Yamaha Malta 3.5 2stroke seized Shaft

PlankWalker

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My fairly new to me Yamaha Malta stopped pumping water, so I took it home, ordered a new impeller, and thought this should be an easy fix!
The impeller arrived, I disconnected the drive linkage, undid bolts between leg and prop assembly, expecting the prop assembly and shaft to pull out of the Leg.
No way it remained firmly stuck, after hammering in wedges and screw drivers and damaging the paintwork, I got about 1mm gap between prop assembly and leg.
I assumed the end of the drive shaft was seized into engine so I up ended the motor and poured a quart of petrol and 2stroke oil into the leg and left to soak.
3 weeks later I'm hammering in screw drivers again to no avail. What can I do Next!
 
Have you undone the gearbox linkage under the rubber bung on the leg ?

Have you removed all the bolts ? There is one that holds the anode in place.

If yes to this, it is likely that the leg has never been removed and the splines 'rusted' in. Personally I've never had this problem on my 2 malta's so presently can't offer much advice.
 
My fairly new to me Yamaha Malta stopped pumping water, so I took it home, ordered a new impeller, and thought this should be an easy fix!
The impeller arrived, I disconnected the drive linkage, undid bolts between leg and prop assembly, expecting the prop assembly and shaft to pull out of the Leg.
No way it remained firmly stuck, after hammering in wedges and screw drivers and damaging the paintwork, I got about 1mm gap between prop assembly and leg.
I assumed the end of the drive shaft was seized into engine so I up ended the motor and poured a quart of petrol and 2stroke oil into the leg and left to soak.
3 weeks later I'm hammering in screw drivers again to no avail. What can I do Next!
I assume you mean "gear shift linkage" where you say " drive linkage" ??

I think there is an inner housing so pouring anything into the leg may not have reached where you wanted it to. In any case there is a seal which will have stopped it, not that petrol and oil mixture will be as effective as a good penetrating oil such as PlusGas.

If you can see the drive shaft itself through the hole where you disconnect the shift rods try dribbling some proper penetrating oil down it and let it soak for a good long while.
I'm not hopeful because of the seal, but if the seal is in good condition it should not have allowed water to get at the joint between drive shaft and crankshaft. Maybe if the release oil gets past the seal it'll free it up.

Note what Boathook says about the bolt that holds the anode. There are 4 to remove including this one.
 
I assume you mean "gear shift linkage" where you say " drive linkage" ??

I think there is an inner housing so pouring anything into the leg may not have reached where you wanted it to. In any case there is a seal which will have stopped it, not that petrol and oil mixture will be as effective as a good penetrating oil such as PlusGas.

If you can see the drive shaft itself through the hole where you disconnect the shift rods try dribbling some proper penetrating oil down it and let it soak for a good long while.
I'm not hopeful because of the seal, but if the seal is in good condition it should not have allowed water to get at the joint between drive shaft and crankshaft. Maybe if the release oil gets past the seal it'll free it up.

Note what Boathook says about the bolt that holds the anode. There are 4 to remove including this one.
I've never noticed a seal on the drive shaft where it enters the spline on either of mine. Having the engine upside down and dribbling the oil down is about the only way. There is no real way of getting at the spline without removing the gearbox. Normally it is the bolts holding gearbox to the leg that are a problem so I do wonder whether the OP has missed one, possibly the anode.
 
I've never noticed a seal on the drive shaft where it enters the spline on either of mine. Having the engine upside down and dribbling the oil down is about the only way. There is no real way of getting at the spline without removing the gearbox. Normally it is the bolts holding gearbox to the leg that are a problem so I do wonder whether the OP has missed one, possibly the anode.
ITYWF there are two seals up there. One around the crankshaft and the other around the drive shaft but you won't come across them unless you remove the power head from the "leg" and then remove the seal housing from the power head. The one around the drive shaft should prevent water getting at the spline and will frustrate attempts to get penetrating oil to the spline
 
Ive checked all the bolts again the anodes off , the gear shift linkage disconnected, it should just pull out.
I'l get some more plus gas and try Vics dribble down the shaft idea, I can see the shaft through the rubber bung hole.
Failing all that I may have to resort to a little violence.
Incidentally Vic I'm sure we know each other, I'm the big guy you did your Yacht Masters with 40+ years ago before you moved east.
 
Drain gear oil remove the circlip from the bottom.of the driveshaft. With a bit of persuasion the gearbox will come off leaving the driveshaft still in the crank.
Then remove the powerhead from the leg. You will then be able to see the bottom of the shaft where its stuck in the crank and should be easier to remove
 
Ive checked all the bolts again the anodes off , the gear shift linkage disconnected, it should just pull out.
I'l get some more plus gas and try Vics dribble down the shaft idea, I can see the shaft through the rubber bung hole.
Failing all that I may have to resort to a little violence.
Incidentally Vic I'm sure we know each other, I'm the big guy you did your Yacht Masters with 40+ years ago before you moved east.
National Sailing centre, Westerly Fulmar named Rigel

Posttdeleted

Yes I know you. YM theory course not practical course

Reference to Windtracker identified you.

We sailed to the Isles of Scilly together

Last met at a mutual friends funeral.
 
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Drain gear oil remove the circlip from the bottom.of the driveshaft. With a bit of persuasion the gearbox will come off leaving the driveshaft still in the crank.
Then remove the powerhead from the leg. You will then be able to see the bottom of the shaft where its stuck in the crank and should be easier to remove

The impeller drive pin will probably wreck the housing on the way .
 
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