Yamaha F4 Outboard Wash Screw

[Ian_Rob]

There is a screw at the bottom of the leg that can be removed to attach a hose for flushing. Try as I may with a 12 x 250 flat headed screwdriver I can't loosen it. Any obvious solution?

 

[prv]

Plus gas?

(If the screw is painted over, you should probably scratch away the paint round the join to allow it to penetrate.)

Pete

 

[Lakesailor]

Just run it it a wheely bin of fresh water.

If the screw has never been removed it will probably be corroded in. Do you have an adaptor to attach the hose?

 

[VicS]

There is a screw at the bottom of the leg that can be removed to attach a hose for flushing. Try as I may with a 12 x 250 flat headed screwdriver I can't loosen it. Any obvious solution?

Impact driver ??

 

[Lakesailor]

Alloy casting?

 

[VicS]

Just run it it a wheely bin.

Not without its drawbacks

 

[Ian_Rob]

I have always run the engine in a dustbin at the end of the season but I would like to have been able to flush it whilst on board using an adapter I have bought. There is absolutely no outward sign of corrosion on the screw and I think it was just over tightened when first fitted.

Curiously, I had to have a helicoid insert put into the the oil drain plug at the bottom of the sump as it had been previously over-torqued.

Setting aside paint damage which I could make good, would applying heat work or be a complete no no?

 

[VicS]

Alloy casting?

With care not a huge sledge hammer. Often recommended for the gearcase oil screws

 

[Ian_Rob]

PS I have tried WD40. Is Plus Gas better?

 

[VicS]

PS I have tied WD40. Is Plus Gas better?

Probably. WD 40 is not primarily a release oil

 

[Lakesailor]

I often find that a screwdriver bit from an impact driver in a small socket allows you to apply direct pressure into the slot and strong turning effort by using a decent long socket wrench.
I have a 3/8" drive wrench about 12" long which usually seems to do the trick.

 

[Ian_Rob]

Thank you. I'll give it a try with some Plus Gas.