Winterizing an old and fragile Volvo MD7A

nickdick

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9 Jan 2003
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I know most of you will suggest taking it out of the boat and putting it in the airing cupboard for the winter months but SHE will object. Last Spring despite there being asolutely no water in the fuel system, both the injectors (2) and the injection pump were damaged by salt water. Big bill. Also since I`ve heard from people that I respect as good engineers that these engines self distruct from the inside before wearing out, do I fill the internal water channels with a mixture of anti-freeze/fresh water and perhaps a little oil ? In addition of course to the usual oil changes, blocking up inlets/outlets etc.
 
I have an old md7a, and has done me proud, and i know that i can start her even if the batteries are dead, one thing most of these new engines cannot compete with.

For winterizing i:-

1) disconnect the inlet hose from the seacock, stick a longer tube in to get it to the bucket full of water, with a hose with a spray nozzle on the end for controlling the flow into the bucket.

2) start the engine and put the tube in the bucket of water then regulate the flow, keep this going until the engine is warm, about 20 mins for me, on a high idle.

3) Turn engine off and change oil and oil filter, and fit new filter and oil, run engine again and check level and top up.

4)run engine again and add neat antifreeze to water(ensure 50/50 mix) and check it is leaving the exhaust, and just before switching off i spray inhibiting oil into the air inlet.

5) Block off the exhaust exit with a cap or rag. and i then take the air filter off the boat and swill it out with petrol and let it dry, and replace it next season.

6) You can also change the fuel filters and don't forget the lift pump filter, when changing the oil filters, but i dont bother with that till the beginning of the season.

7) Also the impeller, i dont change that till the beginning of the new season, when i do the fuel filters.

8) and i lightly spray the engine with the inhibiting oil to keep rust at bay.

and i turn the engine on the flywheel, when i visit so the rings dont stick.


9)Disconnect the batts and give them a top up and good charge and dab of vaseline.

And thats about it on the engine... and time for a /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
 
I have an utterly reliable MD7 and Colvic has pretty much said exactly what it needs for winterising. Any raw water cooled engine will slowly corrode from within the water passages. MD7s are made of good Swedish iron and take a long, long time to do so. Don't worry about it.

Regards, Mudhook
 
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