Slinky Spring
Well-Known Member
Does anyone have experience of freeing an injector that appears to be rusted into the head. This is apparently a common problem. Can it be sorted?
Yanmar 1gm10 injector rusted in
- Thread starter Slinky Spring
- Start date
warrenmarkus1
Well-Known Member
Asuming your injectors are the vertical type where the feedpipe connects at the top like on my Volvo penta, then simply find (or make)a slide hammer with a bit of weight, and weld on a old fuel pipe union onto the rod of the slide hammer. Keep it perpendicular to the head, and a couple of whacks and mine came out in seconds!! I put a o ring at the top and lots of grease to make it easier to come out the next time round. Water getting in between the copper injector sleeve and the steel injector over many years made the injector really hard to remove.
Slinky Spring
Well-Known Member
Thanks
You assume I know what a slide hammer is and how to weld. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
A little research and I now know what one is and can now find a man who can. Thanks for the advice.
You assume I know what a slide hammer is and how to weld. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
A little research and I now know what one is and can now find a man who can. Thanks for the advice.
moondancer
Well-Known Member
I guess you should read this thread in conjunction with the other one on the working life of a 1GM10.
ParaHandy
Well-Known Member
First, give it a light tapping with a hammer using a piece of wood to protect the injector and loosen it.
remove the collar which retains the injector, turn it over and fit a big 1" washer inside the collar with the M8 nuts on the studs and clamp it with the union nut, and use it as an extractor by unscrewing the M8 nuts on the studs. You need to turn the collar otherwise there's not enough thread on the studs to extract it.
the injector was US though; the rust had corroded the gubbins inside. I could have hammered the sh*t out of it and shifted it that way if i'd known ....
remove the collar which retains the injector, turn it over and fit a big 1" washer inside the collar with the M8 nuts on the studs and clamp it with the union nut, and use it as an extractor by unscrewing the M8 nuts on the studs. You need to turn the collar otherwise there's not enough thread on the studs to extract it.
the injector was US though; the rust had corroded the gubbins inside. I could have hammered the sh*t out of it and shifted it that way if i'd known ....
boatmike
Well-Known Member
Absolutely correct. I have one that I made in my apprenticeship ( I am now retired!) It has done stirling service and removed many stubborn injectors that refused to come out any other way. Mine however has a series of collars which fit the OD of the injector top as well to stop any sideways stress on the male (or female) thread. I think it is important that you ensure that you pull straight as the thread was not really meant to take punishment. Also it should only be necessary to tap it not whack it! It sometimes helps to get the engine hot before you try. One other tip is to back off the nuts on the retaining clamp a couple of turns (no more or the injector can become a missile!) and give the engine a burst of throttle.
Gunfleet
Well-Known Member
For your next trick Dougie, can you explain how to get the nuts under the bearers and onto the threads on engine mountings. My fingers only have the usual numbers of joints in them.
2Tizwoz
Well-Known Member
You can make up a 'slide hammer' of a sort using a piece of screwed rod for the slide and a piece of appropriately heavy scrap for the hammer.