Working with Veneer - anyone got paneling tips ?

captainslarty

captainslarty

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Have made lots of curved intricate shapes from laminated vaneer (Teak).
Now, I want to cover a single panel that will take 2 strips of veneer, they will be end butted together.
Problem is (From waht I have been told) that the veneer will shrink width wise ??.. is this the case ?.
If so, how does one allow for this when fixing / gluing ?
Or, any other tips for venner work.
Cheers n beers
Joe
 
Yup but thats not why i pointed him there , i thought i knew how to do it but after speaking to another member it all depends on what glue and timber you are using as there are many methods to veneering . I use the normal white glue pva way with brown paper and a hot iron after wetting the veneer but as i said it all depends on what materials you are using .
 
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Yup but thats not why i pointed him there ,

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I wasn't questioning that at all. I just felt pleased with myself after making the connection that you had bought chisels, so I counted the ones in your photo and, sure enough, there were seventeen! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Re veneering, the little that I have done was always the 'old way' with stinky, brown, glue that is soaked overnight and then melted in an iron glue-pot. I believe you call it Scotch Glue?
But that was always for indoor, shore use: not on a boat.

In this case, I think that I would have applied the veneer over a thin panel of marine ply as a stable backing, using recorcinol glue. I don't know what a professional would do. I just enjoy making shavings! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Sorry if you thought that I was 'stalking'.
 
17 Chisels , Pah ! I have far more than that /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Problem is i only use about four of them /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Didnt think you where stalking it just gets a bit ( Is this the right thing to do ) when you point someone to another forum
 
The way we used to do it in the workshop was:

a) Dampen the veneer and press between sheets of clean paper for a few hours to flatten them if necessary. (Don't use plastic sheet - it will cause mould marks very quickly) I dare say you could flatten them with a steam iron, but I've never tried it.

b) Overlap the veneers and cut through both off a straight-edge, or, better, clamp between 2 boards and shoot the edges to make a crisp butt

c) Butt them and tape them together (sellotape works OK, but getting the residue off can be a pain)

d) Unless it is thin stuff fold them back a tad and run some glue in (PVA is fine), then glue the veneer to the core and clamp in a press. If it is fairly thin board then put backing veneer on the other side at the same time, otherwise the difference in moisture content can cause distortion

e) Gently does it with the sander!

If you are glueing it onto ply then don't forget that you are just adding another ply layer, so it is more stable if you put the grain at right angles to the previous layer. If it is properly glued then it can't shrink.
BTW how are you going to clamp it? Options without access to press are: for small jobs use loadsa clamps; for bigger jobs then a rockered board clamped at each end can do it; for DIY on a quayside in Spain - place the job between 2 thick smooth boards and park a car on it! Seriously /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
I have used the iron on veneer and the overlapping technique. Sand off the raised but with a random orbit sander and it doesn't seem to shrink.
 
We use 8x4 rolls of veneer backed fabric, it takes 99% of the skill of veneering out & avoids shrinkage etc., the downside is that its still best achieved ina press - I wouldnt like to reveneer a vertical panel insitu within a boat, as the best glues arent instant contact, but need time & even pressure
 
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