Yanmar Starter brushes

NickRobinson

NickRobinson

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Hi All-

I need new brushes for my Yanmar YSM (single pot, horizontal, 8hp.)

They are solid copper and need soldering or crimping in.

I discovered this at Fosdyke Bridge on Sunday, 25 miles from Gibraltar Point.:rolleyes:

1/ Any idea of a supplier?

2/ Anyone soldered the braided leads successfully and if so, tips please.

( I managed a short time 'get home' fix)

Thanks

Nick
 
+1 for the auto electrician, one did my starter and alternator up last spring. Dunno about your location, but there must be one locally.
 
NickRobinson said:
Hi All-

I need new brushes for my Yanmar YSM (single pot, horizontal, 8hp.)

They are solid copper and need soldering or crimping in.

I discovered this at Fosdyke Bridge on Sunday, 25 miles from Gibraltar Point.:rolleyes:

1/ Any idea of a supplier?

2/ Anyone soldered the braided leads successfully and if so, tips please.

( I managed a short time 'get home' fix)

Thanks

Nick
Click to expand...

Hi, The Yanmar starter motor brushes will not be solid copper but a mixture of sintered carbon and copper. It can be a tricky job to solder wires into new brushes.It may pay to take an old brush to an auto electrical specialist and try to get some a little larger,with wires attatched.It is not too hard to rub them down using abrasive paper and a flat surface untill they are the size you need. Good luck.
 
Thanks all-

|'ve found some parts codes on line for starters, including the Yanmar price ....

(where's my pound sign Mr Gates?-) gottit.. £465.00 only three times the Hitachi/Lucas price :eek::eek:

Nick
 
Update-

I rang local auto electricians starting with the nearest (about a mile away).

I got past the reception and got to speak to the workshop. He took my serial numbers and mobile and rang me back within the promised 5 minutes to say he'd found 5 sets in Chesterfield, did I want him to get some?

I asked about prices and he said (wait for it...) £5.00, but there'll be postage, could be another £2.50....:rolleyes:

To solder them in would bring the price UP to £20 'with the Vat on....'

I didn't bother shopping around.

Motor dropped off, I'll let you know...

Nick
 
Outcome-

NickRobinson said:
I rang local auto electricians starting with the nearest (about a mile away).

I got past the reception and got to speak to the workshop. He took my serial numbers and mobile and rang me back within the promised 5 minutes to say he'd found 5 sets in Chesterfield, did I want him to get some?

I asked about prices and he said (wait for it...) £5.00, but there'll be postage, could be another £2.50....:rolleyes:

To solder them in would bring the price UP to £20 'with the Vat on....'

I didn't bother shopping around.

Motor dropped off, I'll let you know...

Nick
Click to expand...

Hi- the update.

I got a call today, 'your motor's ready for collection, we got the price wrong, it's £1 extra'.... ! This took less than 24 hrs including them getting the bits posted. That included them double checking the actual numbers on the casing, the web ser nos were not correct.

Job included degrease and test. £21.01:)

Auto Electrical Ltd
Boardman Industrial Estate, Swadlincote, Derbyshire DE11 9DL
01283 214493 ‎

A long way from the sea, though they do lots of canal boats, and no w/site:eek:

No connection etc.... recommended.

Nick
 
Soldering Starter Motor Brushes

VicS said:
A local auto mobile electrician may be able to help.

When soldering cleanliness is of paramount importance
I always use a non corrosive flux even if using cored solder
Adequate heat ... don't try using a tiddly little soldering iron.
Click to expand...

Please be warned however that too much cleanliness is a very bad thing and if you get brushes that are freshly made the copper may be far too clean. Here is an idea, dip the parts of the brush leads that you wish to solder in candle wax then bury the brushes in the garden for about a week. The idea is to get the part of the lead that you don't want soldered slightly oxidised. If you don't do this it is likely that the solder will run right up the lead just like solder wick. Brushes ruined in seconds. There are chemicals that will blacken copper, liver of sulphur is one, however for the tiny amount that is needed for such a job dissolving a few match heads might do. It is extremely annoying when things go wrong after a LOT of legwork getting the parts. When a 200 watt soldering iron was used the solder 60 tin/40 lead ran right up to the carbon in a flash - job ruined and time and money wasted. You would think that the brush manufacturer would treat the pigtails to stop them doing this but they don't! Another way is to use a wiping type of solder with high lead content as these don't run like 60/40. Good luck!
 
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