scruff
Well-Known Member
You could always paint the anode*. I've heard that slows down corrosion of the anode. It may prove a little disengenious on the macro level though.
*not actually advisable
*not actually advisable
Zinc anode erosion
- Thread starter ianat182
- Start date
VicS
Well-Known Member
If yu get no ligts on the panel it indicates no power is reaching the panel.
Check the battery connections.
Check the connections on the isolator switch and the connections at the engine end , both positive and negative.
The blade fuse is in the positive line feeding the panel. you say you have checked that.
Check that you have power getting as far as the fuse ( use a bulb on a couple on leads not a digital voltmeter to test.
If no power there then go back to the engine end and check for power getting to the engine at the main battery connection on the starter solenoid.
If power getting to fuse Ok check the multipin connector and for power getting to the panel via the 2.5mm brown and white wire.
In view of the fact that most of what you have been doing involves the anode boding and the negative connections be sure to check the negative.
There are wiring diagrams for the panel and the engine in the owners manual which can be downloaded from the Beta website.
The engine stop operates by energizing a stop solenoid in the fuel system. You must have had power onto the panel Ok when you stopped the engine or it would not have stopped.
Check the battery connections.
Check the connections on the isolator switch and the connections at the engine end , both positive and negative.
The blade fuse is in the positive line feeding the panel. you say you have checked that.
Check that you have power getting as far as the fuse ( use a bulb on a couple on leads not a digital voltmeter to test.
If no power there then go back to the engine end and check for power getting to the engine at the main battery connection on the starter solenoid.
If power getting to fuse Ok check the multipin connector and for power getting to the panel via the 2.5mm brown and white wire.
In view of the fact that most of what you have been doing involves the anode boding and the negative connections be sure to check the negative.
There are wiring diagrams for the panel and the engine in the owners manual which can be downloaded from the Beta website.
The engine stop operates by energizing a stop solenoid in the fuel system. You must have had power onto the panel Ok when you stopped the engine or it would not have stopped.
ianat182
Well-Known Member
VicS
Thank you for those tips, they'll help us to check the whole of the system again; its looking like the -ve side of the power system may be the culprit. Thanks too for the pointer to the manual and wiring diagrams. We'll check all the fuses to switches and put a new bladed one where needed.
Thanks again.
ianat182
Thank you for those tips, they'll help us to check the whole of the system again; its looking like the -ve side of the power system may be the culprit. Thanks too for the pointer to the manual and wiring diagrams. We'll check all the fuses to switches and put a new bladed one where needed.
Thanks again.
ianat182
Tranona
Well-Known Member
From the way you describe the bonding of the anode, it is not doing anything. Keel does not need an anode - it is cast iron and not in contact with anything else. It may well rust - because it is iron in seawater, but an anode won't stop that. The water intake also is not in contact with any other metal (assuming that it has a plastic pipe to the water pump) and will be bronze or DZR so does not need anything. The anode is not connected to the engine, which in any case does not need an anode because it already has one in the heat exchanger.
The only thing that might possibly need an anode is the propeller and shaft - but as the anode is not connected to that it is not doing anything.
So, suggest you disconnect the whole lot. May not solve the lack of power to the engine, which should be independent of any anode bonding anyway.
The only thing that might possibly need an anode is the propeller and shaft - but as the anode is not connected to that it is not doing anything.
So, suggest you disconnect the whole lot. May not solve the lack of power to the engine, which should be independent of any anode bonding anyway.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
I said much the same as Tranona several posts back. Your anode is doing nothing for you.
It is quite common for anodes to be attached using mild steel bolts. The strap that is cast into the zinc is invariably mild steel also. The zinc protects the bolts when the boat is immersed but they rust in air.
It is quite common for anodes to be attached using mild steel bolts. The strap that is cast into the zinc is invariably mild steel also. The zinc protects the bolts when the boat is immersed but they rust in air.
ianat182
Well-Known Member
Yes Vyv, I take your point; mine was that mixing the metal bolts at each lug of the anode can't have been protecting the mild steel either, stainless being the more noble metal?
Thanks though.
Ian
Thanks though.
Ian