Would you fill a hole below water line with this?

yachtorion

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Job's done so will be what will be - hope you stayed afloat...

Out of curiosity though, if the problem was the the fitting was leaking why did your friend not just remove/re-seal/re-fit? Couple of quid of sealant...
 

ghostlymoron

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Job's done so will be what will be - hope you stayed afloat...

Out of curiosity though, if the problem was the the fitting was leaking why did your friend not just remove/re-seal/re-fit? Couple of quid of sealant...
The fitting had been replaced once and had leaked. What were the chances of a replacement leaking again? Thanks boat was at the yard waiting to be launched. I suggested there was no possibility of a proper repair leaking - it was then the P40 appeared!
 

ghostlymoron

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Tried explaining that to my pal but it developed into a shouting match so the topic is no longer discussed. My view is clear - do a repair as in the West's manual, it's quick, easy and strong. But for some reason he won't. This surprised me because he's a good clock restorer by profession.
 

lw395

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The sensible thing to have done would be to whack it with a pit prop when he wasn't looking.
If the hole was clean and the area around it inside abraded, it will be fine.

People who make things fail to stick will probably make a cods of following the WEST manual too, and have a bigger hole in their boat to show for it.
 

eilerts

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Some month ago we used a similar compound as David's isopon P40 to close off holes in the super structure of a boat. For the larger holes (about 2") it developed a crack around the circumference due to shrinkage. No big deal as the plan was to back it with a couple of layers with CSM. I would not do it this way under the waterline.

I think it is a good thing to remove things that are out of use in a boat - in this case the hull fitting.
It is also my philosophy to do things properly - i.e. do a repair you can forget about, not worry about.
But I also agree that the hull is not weakened in this case with less than 1:12 bevel and single laminate. A quick and easy way is to clean up the hole to you see clean GRP, cover one side with cardboard or plastic, and fill it with glass fibre filler. When it is hard, grind the outside and surrounding GRP to the depth that 2-3 layers og CSM can be applied. Do the same on the inside.

Hopefully the one layer og glass will keep the filler in place. Good now is that if the boat starts to take water, you need not run around looking for the leak!:encouragement:

Jan
 
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