pier. From time to time, passes the flying dolphin. He doesn’t care what's going on in the channel, he’ll just keep on steaming at 30 kts. Needless to say, it’s quite a surprise when it suddenly appears around the corner!
We didn’t really like Porto Heli although there is always a spot left on the huge former NATO pier. But you pay for no facilities at all. No water, no electricity. Not so funny to have this Gusta running its generators all the night. But here as well, it’s a good spot to pick-up friends and family which we actually did.
The N-coast of Spetses is very green and offers a couple of anchorages. But it is also very popular. Annoying was also the fact that tenders of big boats were driving/playing very fast around other boats which crew were swimming. The also kept running at high speed very close to the beach. I tried twice to gently ask our Russian neighbors for a little consideration, but I wasn’t successful so we left.
Spetses town has nothing to envy to Hydra in terms of popularity. Here again, space is scarce and it was sheer luck that we could literally squeeze ourselves in the last free spot.
Those rusting hulls add a special touch to such a touristic place. It remembers us the seafarers tradition of this island
Then comes unexpectedly a small ferry which announces itself with permanent horning. This isn’t enough, the crew stand on its bow and screams at other boats to get out of their way. A harbour movie at ist best.
To my surprise it offloads its cargo directly on a beach:
Typical for Greece also is a real yard where wooden boats are being built/attended to:
The promenade along the seashore is popular, but strolling behind the scenes allows sighting of beautiful palazzi slowly decatizing.
There were also some shops which weren’t selling the usual Chinese souvenir crap. This one for instance, with lots of paintings showing Spetses in older times:
We didn’t really like Porto Heli although there is always a spot left on the huge former NATO pier. But you pay for no facilities at all. No water, no electricity. Not so funny to have this Gusta running its generators all the night. But here as well, it’s a good spot to pick-up friends and family which we actually did.
The N-coast of Spetses is very green and offers a couple of anchorages. But it is also very popular. Annoying was also the fact that tenders of big boats were driving/playing very fast around other boats which crew were swimming. The also kept running at high speed very close to the beach. I tried twice to gently ask our Russian neighbors for a little consideration, but I wasn’t successful so we left.
Spetses town has nothing to envy to Hydra in terms of popularity. Here again, space is scarce and it was sheer luck that we could literally squeeze ourselves in the last free spot.
Those rusting hulls add a special touch to such a touristic place. It remembers us the seafarers tradition of this island
Then comes unexpectedly a small ferry which announces itself with permanent horning. This isn’t enough, the crew stand on its bow and screams at other boats to get out of their way. A harbour movie at ist best.
To my surprise it offloads its cargo directly on a beach:
Typical for Greece also is a real yard where wooden boats are being built/attended to:
The promenade along the seashore is popular, but strolling behind the scenes allows sighting of beautiful palazzi slowly decatizing.
There were also some shops which weren’t selling the usual Chinese souvenir crap. This one for instance, with lots of paintings showing Spetses in older times:
Hardmy
Member
After that, we had enough of civilization
… and went on the road again chasing anchorages on Hydra or Dokos:
stay tuned…
… and went on the road again chasing anchorages on Hydra or Dokos:
stay tuned…
markc
Well-known member
Wow, amazing cruise report. Thanks for posting!
Hardmy
Member
It’s now October, and the weather starts to be less stable. So we decide to leave the boat for the day safely on the mainland and return to Hydra with a small ferry.
What a good idea, this day I wouldn’t fancy to be here with the own boat.
Meanwhile it’s time to return to Preveza and it’s not the idea to do those 400 NM in a hurry, we actually like to cruise at around 8 kts sometimes 12-14 kts and very rarely at 18 kts. So we visit Aegina again, this time the harbor of Perdika. Here again there is not much space for visiting yachts, maybe 7-8 berths?
In order to have enough scope, one should drop its anchor between the bows of the boats on the opposite side. The water in the harbour is very clear so it’s easy to see where the hook is falling. Still, all crews are on deck ready to shout "friendly" instructions in order to prevent the famous greek anchor salad.
The weather being not so inviting for swimming, we decide to visit the inside of the island.
On our way towards Corinth canal, we stop again at Metopi island. We were very careful with our anchor so it didn’t get stuck. Must say, it’s difficult to find a spot where to properly dig the anchor in. There are rocks everywhere.
After leaving the lee of the island, we found ourselves with waves on our beam. It happens only 1-2 times a year to complain about this, but now it would have been very handy to have stabilizers. It’s even more frustrating to see a Ferretti passing behind us apparently effortlessly. To the contrary of us, they had the waves on their bow…
My brother is joining us as well. In order to pick him up from the Proastiakos train, we make fast at the former Sousaki yard. In the night, with stray dogs around it’s a bit a creepy place.
But it proved to be convenient to be so close to the E entrance of Corinth canal. Next morning we transit in the morning westwards. As always, one must make fast at the (high) pier to pay its dues.
What a good idea, this day I wouldn’t fancy to be here with the own boat.
Meanwhile it’s time to return to Preveza and it’s not the idea to do those 400 NM in a hurry, we actually like to cruise at around 8 kts sometimes 12-14 kts and very rarely at 18 kts. So we visit Aegina again, this time the harbor of Perdika. Here again there is not much space for visiting yachts, maybe 7-8 berths?
In order to have enough scope, one should drop its anchor between the bows of the boats on the opposite side. The water in the harbour is very clear so it’s easy to see where the hook is falling. Still, all crews are on deck ready to shout "friendly" instructions in order to prevent the famous greek anchor salad.
The weather being not so inviting for swimming, we decide to visit the inside of the island.
On our way towards Corinth canal, we stop again at Metopi island. We were very careful with our anchor so it didn’t get stuck. Must say, it’s difficult to find a spot where to properly dig the anchor in. There are rocks everywhere.
After leaving the lee of the island, we found ourselves with waves on our beam. It happens only 1-2 times a year to complain about this, but now it would have been very handy to have stabilizers. It’s even more frustrating to see a Ferretti passing behind us apparently effortlessly. To the contrary of us, they had the waves on their bow…
My brother is joining us as well. In order to pick him up from the Proastiakos train, we make fast at the former Sousaki yard. In the night, with stray dogs around it’s a bit a creepy place.
But it proved to be convenient to be so close to the E entrance of Corinth canal. Next morning we transit in the morning westwards. As always, one must make fast at the (high) pier to pay its dues.
Hardmy
Member
On our way to Galaxidhi, we manage this time to swim in one of the bay we did reconnaitre in spring. This time, without jelly fish!
Galaxidhi remains one of our preferred spot in the area. Not only its setting is beautiful, perhaps we did like the fact that there were no flotillas/charterers anymore? Anyway, besides eating out and walking around, I can also recommend a visit to the local maritime museum. It shows how important captains and commercial ships from Galaxidhi where in worldwide trade during the 19th century.
There are a couple of islets around the approaches of the town.
Just next doors is Itea, one of those recent towns which haven’t got any historical character. It proved once again, that the least touristic a place is, the welcoming the people are and the better the food is! However, I cannot recommend at all the derelict marina. I don’t mind too much with its unfinished state and the complete waste of EU money, but the slightest chop outside sends in a very uncomfortable swell. It’s basically a pretty useless harbor.
Keeing going westwards, we give again a miss to Trizonia and preferred to spend the night on anchor near Chiliadou.
I did try to enter the harbor, but I nearly ran aground and stirred up a lot of mud. Therefore I believe, that those two yachts must have a lifting keel:
I am bothering you again with pics of Navpaktos. Weather wise, luck was with us. So we could again stay inside.
The spot on my stbd proved to be OK for the catamaran, the quay being very low there. They dropped their anchor right at the good place and I was happy to help them with their lines:
I shot this pic, from the berths supposed to welcome passing yachts. It’s very clear, that this is not possible, hence all nautical guides are outdated.
The Rio – Antirio bridge. The longest suspended bridge in the world.
to be continued...
Galaxidhi remains one of our preferred spot in the area. Not only its setting is beautiful, perhaps we did like the fact that there were no flotillas/charterers anymore? Anyway, besides eating out and walking around, I can also recommend a visit to the local maritime museum. It shows how important captains and commercial ships from Galaxidhi where in worldwide trade during the 19th century.
There are a couple of islets around the approaches of the town.
Just next doors is Itea, one of those recent towns which haven’t got any historical character. It proved once again, that the least touristic a place is, the welcoming the people are and the better the food is! However, I cannot recommend at all the derelict marina. I don’t mind too much with its unfinished state and the complete waste of EU money, but the slightest chop outside sends in a very uncomfortable swell. It’s basically a pretty useless harbor.
Keeing going westwards, we give again a miss to Trizonia and preferred to spend the night on anchor near Chiliadou.
I did try to enter the harbor, but I nearly ran aground and stirred up a lot of mud. Therefore I believe, that those two yachts must have a lifting keel:
I am bothering you again with pics of Navpaktos. Weather wise, luck was with us. So we could again stay inside.
The spot on my stbd proved to be OK for the catamaran, the quay being very low there. They dropped their anchor right at the good place and I was happy to help them with their lines:
I shot this pic, from the berths supposed to welcome passing yachts. It’s very clear, that this is not possible, hence all nautical guides are outdated.
The Rio – Antirio bridge. The longest suspended bridge in the world.
to be continued...
rafiki_
Well-known member
Fantastic report and pics. Many thanks for brightening a dull January day in Blighty!!
We plan to return to Lefkada later this year, on a Sunsail raggie. We had a fantastic time in 2017, and will explore the area a bit further.
We plan to return to Lefkada later this year, on a Sunsail raggie. We had a fantastic time in 2017, and will explore the area a bit further.
Hardmy
Member
The entrance of Missolonghi channel by day.
For having the privilege to go alongside, we have to pay a couple of Euros more in the harbour office.
For the first time in a while we see again a flotilla (in the background of the pic). But there is so much space, that everybody is happy. Messolonghi has also a marina, which has been closed by the authorities. A very sad example of influent locals having a grip over the administration, which decisions have serious consequences over a not locally owned business. People in town are upset about this situation, because when the marina was up and running, it brought them additional business. Even liveaboards used to spend their winters here. There must be some university or school in Messolonghi, because there is a choice of bars full of young people. And we had one of the best and cheapest eating out here!
It’s 07:08 in the morning. I am moving the boat on my own, the others are still sleeping. I like to enjoy the dawning day alone.
Back now in more familiar waters, the Ionian sea.
The shorter days and the color of the light unmistakably remember us that we arrived in autumn. Here the Echinades:
Meganisi:
Thilia passage
Cont'd...
For having the privilege to go alongside, we have to pay a couple of Euros more in the harbour office.
For the first time in a while we see again a flotilla (in the background of the pic). But there is so much space, that everybody is happy. Messolonghi has also a marina, which has been closed by the authorities. A very sad example of influent locals having a grip over the administration, which decisions have serious consequences over a not locally owned business. People in town are upset about this situation, because when the marina was up and running, it brought them additional business. Even liveaboards used to spend their winters here. There must be some university or school in Messolonghi, because there is a choice of bars full of young people. And we had one of the best and cheapest eating out here!
It’s 07:08 in the morning. I am moving the boat on my own, the others are still sleeping. I like to enjoy the dawning day alone.
Back now in more familiar waters, the Ionian sea.
The shorter days and the color of the light unmistakably remember us that we arrived in autumn. Here the Echinades:
Meganisi:
Thilia passage
Cont'd...
BartW
Well-known member
waw, what a wonderfull post / report,
I admire your habit of visiting, or taking a walk in the inland,
I have to confess that I do tis very rarely because of a combination of lazy-ness, or don't want to leave the boat when I 'm not 200% that she is safely moored / anchored.
V, you leave the boat sometimes for a longer period (multiple weeks..) in new places, without anybody onboard (?)
do you choose and contact these marina's in advance, or leave it to the moment of visiting,
and just hope to find a safe place with a good connection to the airport ?
I can't show this post to my wife, as that region is so high on here wish list ;-)
Happy new year !
I admire your habit of visiting, or taking a walk in the inland,
I have to confess that I do tis very rarely because of a combination of lazy-ness, or don't want to leave the boat when I 'm not 200% that she is safely moored / anchored.
V, you leave the boat sometimes for a longer period (multiple weeks..) in new places, without anybody onboard (?)
do you choose and contact these marina's in advance, or leave it to the moment of visiting,
and just hope to find a safe place with a good connection to the airport ?
I can't show this post to my wife, as that region is so high on here wish list ;-)
Happy new year !
Hardmy
Member
Hi Bart, PM me should you one day find yourself around Frankfurt!
Although I enjoy every second of staying on board, I discovered thanks of the insistence of my wife that it would be a shame to confine ourselves to the shore. Of course I am anxious leaving the boat alone, but we’re away usually for a daytrip only. If not on anchor, I also ask the neighboring boats about their intentions and leave also my phone number just in case. Never did I have any problem.
And yes, it happens that I leave the boat unattended for some days/weeks but never without lazy lines. If it’s a marina, I feel confident. They always check your lines and would call you if there is any problem. I happened to be on the boat during the hurricane that hit S-Greece in autumn 2018 and witnessed how the marineros did their job seriously, also on unoccupied boats. Then you have the situation of semi-private quays / pontoons / clubs. In this case I need somebody I can really trust who lives there. But usually it’s not too difficult to establish good contacts with local people; sometimes it evolved to a friendship and we even invited them at home. But for complete peace of mind, I prefer to put the boat on the dry. This isn’t necessary expensive, especially during the high season.
Usually I try to plan things well in advance. This works quite well, because during the winter I visit the boat from time to time to carry out some works. I use this occasion to stop by car at the places where we want to go in the coming season. In Greece, emails do not work and the phone is not ideal. The best is really to go in person, and drink together a coffee. Should you want to come over with BA, I’d be more than happy to help you with your plans!
Nydri approach. As soon as the sun disappears, it gets suddenly colder
After having spent a very pleasant evening with our Greek friends, we fill the tanks to the brim with good diesel (always the same guy Eren from this parish and I do use) and leave the next morning for Preveza.
It’s always sad to finish a cruising season, but we have no bad conscience. The weather clearly tells us to return back to N-Europe, straight into the office!
Since I made good experience with Aktio Marina, it was a no-brainer to winter again in this place.
The map for 2017. Red = spring and yellow = autumn.
Quite an unspectacular 2017 cruising season end, so let’s draw some conclusions:
- After a couple of seasons in the Ionian where we nearly saw and did everything, it was time to do something else. It appears to have been the right decision!
- We didn’t expect too much from the Gulf of Corinth but it turned out to be a nice little cruising ground on its own. Of course the water is not as crystalline as on Antipaxos. There are many fish farms leading to an increase of jellyfish. Here and there, some ugly industries or careers disfigure the countryside. This makes it less popular for many. The pics speak for themselves; there are a couple of gems of coastal towns and a wonderful hinterland. Other towns which are not so pleasant to the eye compensate with good food and very welcoming people; this last point is important. I don’t know any other country, where locals are friendlier than in Greece. I’d love also to return there and explore the NE corner of the gulf or its southern side, especially the famous mountain railway climbing up the Kalavryta gorge. So if the lack of infrastructure (marinas, electricity, moorings, etc.) and for the raggies the W-wind blowing quite constantly directly on the nose when coming from Corinth does not put you off, it’s worth a try.
- Then I don’t need to emphasize about both Corinth canal passages. This is a highlight in a boater’s career and is a must do. Period.
- The actual reason why we did this trip was also to find out whether it would make sense one day to switch to the Aegean side. We can now tell for sure, that we truly enjoyed this “little Aegean apprenticeship”. Because of its proximity to Athens and being not too prone to strong Meltemi winds, the Argolic/Saronic area is quite popular. Greek people from Athens are seen a lot on week-ends; otherwise it’s a big mix of charters/flotillas/owners. But it’s a much more balanced mix than in the Ionian and there are also more options to escape the crowd, with the exception of course of Spetses and Hydra. But I have to stress, never did I encounter groups of drunken sailors causing mayhem in the harbor or inconsiderate people breaking the serenity of a quite anchorage with loud music. I also checked whether I could leave my boat at one of the yards in Kilada, but both are always fully booked. Says it all about the popularity of the area. But we’ll return for sure and push towards Navplion.
- Finally, I am repeating myself every year. With my mobo, I feel like an alien in Greece. It’s primarily raggie territory here. Sometimes I do wonder why (OK, not in the Cyclades for example). Sailors I encountered in the Ionian confessed to use their engine 2/3 of the time, or more? If I look around me, this shouldn’t be that far from the reality… The few other mobos I saw, were above 70’ and run by a professional crew. Only once did I meet a mobo run by its owner. Why?
Thanks for reading this story and stay tuned. I’ll write about our relocation in 2018 to the southern Peloponnese, which we really fell in love with!
Cheers,
Hardmy
P.S. I didn’t get subsidies from the Greek ministry of tourism
BartW
Well-known member
thanks again for this long nice and interesting report,
will defo get in touch in a few years when we navigate in that direction.
before I forget,
early in the week of PL&S, I'm a few day's in Frankfurt, see you there ?
(exact planning tbc)
will defo get in touch in a few years when we navigate in that direction.
before I forget,
early in the week of PL&S, I'm a few day's in Frankfurt, see you there ?
(exact planning tbc)
henryf
Well-known member
What a fantastic report.
Thanks for sharing, much appreciated.
Henry
Thanks for sharing, much appreciated.
Henry
MrB
Well-known member
That was a fantastic cruise report, I loved every second of it. It must have taken you ages to compile it and I cannot thank you enough, wonderful reading on a cold wet night in Blighty.:encouragement:
