Z Spars Continuous Line Reefing?

[jollysailor17]

Hi
Has anyone used the Continuous Single Line Reefing System from ZSpars?
This is the one for two slab reefs with blocks sewn into the reef cringles and with the two lines run through sheaves and organiser back to the cockpit.
See link http://www.zsparsuk.com/slrboom.htm
I am thinking of fitting this system and would be very grateful for feedback.

 

[vyv_cox]

No, but I have been using the balance block one since long before Z-spars claimed it as theirs. Info about it on my website. It's very reliable and works well, especially if you use Dyneema and reduce the line diameter.

 

[JimC]

Yes, this is the system fitted as standard to my Hunter Channel 31, except that I only have the blocks sewn to the luff of the sail - on the leech the reefing lines just run through eyelets. Having seen the diagram I may experiment with shackling blocks to these eyelets to reduce the friction in the system which is considerable. It does work well though. I followed the advice in the Hunter's owners manual to mark the halyard at the points corresponding to the reefs. One then simply lets the halyard run through the clutch till it reaches the mark, stops it, then winches in the reefing line till the sail is down on the boom. The guide shown fitted to the mast near the gooseneck is to keep the tack of the reefed sail up to the mast.

 

[mattw]

Jeanneau use it on their Sun Odyssey yachts. It doesn't need blocks inside the boom so it can happily accommodate 3 reefs.

 

[jollysailor17]

Thanks. I understood that this system could only accommodate two reefs. Have you seen it with 3?

 

[JimC]

In the Z-Spars set-up on the Hunter there are 4 pulleys within the boom, one is needed for the clew outhaul / flattener, 2 are used for the first 2 reefs and the fourth can be used for a third reef. However the line-guide near the gooseneck only has holes for two ropes. On my boat I have a reefing line rigged for the third reef but this only pulls down the leech. I have to go to the mast and manually put the leech eyelet onto the reefing horn. Actually I haven't had to do this for real yet.

 

[davidwf]

Yes have it on my Beneteau works well, only slight problem I had was that the leech block on reef two kept twisting, changed the block for one I could lock to prevent the twist and its fine now.

Major tip, mark your hallyard so that you know how much to lower the sail before pulling in the reef, if you lower it too far you can damage the luff block, been there done that.

 

[vyv_cox]

Thanks. I understood that this system could only accommodate two reefs. Have you seen it with 3?

The balance block type can only accommodate two reefs because the boom is too short to take the clew line for the third. I can't see any reason why the continuous type shouldn't cope with a third reef and I have heard of owners who added the third reef using blocks on the outside of the boom where the first two were balance block type.

 

[flaming]

Thanks. I understood that this system could only accommodate two reefs. Have you seen it with 3?

Yes, have used it with 3.

The only drawback is the quite massive amount of rope you end up with in the cockpit with the third reef in, and the large amount of friction when shaking the reefs out.

 

[Phoenix of Hamble]

Agree with Flaming..... bleedin miles of rope in the cockpit, and a full hoist after having the third reef in is a PITA...but IMHO, they are small prices to pay for what overall makes life a whole load easier

 

[tross]

Oh! I think I am going to upset a few people with this.

At best it is a poor compromise, at worst is it a rubbish system. After struggling with in on my hunter I removed it and used the reefing horns.

First, if you have any friction in the tail end of the boom then you end up stretching the luff of the sail without pulling down on the leach reefing point.

Second you lose all control of the sail shape. Think about it! If you want a flatter sail to de-power it without having to put in another reef and being under powered, you pull down on the reefing line which should act a bit like a outhaul, However, with this system this also pulls on the luff which moves the depth and centre of effort forward, which in turns gives you lee helm and screws up your ability to point.

 

[tawhiri]

Single line reefing

I would have to say it is excellent for reefing short handed from the cockpit when things are getting tough. I pre-rig reef 1 on reef 3 position if I expect to need it. However shaking a reef out requires helping the kilometres of rope to run and it generally snags somewhere.

Andrew

 

[Phoenix of Hamble]

Tross, I think you make valid points from a performance perspective, but IMHO, as ever with boats, its a case of balancing ease of handling/management with performance, and for short handed crews especially those cruising leisurely, single line reefing is a real benefit.

 

[flaming]

I'm not one to tolerate poor sail trim / shape. And it is perfectly possible to get the single line reefing as described to work well. NOt racer well, but fast cruiser well. The key is in the setup, and you have to be very careful about your halyard. The key seems to be to let the halyard off to a known point and then wind in the reefing line. It seems to be best if this actually raises the boom slightly.

 

[tross]

Tross, I think you make valid points from a performance perspective, but IMHO, as ever with boats, its a case of balancing ease of handling/management with performance, and for short handed crews especially those cruising leisurely, single line reefing is a real benefit.

I take your point, and not wishing to start a post war but, the whole reason I ditched mine is the fact that I spend most of my time cruising single handed. Having a better balanced boat making good progress I feel is important as you have none, other than George the autopilot, to help out. Fighting a poorly balanced boat in a bit of a blow can be very tiring and demoralizing.