Wortham Blake cutting out

[sheepmonkey]

I have just purchased my first boat, a 1974 Eastwood with a Wortham Blake (Ford Anglia/Cortina) marine engine. On our maiden voyage this weekend we were chugging happily upstream for about 1.5 hours. Coming up to a lock I dropped the revs down and the engine then proceeded to do a couple of splutters and then stop. Loads of power in the battery and the engine was turning over but not firing. After about 5 mins drifting, turned the key and it started. Got through the lock, moored for lunch before attempting the return journey. No issue at all and engine was running fine apart from that one moment. What could it be?

Upon starting there was a cloud of grey smoke but I guess thats normal after trying to turn the engine over a few times.

I have seen reference to coils overheating on other threads. Could that be it? Previous owner had just sound insulated the enclosure so not a lot of ventilation?

While we are at it. Any reason why a bit of reverse/forward manoeuvring onto a mooring would produce an oily film on the water behind the boat?

 

[david_bagshaw]

Coming up to a lock I dropped the revs down and the engine then proceeded to do a couple of splutters and then stop.
The splutters suggest fuel starvation. was it a cold damp day? may be carb icing, as engines of this era had simple carburettors. usually thaws quicker than 5 mins though.
Upon starting there was a cloud of grey smoke but I guess thats normal after trying to turn the engine over a few times.yes

I have had coil overheating once with a mini, where the resistor went wrong, but it melted the heel of the points, so the engine did not restart.

Normal coil failures lead to a dead stop, not with spluttering.

Others might disagree.

 

[volvopaul]

The oil sounds like worn valve guides or valve stem seals that have gone hard over the years and stopped working, maybe the plugs have oiled up too, I used to rally with ford x flows years ago, great engine for its purpose, if yours is a pre Xflow the exhaust can overheat the inlet manifold which causes the inlet mixture to vaporise before it hits the cylinders.

Next thing to look at is the points gap, rotor arm and distributor for corrosion on the cap.

Plenty to go at there, id also take the top off the carb and check the float level.

We all moan about modern engines but most of the items ive just listed dont appear anymore in engine maintainance, these days.

One thing you have not mentioned is the fuel, remember these engines wont run properly on unleaded petrol without adjustments and lead replacement in the fuel to protect the valve seats from premature wear.

 

[shaxi]

Normal coil failures lead to a dead stop, not with spluttering.

some exact examples ? i 'd want to konw more, it seem like a new question i want to know !

 

[steadyeddy]

Wrothan Blake cutting out.

Check for the terminals on the coil as some times the rivets can work loose and cause a resistance to cut the engine out.It might be a good idea to service the distributor by fitting new contact breaker points condenser and rotor arm.,check the distributor cap insidefor cracks and worn out carbon brush,hope this helps.

 

[PCUK]

So to summarise - give it a bloody good service!
Whatever it is, it is a minor fault and once found should not reappear.

 

[sheepmonkey]

thanks for the responses. Parts are now ordered as none of the components look particularly new so hopefully that should resolve things. Can't hurt at all.

While I am at it I was planning to stick some redex in the fuel. As I already use Castrol Valvemaster (lead replacement additive) would that cause any problems?

 

[pappaecho]

My first boat has the Ford 113 engine was a super little engine. My initial response was ....coil.
I would try a substitute coil. If there is a fault such as broken winding, as the coil gets hot and the contact is lost. As the coil cools down the contact is remade, so it starts

Its funny that when the 113 engine was fitted to cars they were b*ggers to start. Yet in my boat, cold and damp it would start on the (wait for it) ..handle first go!

 

[Alpha22]

COIL!

Very common on these ford based petrol engines. Speak to any small Freeman owner.
They over heat due to slow running and lack of cooling. Replacement s the only way to go, once the insulation has started to break down there is no way back. While you are at it, replace plugs, points and condenser. Consider rotor arm, cap and leads too.

Electronic ignition is a good permanent cure. Available these days for under £40.

 

[sheepmonkey]

Electronic ignition is a good permanent cure. Available these days for under £40.

I am liking the sound of that. Do you have a link for where one could get such a kit.