Wood cockpit windows frame re-seal to deck

Jonti

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I’ve just spent four days removing old silicone seal between all my wooden window frames and the white GRP of the top area of the deck. I’ve got to re-seal this, I don’t want to use Sika or any strong adhesive. I was going to use black Arbo 1000, i’ve made some tests with this and although it takes a fair while to cure it’s a nice finish and can if need be, can be trimmed with a knife. But then I had a thought ….. perhaps WHITE Arbo 1000 might be better (looks wise) for this than BLACK / seal (about 6mm depth) see pic…between the wood windows and white deck. I just wondered if anyone had any experience with this? My main concern is if the Arbo white will get really dirty given it’s not a smooth gloss cure, more of a rubbery matt finish? R. Jon.
 

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Tranona

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It is recommended for perimeter sealing of window frames, although I have never used it for that. Give it a go as not the end of the world to remove it if it does look grotty after a while.
 

tillergirl

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I have a similar issue. The timber (utlle) strake on the GRP hull did not have a perfect profile on the back: i.e. the back of the wood was flat while there is a small curvature on the hull. The mastic along the top of the joint had failed and water was getting behind. I was able to rake out a lot of the failed mastic. I then applied masking tape top and bottom of the joint leaving the gap free. I then applied Arbo 1000 (grey actually - black unavailable and back order had no information) along the joint pushing as much mastic down the back. At the right time I removed the masking tape and I am happy with the result. Is it reliable? Well time will tell.

I might be able to get a photo tomorrow afternoon.
 

Jonti

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Sounds similar to what I’ve got planned- because i’ve never used Arbo 1000 before it has a slightly more runny consistency/ ideal for getting deeper into joins (i think), but finishing/ when to remove masking tape etc (given the mess it can make) will be interesting. I plan to do a test first to check this. Usually with silicon i finish it before it skins and then remove masking tape immediately (otherwise it tends to tear) this stuff i’m not sure about- i guess a few tests to learn this especially as it’s going to be such a visible area will probably be worth it.
 

tillergirl

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I found removing immediately with Arbo didn't work. I removed it when I could see a skin, a thin skin, started. Getting the width and angle of nozzle was important so the actually 'fillet' did not need any tooling.
 
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