Yanmar 1gm10 - engine oil change mod

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coaster63

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Yanmar 1gm10 - engine oil change mod, I've never been happy with the extractor method of removing oil ,ends up messy & not convincing all out , I have on occasion used the removal of the plug holding the pickup strainer that also can be messy as it squirts towards you followed by the strainer .so this layup I've opted for a mod having removed the sump anyway for a proper clean out (luckily long keel so plenty of room ) I've added to the sump what I had surplus anyway to fashion a sump drain
an angle grinder disk nut (you'l now what it is in pics) with 14 mm bolt & sealing washer for draining , so no welding /tapping to do, 4 small 4mm holes +15mm hole ,30mins sorted.

pics -- https://flic.kr/s/aHsm8v9Cxd
 
On one of my boats, I drilled and tapped one of those round bosses in the sump M6.
On that boat, it was fairly easy to take the sump off for a good clean.
That was before I owned a Pela.
What you've done is another option, it would also work in a sump of thinner metal, where tapping was not possible.
 
Did you seal between the disk nut and the sump case? There is a chance there will be a slight gap where oil will run down the threads of the bolt and into that gap
 
Hi your right, I should have said in first post what i sealed with was hylomar plus 25mm x 1.5 o ring to stop it squidgeing all the sealant out ,checked as you say with diesel . all good on the bench.
 
Looks good. If access underneath is sufficient to allow a catch tray, a sensible solution. However, Sod's Law dictates that sooner or later the tray will slither into the bilge if that's even remotely possible, so perhaps consider some contrivance to make it impossible.

Is that a nylon washer? Although tolerant of most oils, they have a bit of a dodgy reputation for cracking and/or deforming on sump plugs. Something like a fibre or Doughty washer might be better.
 
Both the 1GM10's I have been intimatly involved with have had too little space underneath to position and remove a drain pan.

I am surprised you have reservations about removing the oil through the dipstick hole. I have a pro extractor-6 litre capacity-and it removes the oil as well as by draining it, as long as the oil is hot.

My Yanmar takes 5 litres plus the filter, thats what comes out, measured with the lines on the extractor.

Usefull to be able to get the sump off though-our NZ boat has a Bukh DV20, fitted high up. Last year I stripped the engine right down-pulled the rods and pistons-to free stuck rings.

For your ease of servicing, a good mod. Perhaps write it up for PBO-I got a couple of £25.00 cheques some years ago for a couple practical tips I sent in!
 
rotrax said:
Both the 1GM10's I have been intimatly involved with have had too little space underneath to position and remove a drain pan.
Click to expand...

Mine had a drain plug - well, I assume it was a drain plug - on the rear face of the sump, low down. I never used it, because although it would have been possible to get a shallow pan under it, I always forgot to take one along. I did think about converting it to a banjo plus pump, à la Nanni/Beta, but sold the engine before getting round to it.
 
JumbleDuck said:
What is it? Something not drain-pluggy? I can't see it on any pictures of 1GM10 sumps.
Click to expand...

If you look at the link in the OP to the OP's sump you can just about see that the plug holds in place a coarse filter which runs right across the sump and is held in place by a spring at the opposite end to the plug. When you take the plug out the filter can apparently move slightly out of line under the pressure of the spring and it then either blocks the plug going back in or moves so far out of line that you can get the plug back in but the filter is then effectively out of the oil circuit and ends up rolling around in the bottom of the sump. :ambivalence:

Richard
 
RichardS said:
If you look at the link in the OP to the OP's sump you can just about see that the plug holds in place a coarse filter which runs right across the sump and is held in place by a spring at the opposite end to the plug. When you take the plug out the filter can apparently move slightly out of line under the pressure of the spring and it then either blocks the plug going back in or moves so far out of line that you can get the plug back in but the filter is then effectively out of the oil circuit and ends up rolling around in the bottom of the sump.
Click to expand...

Oo-er. I dodged a bullet there, then. And even if I had managed, what's the point of sucking out the old oil through a strainer and leaving the crud behind?
 
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