Wood for cockpit.

[PeteLivez]

Hi all, As you will see in the image, I have plywood panels behind the instruments. They have seen better days and I am in the process of removing them. The surface behind it is perfectly acceptable but I prefer the look of the wood. What should I replace it with? Is marine ply the best or is a solid wood (reclaimed from old furniture maybe) better?

 

[paulajayne]

Picture not showing.

 

[Graham376]

Marine ply is much easier, solid wood looks better but could cup, bow or twist. Old furniture is often a veneered face. For ease, I would go for plywood.

 

[jamie N]

I've just done a similar thing on my wooden Folkboat, and used 6mm marine ply, which I bonded to the existing plywood, whilst looking poor, wasn't 'rotten'. I didn't pay too much attention to the top veneer that the new ply had, and used a wood dye; light oak IIRC, then varnished.
This is it a little before completion:

 

[PetiteFleur]

And if you want to keep it looking good, make a canvas cover for it when not on board. I've done this and have only given the varnish work one revarnish in 15 yrs - after initial varnishing. And make sure all the end grain has several coats of varnish.

 

[LadyInBed]

I use Marine ply but I always edge it with a hardwood molding, either Lip L or T depending on the application as it's the end grain where the damp gets in.

 

[PeteLivez]

Thanks Guys, I have ordered some 9mm Marine Ply. Will report back on final result.

 

[Tranona]

Might be too late if you have ordered the ply, but if that were my boat and the actual bulkhead was solid, I would use a 4mm marine ply faced with a high quality decorative veneer to blend in with the rest of the boat> suggest you talk to Robbins Timber it Bristol who will either sell you veneer sheets or might bond it on for you. Coat with Sikkens Cetol No7 and it will stay good for years.

I agree with post#5. The best investment for a boat like that is a cockpit cover for every time you leave it for more than a few days and an overall cover for the winter. I had a 1963 built wood boat from 1980 until recently and the cockpit bulkheads were refaced in 3mm sapele veneered ply in 1992 and never needed any refinishing.

 

[PeteLivez]

Might be too late if you have ordered the ply, but if that were my boat and the actual bulkhead was solid, I would use a 4mm marine ply faced with a high quality decorative veneer to blend in with the rest of the boat> suggest you talk to Robbins Timber it Bristol who will either sell you veneer sheets or might bond it on for you. Coat with Sikkens Cetol No7 and it will stay good for years.

Nice idea, could I veneer the 9mm

 

[john_morris_uk]

I've got a pile of teak veneer I'm trying to get rid of if you're interested.

 

[Tranona]

I've got a pile of teak veneer I'm trying to get rid of if you're interested.

I could be interested. What sort of veneer is it? thickness and cut?

 

[Tranona]

Nice idea, could I veneer the 9mm

Yes, you could. Just 9mm is OTT for facing existing panels. 3,4 or at most 6mm is all you need for stability. I am using some 3mm for facing damaged structural bulkheads that have been patched where the rotten wood has been removed. You can even veneer onto existing ply, although this is tricky on vertical bulkheads so better to veneer a thin stable ply base first and stick that to the bulkhead. I use contact adhesive and make sure the edges are well sealed if external.

 

[Concerto]

You can also buy veneer with a heat activated glue already applied, then use a domestic iron to bond it to the plywood. Alternatively you can buy sheet PVA glue that is heat activated. Both are available on eBay.

 

[john_morris_uk]

I could be interested. What sort of veneer is it? thickness and cut?

I’ll measure the thickness and all I remember atm is it’s paper backed. There’s lots of it but in odd shapes. You could veneer large panels by butt jointing carefully lengthways with the grain. It’s quite dark teak but tgat might be oxidation? I’ll try and photograph some.