workshop tools - a serious strategic decision

sarabande

sarabande

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has to be made.


I have the usual range of portable drills, sanders, planers, etc, but the time has come with a lot of woodworking on the horizon (ranging from house window cills, herb drier,to boaty bits such as a mast, new cockpit locker lids), for a decision on a 'proper' piece of kit.

I've looked at the multi-task devices from e.g. Axminster, but are they a compromise ? Would I be better going for a saw table, a bandsaw, a router table, or stick with one of the all-singing, all-dancing devices ? The workshop has a good set of benches (ex laboratory tables) already.

I have about 400 squid to throw at this, new or secondhand.

TIA
 
If you can get separate tools, and have space for them, do.

Imagine you're cutting an edge and then rounding it over. With separate tools it's a two-minute job to run it through the table saw and then across the router table. If you have to reconfigure the machine in between it'll take much longer - and then you find you need to cut another edge and change it all back.

I don't have space for big tools like table saws, but I did buy a second router to go with the table, rather than spend time fixing and removing my main one.

Pete
 
When I asked the same question of my local furniture restorer - who has a well equipped workshop - he said his most useful bit of serious kit was his Thicknesser.
 
No doubt at all that the single most useful machine is a bandsaw - when I rebuilt my workshop a couple of years ago I moved all the machines out, but the bandsaw was the first to be re - installed as I couldn't do without it.
For what you have in mind, I would have a router as the second machine of choice - a decent 1/2" model, with a table to invert it, plus a selection of suitable cutters. (The table can be knocked up from mdf or ply, a batten and 2 g-cramps for the fence).
Best value for fixed machines is secondhand - eg bandsaws, something like a Startrite 352 or a small Wadkin, rather than a cheap foreign import. I wouldn't buy a secondhand router unless I could try it out, or knew the seller.
A planer/thicknesser is very useful, but not unless you have a bandsaw first. A sawbench would not be near the top of the list as it is nowhere near as versatile as a bandsaw.
 
One needs to sign up at the local Tech College for an Advanced Course in Finger Maintenance.

Geriatric bandsaws, routers underslung as DIY spindle moulders with rickety fences like wot I have, sit-up-and-beg table saws and 2Kw hard-start routers are well known for their digit-mulching predilections.

Push sticks, featherboards, clamps and jigs, very good lighting, No-Volt release switches and wood dust extraction should also figure in your plans. I've got some of that stuff, and I still have some fingers.

Having plenty of bench-space permits a decent router to be mounted 'underslung' properly onto a dedicated plate, with a quality fence and extraction. Axminster Tools, not far from you, can help with ideas and products. Get yourself a copy of the Trend Catalogue for some other good ideas.

Will your mast be a 'birds mouth' 8-sided construction? :)
 
Will your mast be a 'birds mouth' 8-sided construction?

If so, a 45deg slope guide and back fence on the router worked fine for my 3 small spars.

Tools: Def the router table and 1/2" inch, in my case a Roybi. I often use the Axminster 'biscuit' cutter for joining planks.
Also, in the expectation of much house work, I justified a planer/thicknesser from their budget range + the bandsaw. Very pleased with them both, liberates one from getting ready sized timber. But, bit more than £400 for them. IIRR, £550 new. Use them most days.
Pillar drill is also a big plus. Mine is commercial quality, but even a cheapy chinese is streets better than a hand drill. My cheapy (€100) 1800wt site style bench saw gets a lot of use too.
DW
Friend just nipped the end off his thumb with a bench saw, so listen to Bilbo.
 
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An inexpensive bench drill would be my pick, followed by

A bandsaw a bit like this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-awhbs310n-bandsaw-prod804564/

and a sawbench a bit like this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-aw10bsb2-saw-bench-prod832683/

The saw bench is a heavy thing capable of accurate work and being used in a robust manner. It will rebate, groove, cut angles and mitres and (with help from your bandsaw) will allow you to quickly thickness timber of 6in width and more.

With your budget you will need to buy secondhand but I would advise you not to compromise on the weight and quality of these saws.
 
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The toy which I like best is my Makita compound mitre saw. What could be better than something that does the job so much better than I ever could, in a hundredth of the time and with no effort? I just wish I could have afforded the sliding version but it was an extra £300!
 
I might have a router table going spare. Its a sliding top one as well...

I am also probably going to sell my planer/thicknesser - but the local wood work man has his eye on it as he is moving from a full workshop to his garage and mine is more 'garage sized'.

I won't get rid of a couple of things like some of the power tools.

Although I don't have a band saw, but I do have a cheap sliding mitre saw. Changing the blade to a decent one made a lot of difference and I will keep it.
 
Bandsaw vs Bench saw

doug748 said:
An inexpensive bench drill would be my pick, followed by

A bandsaw a bit like this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-awhbs310n-bandsaw-prod804564/

and a sawbench a bit like this:

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-aw10bsb2-saw-bench-prod832683/

The saw bench is a heavy thing capable of accurate work and being used in a robust manner. It will rebate, groove, cut angles and mitres and (with help from your bandsaw) will allow you to quickly thickness timber of 6in width and more.

With your budget you will need to buy secondhand but I would advise you not to compromise on the weight and quality of these saws.
Click to expand...

If you wanted to convert teak planks into decking size strips which of the saws would you recommend? Also is the kerf of a band saw less than a bench saw?
 
srp said:
No doubt at all that the single most useful machine is a bandsaw - when I rebuilt my workshop a couple of years ago I moved all the machines out, but the bandsaw was the first to be re - installed as I couldn't do without it.
For what you have in mind, I would have a router as the second machine of choice - a decent 1/2" model, with a table to invert it, plus a selection of suitable cutters. (The table can be knocked up from mdf or ply, a batten and 2 g-cramps for the fence).
Best value for fixed machines is secondhand - eg bandsaws, something like a Startrite 352 or a small Wadkin, rather than a cheap foreign import. I wouldn't buy a secondhand router unless I could try it out, or knew the seller.
A planer/thicknesser is very useful, but not unless you have a bandsaw first. A sawbench would not be near the top of the list as it is nowhere near as versatile as a bandsaw.
Click to expand...

+1 bandsaw I could not do without

followed by jointer/planer , then thicknesser
 
johna said:
If you wanted to convert teak planks into decking size strips which of the saws would you recommend? Also is the kerf of a band saw less than a bench saw?
Click to expand...

The bandsaw blade would normally lose less material. The advantage of the circular saw is accuracy, speed and quality of cut. If you wanted to do a lot, you would be right up at the limit of that size of machine though.

You would need tungsten carbide tipped blades, with 2/4 blades the spares can be sent for resharpening whilst the others were in use. They need to be kept clean and will produce an excellent finish. Except, I forgot to mention the belt sander. This will complete the job without the need for further preparation; it has many, many other applications and would be my third "must have" pick, for general workshop use.

If you were building or redecking a large boat you would want to expand this basic kit but I think it meets the original brief.
 
Just another reminder to factor in dust extraction to your considerations. One extractor can be ducted to many machines. Hardwood dust is not something it is wise to have prolonged exposure to.
 
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