yanmar 1gm10 - engine & gear oil change

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fjweaver

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I'm planning to service the engine myself this year for the first time using one of the basic service kits.

The engine oil change seems fairly straight forward - I'm going to get one of the Pela 6000 extractors and get the oil out via the dipstick hole.

But what about the gear oil? Do I extract the oil or drain it? I've seen some previous post where there's some doubt about draining.

Also I believe that the engine & gear oil is the same. Any recommendations?

Any other advice/experience from servicing would be very welcome too

many thanks - Frank

(Hunter Ranger 265)
 
Hi fjw
The engine oil and gearbox oil are not quite the same.
For the engine use API Classification CD
SAE Viscosity 15W40 (ie a multigrade)
For the gearbox oil use API Classification CD
SAE Viscosity 30 (ie a straight 30)
However , you may be able to get an oil that does both.
I change the engine oil every year
But not the gearbox oil
The data I have says (for the gearbox)
First time 50 hrs , second time 250 hrs , 1000hrs thereafter
So depending on how many hrs you have done you may just need to check the level.

I use a simple brass double acting pump to suck the oil out via the dipstick (warm the engine up a bit first to make it easier)

You should have a new oil filter in your kit. Remove the old one by using a chain type tool or (as I do) use a lrge screwdriver to tap the flange round with a good monkey hammer till it comes off (unscrews anticlockwise)
They are , I am afraid , cunningly designed to spill oil all over the place so have a tray ready under it.
You may find your new oil filter is smaller than the one you take of , this is OK.
Always change the water pump impellor at the same time (ie at least every year)
I always change the fuel filter as well.
This involves bleeding the fuel system afterwards.

It all straighforward stuff
PM me if you want further information.

The price of having your service done by the mareina or the yard is silly , so there is money to be saved for a small risk.
 
i'm planning a cross channel in the summer so wanted to do things properly. I'm not sure how many hours the engine has done since the last gear oil change - if it's a case of extracting it via the dipstick i'd do it anyway
 
I use the same diesel multigrade 15/40 for the engine and the gearbox (cheap Tesco stuff). 1.3 litres for the engine and 0.3 litres for the gearbox. The Pela vacuum pump makes it very easy. To change the oil filter I use a big piece of absorbent rag wedged in and around the filter to soak up the inevitable drips, and have an old bucket handy to drop the filter in as it is full of old oil. A chain or strap wrench to remove it is much cleaner than stabbing it with a screwdriver! To refit the filter screw it on and tighten it by hand, not with a wrench, and smear a bit of oil on the rubber seal first. When you refill with new oil, pour the correct amount into a measuring jug first so you don't overfill. I'd say 'good luck' but the job is so simple you don't need it!
 
I dont see a problem sucking the oil from the gearbox..in fact i just did it myself...using the pela 6 litre as yourself
 
Just make sure you get a simple (and cheap) Mineral oil. Not a synthetic or semi-synthetic, as these are designed for modern automtive deisels. It really does matter as the Yanmar runs a lot cooler than a car and the synthetic addatives encourage bore glazing at lower temperatures.
 
All good advice. Lawn Mower engine oil is a good way to source SAE 30 oil for the gearbox. Go easy on the quanity ... I think you will find you find 0.2 - 0.25 l will see it back on the level mark.
 
Old thread but relevant as most will be servicing their engines now. Tesco do 4l of 15W50 mineral oil for £10.50 at the moment. Ideal for these little engines. B&Q SAE 30 lanwmower oil is £8 for a 1l
 
Last edited:
fastjedi said:
All good advice. Lawn Mower engine oil is a good way to source SAE 30 oil for the gearbox. Go easy on the quanity ... I think you will find you find 0.2 - 0.25 l will see it back on the level mark.
Click to expand...

The manual for my 1GM10 specified API-CB or API-CC oil (good luck finding that) for the engine, with the following viscosity table

Yanmar%20engine%20oil.png


with exactly the same for the gearbox

Yanmar%20gearbox%20oil.png


I found that a semi-synthetic caused horrible oil use (top up needed every hour or so), a 15W-40 CF from Lidl improved things a bit (top-up every three hours) and some 15W-40 CD from eBay got things back almost to normal (top-up every 12 - 15 hours).

The Yanmar branded stuff is 15W-40 CF-4.
 
API CC 15w-40 is easy to buy, many canal boats seem to use it. I buy mine from Morris Lubricants and use it in my BMC 2.2 diesel.

A Pela 6000 is a big device for a small engine. I use one for the BMC, which has quite a large sump capacity, but for my Yanmar 3GM30F I use the 2000, just big enough for engine and gearbox and smaller to stow.
 
See if you can find out what should really be put into the gear box. Lots of old engine manuals available from time to time on the internet - if you find yours make sure you download it in case the website goes offline.

Mine specified Dexron II (and listed alternatives). I thought it was obsolete but turned out to be quite easy to find on Amazon.

Getting the drain plug open is an on-going project, but I'm optimistic about plan C.
 
You mention engine oil, gear box oil, oil filters and someone mentioned impeller. You should check and change the internal anode also if necessary, and don't forget to inspect the exhaust elbow internals.
 
How do you buy from Morris Oils, Vyv? Last time I tried to buy from their depot, they would only sell me large quantities.
vyv_cox said:
API CC 15w-40 is easy to buy, many canal boats seem to use it. I buy mine from Morris Lubricants and use it in my BMC 2.2 diesel.

A Pela 6000 is a big device for a small engine. I use one for the BMC, which has quite a large sump capacity, but for my Yanmar 3GM30F I use the 2000, just big enough for engine and gearbox and smaller to stow.
Click to expand...
 
FWIW I use an incontinence pad under the oil filter to catch the oil which inevitably escapes then wrap the filter up for disposal!

Cheap as well!

Tony.
 
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