Yanmar 1GM10 Injection pump

[monkfish24]

I've tried googling but to no avail....

Does anyone know where I can get a spares kit to rebuild a defective HP fuel pump?

Alternativly, what is the land based/agricultural derivative of this engine? I will probably more succesfull talking to a Agricultural engineers.

 

[Topcat47]

I had mine done by Panda, a specialist firm in Fareham. There must be someone closer to you that does this sort of thing. Yanmar will sell you a replacement for megabucks, but I got the pump and injector serviced for around £60.00 each, admittedly no parts other than "o" rings and washers were needed, but it was done under "clean" conditions and SWMBO wouldn't let me do mine in the kitchen. They also had the kit needed to test them, which I don't. Don't forget the pump has a shim under the body, between it and the governor casing that determines the timing. Mine we almost completely shot, but I recovered enough to mic and have rebuilt my engine after a top end overhaul using the closest size from the Yanmar shim package.

I also forgot the valve caps that go on the stems after you've popped the collets back. This leads to the decompressor not working.

 

[Ubergeekian]

Does anyone know where I can get a spares kit to rebuild a defective HP fuel pump?

Alternativly, what is the land based/agricultural derivative of this engine? I will probably more succesfull talking to a Agricultural engineers.

The 1GM10 is a wholly home-grown Yanmar engine, so there is no based version. That means you are stuck with Mr Yanmar's prices, I'm afraid. I've just had my 1GM10 injector (not pump) rebuilt by an injector specialist for £25.

 

[Bilgediver]

I've tried googling but to no avail....

Does anyone know where I can get a spares kit to rebuild a defective HP fuel pump?

Alternativly, what is the land based/agricultural derivative of this engine? I will probably more succesfull talking to a Agricultural engineers.

Rebuilding fuel pumps is best left to those who understand them , have the clean environment to do the work and have the test kit to calibrate them when finished. The only work you should even consider doing is to have a peek at the delivery valve to check it is not the problem. The pump itself is highly unlikely to be the problem unless it has swallowed something that disagreed with it and scored the plunger and barrel.

What problem do you have that leads to this question.?

Diesel equipment specialists will be shown in your yellow pages and be able to do the work.

If the pump is rebuilt with new components then it may be necessary to retime it by changing the shim pack!!!!

 

[monkfish24]

Rebuilding fuel pumps is best left to those who understand them , have the clean environment to do the work and have the test kit to calibrate them when finished. The only work you should even consider doing is to have a peek at the delivery valve to check it is not the problem. The pump itself is highly unlikely to be the problem unless it has swallowed something that disagreed with it and scored the plunger and barrel.

What problem do you have that leads to this question.?

Diesel equipment specialists will be shown in your yellow pages and be able to do the work.

If the pump is rebuilt with new components then it may be necessary to retime it by changing the shim pack!!!!

Basically, the engine has been left for up to 6 years, it turns over freely, runs on a squirt of easy start but there is no mist coming from the injector. The injector has been tested and is servicable. The feed pump works fine manually and when being turned over. The injection pump does not give any pressure when the engine is being turned over.

Fresh fuel, new filters etc all fitted.

 

[david_bagshaw]

Basically, the engine has been left for up to 6 years, it turns over freely, runs on a squirt of easy start but there is no mist coming from the injector. The injector has been tested and is servicable. The feed pump works fine manually and when being turned over. The injection pump does not give any pressure when the engine is being turned over.

Fresh fuel, new filters etc all fitted.

I would look at the fuel rack, being stuck in the stop position, or a fuel solenoid allowing full fuel when it should only let a bleed through, such as used by some faryman engines, even a stuck hp pump plunger.

 

[monkfish24]

I would look at the fuel rack, being stuck in the stop position, or a fuel solenoid allowing full fuel when it should only let a bleed through, such as used by some faryman engines, even a stuck hp pump plunger.

I checked the fuel stop lever inside the timing gear box. The fuel flow doesn't look to be enough as I ran it with the fuel line to the injector disconnected from the injection pump. There was only a little trickle of fuel at very low pressure.

 

[misterg]

Fresh fuel, new filters etc all fitted.

What about bleeding thoroughly? At the fuel filter, the injector pump inlet & the injector union using the the lift pump - until clean, bubble-free diesel streams out for ~30 seconds before moving to the next point (tighten up bleed screw whilst diesel is still flowing). Final bleeding with the injector union 'cracked' whilst cranking. (Sorry if this is granny/egg sucking, but you never know )

I don't know whether you should expect much more than a trickle from the HP pump. It takes a long time to fill the injector pipe if you've had it off.

If it is the pump, a lot of small construction plant uses Yanmar engines which may/may not share parts.

Andy

 

[david_bagshaw]

I checked the fuel stop lever inside the timing gear box. The fuel flow doesn't look to be enough as I ran it with the fuel line to the injector disconnected from the injection pump. There was only a little trickle of fuel at very low pressure.

connect injector pipe to hp pump & crank till fuel comes out the end then bolt injector to the end.
NOW BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY SKIN ANY WHERE NEAR NOZZLE WHILE CRANKING ENGINE (apparently used as a death squad method by the SS)

you should see atomised fuel from the injector tip. along with the creaking noise injection pumps make on delivery

the normal dispensed volumes are very small, and it is hard for the pump to overcome the air volume in the pipe, without this type of priming.

It would be very low pressure until constrained by the injector nozzle, think running garden hose, then put on the spray head, & turn down till you get the mist.

 

[Bilgediver]

I checked the fuel stop lever inside the timing gear box. The fuel flow doesn't look to be enough as I ran it with the fuel line to the injector disconnected from the injection pump. There was only a little trickle of fuel at very low pressure.

Was it a constant trickle or was it small spurts?????

If a constant small trickle this could indicate the pump rack is stuck in zero delivery and you are seeing fuel pressure from the priming pump finding its way through the pump. If in spurts than the pump is not stuck and maybe as the other fella said you just need to connect up the injector. There is only high pressure when the pump has to deliver through the injector holes which are very very Wee....If a big hole then no pressure.

 

[monkfish24]

connect injector pipe to hp pump & crank till fuel comes out the end then bolt injector to the end.
NOW BE CAREFUL NOT TO GET ANY SKIN ANY WHERE NEAR NOZZLE WHILE CRANKING ENGINE (apparently used as a death squad method by the SS)

you should see atomised fuel from the injector tip. along with the creaking noise injection pumps make on delivery

the normal dispensed volumes are very small, and it is hard for the pump to overcome the air volume in the pipe, without this type of priming.

It would be very low pressure until constrained by the injector nozzle, think running garden hose, then put on the spray head, & turn down till you get the mist.

I can assure you that high pressure fuel is not good for your skin.

I've seen what happens to the skin of a hand after being injected with 3000psi of hydraulic fluid, caused by a small pin prick hole in a hyd pipe! not very nice, the skin slowly dies off, following the tracks of the blood vessels

I tried this very early on in the process, bled through completly from the primary filter, feed pump, secondary filter through to the injector. I'm still pretty sure it's the pump but I will give it another go tomorrow, see if we can get some life in this engine.

Fingers crossed people!

 

[Bilgediver]

I can assure you that high pressure fuel is not good for your skin.

I've seen what happens to the skin of a hand after being injected with 3000psi of hydraulic fluid, caused by a small pin prick hole in a hyd pipe! not very nice, the skin slowly dies off, following the tracks of the blood vessels

I tried this very early on in the process, bled through completly from the primary filter, feed pump, secondary filter through to the injector. I'm still pretty sure it's the pump but I will give it another go tomorrow, see if we can get some life in this engine.

Fingers crossed people!

I had a look at one of these engines. The pump is a bog standard Bosch. You can see the rack by looking through the oil filler hole. You might need a mirror.

You also would see the rack if you removed the stop lever flange.

A stuck rack would produce the symptoms you describe.

 

[steve28]

how clean was the fuel when you started ?

it would be worth running some petrol through with some redex, let it sit overnight. then purge it out with diesel and try again. It does help if you slacken the top nut off under the high pressure pipe.

If you need to rebuild it the gm parts are all interchangable i.e you can use pump parts from a 2gm20 or 3gm30


Steve