Wiring

[JasB]

Oil leak sorted,
engine in,
water connected,

fuel connected,
now for the electrics:

this is a wiring diagram for the original wiring for a vire 7:

Original setup



My setup (HA!) bypasses the magneto ignition, and uses a seperate coil and the magneto points...so I am told!?

so far I have rewired the dynastart so that it turns the engine over, but what next?

Below (I hope) is a diagram of where I am now:

(click the thunbnail for bigger piccy)
WHere should the wires (numbered 1 - 6) be connected?

The stop button closes the switch when depressed.

(sorry about the second diagram...I am not an electrician)

And what do the letters/numbers on the dynastart refer to? D+ 30H D and DF.

 

[bendyone]

cant see the second diagram

 

[JasB]

That should do it

 

[Sixpence]

Still no second pic

 

[JasB]

come back in half an hour, i will get it hosted elswhere

Sorted...don't bother using webshots.

 

[misterg]

[ QUOTE ]

Below (I hope) is a diagram of where I am now:

WHere should the wires (numbered 1 - 6) be connected?

The stop button closes the switch when depressed.



[/ QUOTE ]

Don't know vires or dynastarts, but there's something wrong with your diagram, in that the battery -ve is connected to the ign switch. The original set-up in the link looks OK.

As to 1-6, I would say:

2-3,
4-bat -ve

5-3 ] Assuming the switch is normally open, as you indicated
6-4 ]

1 needs to come from a switched 12v. It's unclear whether this is provided by the IGN position (check that there is 12v on the IGN terminal when the key is turned to start)

If there is a polarity marked on the coil, 1 should be the +, and 2 should be the - in my description.

Andy

 

[JasB]

between 54 on the ign switch and the neg battery is the fuse box and other gubbins that are not really important, but I forgot to put them in.

I'll have a go at that tomorrow...listen for a loud explosion fom the east

 

[misterg]

Whoa!!

You're going to wreck something!

Look at the original set-up again. Battery -ve is connected to the engine / dynastart metalwork.

54 is the switched +12v for 'accessories' via a fuse board. Do not connect it to bat -ve!

Andy

 

[JasB]

would this make the off switch redundant?:
2-3
4-batt negative
1-15 (on the ignition switch)

 

[misterg]

[ QUOTE ]
would this make the off switch redundant?:
2-3
4-batt negative
1-15 (on the ignition switch)

[/ QUOTE ]

I'd go along with that, with the proviso that there is 12v on 15 when the key is turned to start (50). In my limited experience, this would normally be the case with an automotive ignition switch, but as the original engine had a magneto, there's no reason why this had to be the case here, indeed, the vagueries(sp?) of the dynastart operation may require this not to be the case. IMHO I would suggest disconnecting the battery and using a multimeter to check for continuity between 30 and 15 when the switch is in both the IGN and ST positions. If there is, then all is hunky dory, if not, then some other switched 12v supply will be needed

Andy

 

[JasB]

never boring, is it?

Thanks all

 

[Chrissie]

Ah ha! another sailor with a vire, mines a Vire 12, I was asking about the green and grey wires at the weekend, someone sent the wireing diagram for a Vire 7, its on Sundays threads.
Dont suppose you know anyone with a vire 12?
I too am about to launch after a refit, goodluck

 

[bendyone]

For the spark cuircuit

either 3 or 4 will be earthed in the engine
use the non earthed (3 or 4) to 2 on the coil
connect 1 to 5
connect 6 to +ve.
everytime the contact point make this will pluse +ve to the coil and a spake will be sent to the plug.

 

[JasB]

[ QUOTE ]

Dont suppose you know anyone with a vire 12?

[/ QUOTE ]

I am the only person I know with a Vire 6/7/ or 12. The problem is they are so old that I doubt you will find one that hasn't been modified in some way or another unless you buy a reconditioned one.
The circles I move in consist of people whos boats have ex-refrigerator engines, and marinised van engines installed.
If any of us actually motor anywhere it is considered as amazing as walking on water /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[misterg]

[ QUOTE ]

connect 1 to 5
connect 6 to +ve

[/ QUOTE ]

N.B. the stop switch (5 and 6) is described as normally open in the original post - this would work fine with a normally closed switch, or if the OP wanted to keep his finger on the stop button to keep the engine running - like a 'dead man's handle'! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

One last point is that the body of the coil also needs to be connected to -ve (usually achieved by bolting it to the engine).

HTH

Andy

 

[JasB]

poo

didn't work, could be the coil, I ran a current through the low tension curcuit, and when I broke the curcuit there was no spark from the High tension lead so, down to the scrappies tomorrow.

 

[misterg]

Were you trying just the coil on its own? (sorry if it's granny / eggs - presumably you had a wire in the HT terminal of the coil, and were checking for a spark between the other end of this and the 'can' of the coil??)

 

[JasB]

don't worry about egg-sucking, misterg.
Advice is always welcome, wether needed or not (never can be too informed).
I was testing WITH the plug attached, but I think the problem may be the coil as it is 'used'.
I discovered that the points are already earthed, so one of the wires coming from the magneto is redundant, but until I can get a coil that definately works, I can't be sure.

 

[misterg]

Just to confirm: The coil *is* bolted to the engine (or otherwise electrically connected), isn't it?