Wood treatment for wooden boathook?

[mogmog2]

The boathook that came with the boat is sound but was green with algae. It's now sanded & I was about to varnish it & my wife wondered whether this would make it slippery when wet.

I am about to order some Woodskin for the rest of the boat, but gather it doesn't stand up to abrasion well so is it therefore not suitable?

Or varnish it and apply a texture somehow like diy non-slip decks?

On that note, does that render Woodskin unsuitable for washboards?

Many thanks

 

[Tranona]

Woodskin is fine for both applications. You are correct it does suffer from abrasion but can't see that is an issue with either washboards or a boat hook. Usual place for abrasion is rubbing strakes and toe rails, but it is easily touched up if it happens, or you can put anti chafe protection strips if there are known places where it happens.

 

[LadyInBed]

Varnish then wrap a fancy whipping as a handle.

 

[Kukri]

Varnish then wrap a fancy whipping as a handle.

Good approach if you have time. If not, if the shaft is ash, just do nothing and let it go grey.

 

[mogmog2]

Thanks.

 

[MonniotC]

just do nothing and let it go grey.

Works for me. And my boathook. I agree that varnishing will make it slippery when wet.

 

[Kukri]

The "theory" of "do nothing" is that whilst ash is not a durable timber, and always rots in confined spaces, it does not rot if it is left open to lots of fresh air and occasionally wetted with sea water. This appears to be true.

 

[mogmog2]

Varnish then wrap a fancy whipping as a handle.

Did cross my mind, but decided that I CBA

Good approach if you have time. If not, if the shaft is ash, just do nothing and let it go grey.

Is Ash the most likely wood? So I could just leave it.
What prompted this was that, as you do when you have a pressure washer going, you start squirting anything that can't get out of the way (well it was very green) and obviously lifted a load of fibres, making it splintery. Now sanded down it's OK, but as we're about to Woodskin our brightwork, I thought it might as well match.

The "theory" of "do nothing" is that whilst ash is not a durable timber, and always rots in confined spaces, it does not rot if it is left open to lots of fresh air and occasionally wetted with sea water. This appears to be true.

The head/shaft joint is the only part that will trap water and given that one is very unlikely to take the head off to treat it, treating the handle is cosmetic then. I'l leave it till last to see if we have any Woodskin left.

 

[Kukri]

Did cross my mind, but decided that I CBA

Too late in the season for that!

Is Ash the most likely wood? So I could just leave it.

If it's a whitish grey colour, and quite heavy, its probably ash. "Proper" boathook staves always are.

What prompted this was that, as you do when you have a pressure washer going, you start squirting anything that can't get out of the way (well it was very green) and obviously lifted a load of fibres, making it splintery. Now sanded down it's OK, but as we're about to Woodskin our brightwork, I thought it might as well match.

Been there, done that thing...

The head/shaft joint is the only part that will trap water and given that one is very unlikely to take the head off to treat it, treating the handle is cosmetic then. I'l leave it till last to see if we have any Woodskin left.

Yup.

 

[LadyInBed]

Did cross my mind, but decided that I CBA

Depends if it's a nice brass one or plastic.

 

[Malish]

Do remember to put it below deck when you leave the boat... most of the degradation will occur when you are not aboard

 

[guyd]

I use a lot of "5 star" anti rot/woodworm etc for my rakes and spades in my smallholding. Seems to help. It's thin enough that it penetrates the socket of the rake (or hook....) And protects it. Available from all builders merchants.

 

[mogmog2]

Do remember to put it below deck when you leave the boat... most of the degradation will occur when you are not aboard

Fair point. Thanks

 

[mogmog2]

I use a lot of "5 star" anti rot/woodworm etc for my rakes and spades in my smallholding. Seems to help. It's thin enough that it penetrates the socket of the rake (or hook....) And protects it. Available from all builders merchants.

I did wonder about standing it in the Barrettine wood preserver (similar? very low viscosity) on the basis it can't do any harm. However, it's more likely to to be snapped, or disappear overboard than rot I suspect. We nearly lost it on our first trip trying to hold onto the mooring buoy against a wind-assisted current. Had to let go of it, but luckily had the dinghy inflated & could get it back. Won't be making that mistake again.

 

[mogmog2]

Depends if it's a nice brass one or plastic.

Agreed, that would look very nice. I would be more motivated if it was brass, but only plastic. Tough though - when we had the mooring buoy incident, I was amazed that the hook (a) didn't break and (b) come off the shaft.

 

[mersey]

Next time you do a change, use your old engine oil on it.

 

[snorkmaiden]

I varnished mine - can't say that slipping has been a problem. Agree that teak can look after itself, without product. Unlikely that boathook is teak, though?

 

[William_H]

Wow varnish for the boat hook? My boat hooks have mostly been old broom handle with plastic fitting on the end. I had one like this for a long time but eventually it disappeared. It had been rescued a few times because it floated. Currently the most used boat hook is a piece of ali tube that was once a extendible mop handle. It has a piece of ali pop riveted onto the end to make a hook. The beauty of this hook is that it will collapse to fit into the cockpit locker. So I can fish it out easily when approaching swing mooring. Yes a bit short but it is only a small boat. I make sure there is a very long painter on the dinghy to make a big easy target. My standby boat hook is a plastic fitting attached to the end of a long paddle which does live under the cockpit inside the cabin. I have not had to use it in recent years. So about the last of my concerns is as to what varnish to put on it. However I do drill a hole through the end of the handle to take a loop of rope which can slip over the wrist to hopefully avoid losing the boat hook. olewill

 

[gus]

Simplest solution is just rub in some linseed oil, that will feed to wood and stop it drying out.

 

[mogmog2]

Olewill, I like the wrist loop idea. We've just bought our boat. She was very scruffy and we are sprucing her up. This first time may be the only time we ever do the brightwork.

Gus, I like oiled wood and wondered about (any of the various) oils i have. However, I'm not sure that it is any easier than Woodskin, especially as we'll be doing that anyway.