Working with Formica

[Kelpie]

I'm thinking about re-modelling the galley, using ply and Formica. I'll be doing worktops and one wall, which currently has a series of fiddly cubbies to hold plates and mugs. The plan is to simplify it by turning it in to normal lockers with hinged doors.

I'll have buy the ply and Formica separately. Should I bond the Formica down and then cut the ply? Or is it easier to cut them first? I've got a circular saw which I've used for kitchen worktops before so I know it does a reasonable job.

What about the doors... elsewhere in the boat we have lockers in Formica faced areas, and they've got tidy little wooden edge trims. Is that really necessary? It's going to add a lot of work and I don't know what kind of trims I can find round here.

I know it's going to be a big job but I've got the boat to myself for two weeks so it's a good chance to do it.

 

[Ian_Rob]

When I did this on a small panel a few months ago, I cut the panel to size, bonded a slightly oversized piece of laminate to it and when securely stuck, trimmed off the surplus with a bearing guided bit in hand router. The bit I used had a slight bevel which left the top edge of the laminate slightly set back and less likely to being damaged but not invulnerable.

Whether you lip the edges or not, depends I think on the hammer they are likely to get and the aesthetic you are after.

 

[DownWest]

Somewhere I have a little tungsten carbide point in a plastic handle that is used to score the surface to get a clean edge. Now, like Ian, I would use a router.
The tc point is used with a straight edge with several passes, then snap what is left, what remaines respondes to a bit of sanding.

 

[Lightwave395]

As above, I made six locker doors (they were teak veneered on the outside and formica lined on the inside). The formica side was cut slightly bigger and trimmed down after it was glued to the ply

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Another vote for cutting the panels then oversize formica trimmed with a hand held router and bearing guided cutter.

 

[PCUK]

A fine file working downwards also gives a clean finish. Have you got a laminate wholesaler near you as the price will be dramatically lower?

 

[Fr J Hackett]

A fine file working downwards also gives a clean finish. Have you got a laminate wholesaler near you as the price will be dramatically lower?

Even using a router I would run either a very fine file or sanding block over the edge to take off the very sharp right angle edge.

 

[Tranona]

Why not just paint the doors? Really no need for Formica on surfaces that are not subject to wear. Wood trim makes a difference and easiest if you can to buy ready made mouldings or strip wood.
I made these doors recently. They are sliding so thin at5mm to suit the channel that I had and the trim is just Iroko strip I cut to match the rest of the trim in that area. Not fully fitted in this shot which was taken of a trial fit to make sure the framework fitted and doors slid before permanent installation.

 

[geem]

I'm thinking about re-modelling the galley, using ply and Formica. I'll be doing worktops and one wall, which currently has a series of fiddly cubbies to hold plates and mugs. The plan is to simplify it by turning it in to normal lockers with hinged doors.

I'll have buy the ply and Formica separately. Should I bond the Formica down and then cut the ply? Or is it easier to cut them first? I've got a circular saw which I've used for kitchen worktops before so I know it does a reasonable job.

What about the doors... elsewhere in the boat we have lockers in Formica faced areas, and they've got tidy little wooden edge trims. Is that really necessary? It's going to add a lot of work and I don't know what kind of trims I can find round here.

I know it's going to be a big job but I've got the boat to myself for two weeks so it's a good chance to do it.

One of the problems with cutting formica is the risk of it cracking. Bonding slightly larger pieces to ply with contact adhesive then belt sanding the ply edges works for me. If you need a bit sander we will be heading your way at some point. Currently in Carriacou

 

[geem]

Why not just paint the doors? Really no need for Formica on surfaces that are not subject to wear. Wood trim makes a difference and easiest if you can to buy ready made mouldings or strip wood.
I made these doors recently. They are sliding so thin at5mm to suit the channel that I had and the trim is just Iroko strip I cut to match the rest of the trim in that area. Not fully fitted in this shot which was taken of a trial fit to make sure the framework fitted and doors slid before permanent installation.

Painting anything here in the heat and humidity of the Caribbean in summer, has a tendency to look like a ploughed field. The OP is in Grenada.

 

[rogerthebodger]

I fitted out my galley and shower with Formica

I cut the ply to side and test fitted it then cut the formica oversize with an old goscut tool.

Once clued to the ply I used a laminate trimmer (small router) to trim the edge

Do have pics which I will post once i have access

 

[Wansworth]

Why not just have painted surfaces on vertical bits

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Formica would be good for stabilising the ply particularly in high use and wet / humid areas especially if the quality of the ply is not known or the best plus it is more durable and easier to maintain and keep clean than a painted surface? For sliding doors I would use perspex or polycarbonate.

 

[geem]

Formica would be good for stabilising the ply particularly in high use and wet / humid areas especially if the quality of the ply is not known or the best plus it is more durable and easier to maintain and keep clean than a painted surface? For sliding doors I would use perspex or polycarbonate.

Our galley sliding cupboard doors are coloured polycarbonate. I fitted those 10 years ago and they look as good as the day I fitted them.
The heads cupboard doors are formica. They are the original from 1980. Still in excellent condition. Even good two pack paint is not so durable. How would the paint on your car look after 43 years?

 

[Wansworth]

Paint was good enough for my father and his father

 

[Fr J Hackett]

Successive generations should try to improve on what their forebears did, it's called evolution.

 

[Tranona]

Painting anything here in the heat and humidity of the Caribbean in summer, has a tendency to look like a ploughed field. The OP is in Grenada.

I am pretty sure that there will be paint finishes that work find in that environment. After all from the pictures I have seen and the time I spent out there 50 years ago there are an awful lot of painted structures and interiors around!

 

[Kelpie]

Thanks all.
As Geem says, I'm in Grenada, where painting is a pain due to heat and humidity. Copious thinner needed. Good quality 2 pack paint is also pretty expensive here, about £100 a tin, whereas Formica can be had from about £60 a sheet.

I've got limited space and equipment. Certainly no router. I've got a circular saw, an oscillating multi-tool, random orbital sander, and the offer of a jigsaw (and, now, belt sander). I don't have a work bench etc, just the space on the boat.

If I go over-sized and them trim down, that means I'm not just cutting doors directly out of the main sheet. Perhaps it's naive to attempt that.

The tungsten carbide tipped scorer sounds interesting. Similar to how you cut tiles?

In the interests of simplicity I wasn't going to attempt sliding doors. Just plain hinged openings.

 

[rogerthebodger]

Painting is good if you have the skill and I dont ass my painting is a mess. My spraying is even worst

 

[Tranona]

Formica would be good for stabilising the ply particularly in high use and wet / humid areas especially if the quality of the ply is not known or the best plus it is more durable and easier to maintain and keep clean than a painted surface? For sliding doors I would use perspex or polycarbonate.

I have used both polycarbonate and ply as in the photo above. I would have used polycarbonate again but the teak sliding channels I bought which were nominally 5mm would not take 5mm either perspex or polycarbonate. Although the wood ones took ages to make and fit properly they suit the style of the boat well.

BTW the paint I used was not "marine" - totally unnecessary inside, but a Dulux product intended for kitchen as and bathrooms. As I suggested pretty sure similar paints for domestic use will be available suitable for the environment.