Winterising

[shetland]

Can the forum give advice on winterising a Volvo 3.0 sterndrive engine.
Volvo recommend filling the block and manifold with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze over the winter period, but what is the best way of getting the antifreeze into the engine block and manifold, and
does the impeller have to be removed at the end of the season.
How much antifreeze will i need to carry out this work.

 

[DAKA]

Take impeller out to rest it and immerse in boiling water to reform.
Put end cap back on finger tight.
8 L of 50/50 mix and pump it in using a drill type pump, standard garden hose with tape 1 inch from end.
put pipe in to strainer, one pipe at a time (there are two pipes in the strainer).

Draw in will only take 2 L so give it 2.5L+

Engine will take 4L, best have someone out side to shout but you wont hear them so give it 5.5L.+

There is a theoretical chance of back fill to pots so you could run on tick over during process.

 

[gimmesunshine]

get a big bucket, run engine for 10 minutes in your mix, job job done, take impellor out will prevent it deforming

 

[jon_bailey]

Re: Winterising - very long post

I hope that this helps, collected over several years.

The section in bold explains in detail how I used to get antifreeze into my Mercruiser 4.3.

==============================

WINTERIZING YOUR INBOARD

First things first, let's get those gas tanks filled and fuel stabilizer added according to the directions for storage (OMC brand is called 2+4). We want them full to prevent condensation, and we add stabilizer because today's fuels can have a shelf life of only 3 months without it.

Next, run the engines up to operating temperature to get the stabilizer into the entire fuel system, and to warm the engine oil. Next, let's change the oil and filter. The reason we want to do this before extended storage, is that the used oil has accumulated acids which can attack internal engine parts over the storage period (while I am a tad skeptical over this issue, I'm not about to question an engineer's advice). Warming the oil makes it easier to change and suspends the sludge resulting in a cleaner change. Since you're gonna change your oil anyway, we might as well do it now. Don't forget to replace the filter and don't scrimp on the quality. A couple of bucks saved is hardly worth the effort when you look at what you're risking.

BTW, your engine is equipped with a special fitting for getting the oil out via the dip stick tube with a special pump (attachable to an electric drill and available at your dealer). The fitting you attach it to looks just like an garden hose end (which is exactly what will fit onto it). On Mercruiser, the dipstick and drain tube are one and the same. On OMC's, we made some models the same as Merc, and some with a second tube and cap specifically for draining the oil.

Either way, the oil cannot be changed without some sort of suction pump and proper fittings as there is no drain plug in the oil pan (like you would want to drain your oil there anyway). Prior to about 1976, neither manufacturer had what I just described, and we have to use a glorified straw that went down the dip stick tube which always leaves you with the uneasy feeling that you didn't get it all (since it's difficult to tell whether or not the straw is at the bottom of the pan or curling around and coming back up again). On these older models (not applicable to most) there *is* a drain plug and if you get a heavy duty garbage bag, you can drain the oil into the bag and *carefully* remove it from the bilge. It's surprising how the tiniest hose clamp sticking out will easily tear open your bag of oil sending it into your bilge .

Refill your engine with SAE 30 weight oil for us Northerners, and those in the warmer climates should consider SAE 40. I do not recommend multi-grades (although Merc does list it as an alternative). IMHO, multi-grades never live up to the job their supposed to do and since none of you will be doing any below 40 degree start-ups, we don't need a multi-grade anyway. No debate on what oil to use please -- read your manual and use what it says. Again, do not scrimp on quality in this area -- think of how important the job oil must do and how little difference there is in price between the good stuff and the cheap. I use OMC Cobra oil in all the engine brands we store (it's SAE 30). Don't forget to start the engine and get the filter full again before checking the level (the engine should sit for a full minute after shut-off before taking the reading off the dipstick).

Fogging the engine..............

First, pull the flame arrester (breather), restart the engine and pour or spray in a storage fogging oil (OMC calls it just that). Not knowing what some instructions might say on some brands of fogging oil, you should do the following: Raise the idle to about 1500 RPM and begin spraying in the storage fogging oil in sufficient quantity to slow the engine to about 1000 RPM. This ensures you will get in as much oil without loading and stalling the engine in the process.

So what's this stuff do? It coats the intake, valves, pistons and cylinders to prevent rust and corrosion from taking their toll over the storage period. It's an absolute must if you want to keep your engine from seizing, especially if you plan on leaving it moth-balled for a long period of time.

After you have a good white smoke pouring out of the exhaust (and have injected about 8 to 10 ounces of fogging oil), simply grab the choke plates and close them manually to stall the engine (or simply have someone shut the key off). The reason for using the choke is that you can continue adding fogging oil while you do it. If you use the key, by the time you get out of the bilge and up to the dash, the engine will have cleared a lot of the fogging oil. Now it's time to get the boat out of the water (unless you've already got it out and were using a flushing attachment to get this far).


Changing lower unit oil..........

Let's start by lowering the drive(s) and draining the gearcase oil into a suitable container. Since we're trying to cover all the bases, here's at look at what we should be draining and where to find the screws on all brands (I'm not up on the newest Merc's, so those in the know feel free to correct or add to the post and I'll incorporate it for next time). BTW, if the oil is at all creamy or milky, get thee to a dealer or post back your troubles and I'll see what I can do to help.

1. OMC Stringer mount stern drives -- pre 1976 (the one with the big rubber boot in the transom): There are two reservoirs to drain -- the upper gearcase, and the lower gearcase (each is independent of the other). The upper is drained by a screw on the starboard side of the upper housing, and a dip stick in the top center. The lower gearcase is drained by a screw near the leading edge of the *bullet* and also one just above the anti-ventilation plate. Always fill from the bottom hole until it comes out the top one (or up to the proper level on the dipstick). New screw gaskets are strongly recommended for ALL screws.

2. OMC Stringer mount stern drives -- post 1976 (still the one with the big rubber boot in the transom): #1 above applies, but there are two more reservoirs that previously weren't drainable without disassembly. The first is the tilt clutch (the thing with the tilt gear sticking out of it) and the drain screw is located right on the bottom with a vent/level screw on the side about 2/3 up.

The other reservoir is a little tougher to find as it is within the intermediate housing that connects to the bell housing on the engine. The drain is accessed from the outside of the boat on the starboard side of the unit. It is located where the shaft runs through to the engine and looks just like all the others. The vent/level screw is located at the top of the intermediate housing and is easy to spot as it is much larger than all the other screws. Same filling procedure for these two reservoirs -- from the bottom up.

3. OMC Cobra 1986-1993 (the only really good drive on the market (grin)): There is only one reservoir (the upper and lower gearcase share oil). There are, however, three screws. The drain screw is located in the *bullet* at the bottom, and the vent screws are located midway above the anti-ventilation plate and at the top center in the form of a dipstick. Pull the top and bottom screw to drain, but refilling requires that you install the bottom screw first, then fill the entire drive from the middle screw only until you get the proper reading on the top dipstick.

** FAILURE TO FOLLOW THIS FILL PROCEDURE WILL MOST CERTAINLY RESULT IN UPPER GEAR FAILURE. **

If the unit is filled incorrectly, an air pocket will form inside the drive such that when it *burps* up at a later date, will result in the upper oil level dropping thus destroying the top gears. Trust me on this as I have made quite a bit of money on people who were unaware of this procedure (they now leave their boat in my care ). Again, new gaskets are advisable on the screws.

4. Older Mercruiser (MCM Ia, Ib and early Ic's): Same as #1 above (two reservoirs) -- one upper and one lower gearcase. Only difference is that the upper gearcase has top screw on the side and you fill it until it runs out there.

5. Most other Mercruisers (later Ic's, I, II, & Alphas): Common reservoir throughout with only a lower screw on the bullet and one at Same as #3 (Cobra) except that you don't have to worry about the air pocket problem and the top screw is at the side. Simply fill from the bottom until it comes out the middle, plug the middle, then continue filling from the bottom until it comes out the top.

6. Mercruiser Bravo (four models now I believe -- the Bravo I, II, III and the BlackHawk): Same as 5. except the drain the Bravo I is accessed by removing the prop -- it's at the bottom of the exhaust housing.

7. Volvo 280/290 (white): One reservoir , one bottom screw and one top (dipstick like OMC).

8. Volvo/Cobra SX 1994- 1997 (grey): Same as 3. (Cobra and Volvo manufacture this drive together)


So what lower oil should we use? On OMC electric shift models, you MUST use something called Type C (now called Premium Blend) in the lower unit only (absolutely no substitutes allowed, period). All other OMC reservoirs and models should be filled with Hi-Vis or the new Ultra-HPF synthetic. For Mercruiser use OMC Hi-Vis, Ultra-HPF, or Quicksilver Gearlube (or their synthetic blend). Volvo 280/290 originally called for SAE 30, but I strongly recommend moving to Hi-Vis or better yet Ultra-HPF. Volvo SX and Cobras use Ultra-HPF. My advice is to use Synthetic gear oils whenever possible. Actually, my stronger advise is to RTFM and see what it calls for -- I have seen engineering reports which shows gear and bearing wear is reduced up to 50% over conventional oil, and it does not break down under stress and heat like conventional oils. As for getting the stuff in, all manufacturers offer an inexpensive plastic pump which fits into the oil bottle. Count on using at least 70 ounces to completely fill any drive.


Annual drive maintenance....

While we're talking about drives, now's the time to pull it and grease the U-joints (OMC stringer mounts do not have them, so ignore this if you own one). First of all, this is a two person job for the inexperienced. In fact, I don't think this should be attempted the first time without someone present who has done it before:

On Cobra drives, remove the six mounting bolts and rear trim cylinder retaining shaft, the pull on the drive (careful, they're heavy! ) The grease nipples may have to be turned to 45 degree angles to get the grease gun on it. Use this opportunity to grease the gimbal bearing as well so you can see when it is filled. The nipple is located near the transom on the starboard side of the transom bracket.

Grease the splines of the *donkey dick* with OMC molly lube, and oil the shaft, o-rings, and outer diameter of the U-joints with oil to aid re-installation. Place a new gasket on the studs, and re-install the drive using a large screwdriver jammed into the U-joints to turn the shaft back and forth to get through the bellows and align the shaft.

All of this will be very clear when you have the drive off. If you're at all uneasy, a dealer will probably charge $30 to do it and may let you watch (I do). In fact, I will have the customer help if he likes so he can learn. Pulling the drive now on an OMC may also save some aggravation later. If the gasket hasn't sealed perfectly (and the early ones often didn't) the shift linkage pocket fills with water.

While the gaskets seems poor at keeping water out, it seems to do a good job of keeping it in and if this freezes, you'll get a nasty (albeit cosmetic) crack in the side of your drive. Pulling the drive automatically drains this pocket. If you're not going to pull the drive, you merely have to loosen it for this pocket to drain. Newer models incorporated a drain plug at this spot, but since I recommend pulling the drive to do the u-joints anyway, we won't have to worry about it.

On most Mercruiser drives, the same applies as above (including greasing the gimbal bearing) except the drive MUST BE IN FORWARD GEAR. Failure to put the drive in forward will not only make it tough to remove, but shift parts WILL BE DAMAGED if you succeed. For re-assembly, make sure the drive is in forward and use the prop to help align the splined shaft into the engine coupler. If you've got a Bravo drive, the shift requires a special release procedure and many of the new Merc's have sealed u-joints so unless you want to check bellows integrity, no need to be in here anyway. MAKE sure that the quad ring (4 sided circular ring, like an O-Ring) gets replaced and properly glued into place EACH time the drive is pulled.

Merc makes 3 different "Kits" for this purpose, MCM "I" drives thru 1984 (PRE Alpha drives) 27-64818A1 and 27-94996A1 for Alpha and The Second Generation Alpha (AKA GEN II) uses a different gasket due to the remote gear lube bottle. I will get that # if anyone is interested, just don't have it on hand at the moment.

On Volvo 280/290 drives, the U-joints are sealed and even if you wanted to get in there to check them, it's not for the back-yard mechanic. Leave this one to the pros.

All brands should have their bellows changed at least every five years. I've got plenty running on their original at twenty years old, and just replaced one the other day that failed after three years. Bellows replacement is not for the faint of heart so unless you have at least a basic idea of what to do, leave this to the pros. It's also harder to do in the cold so let's talk about it next spring when it's nice, but still early to boat.

As for impellers, one year, five years, ten years whatever. I've plenty still running on the originals, but I know there are plenty of maintenance freaks in here who like to do it annually. Whatever turns your crank IMO.

Back to the engine....

So what anti-freeze should we use? Technically, if an engine is drained properly, you don't need *any* anti-freeze (which is why you won't see it in the service manuals). Personally, I like to get anti-freeze in there to mix with any water that may have been missed, and to provide the inside of the block with protection from corrosion. Also, I use regular toxic ethylene glycol anti-freeze (mixed 50-50 with water) because it's just plain better at protecting your engine.

I do not, however, allow my stored engines out in the spring without removing it first and recycling it for use again next year. If you're just gonna start your engine next spring without removing the anti-freeze, obviously you should use propylene based non-toxic anti-freeze.

But before you do, bear in mind that while it may be non-toxic , (‘less' toxic actually) IT IS STILL ILLEGAL to dump foreign substances in the water, whether it is toxic or not. I do not tolerate such actions at my ramp and have little respect for anyone who does. If you've been guilty of such practices in the past, you know better now and should change your ways. Think about how irresponsible people are ruining it for all of us and if you see someone else doing it, report them immediately.

If you choose non-toxic anti-freeze, DO NOT USE PLUMBING ANTI-FREEZE. It attacks the rubber seals in the engine water pump and since it already comes ready to use it raises a raises a further concern -- What happens if it meets and mixes with a water pocket? It's possible the solution will be significantly weakened in this area of the block which may not provide the proper protection needed. Food for thought. An interesting side bar — even if you use non-toxic in the fall, it will BECOME toxic over the storage period due to migration of the nasties they're making those marine gaskets out of nowadays. I therefore repeat myself - get the stuff out before starting in the lake - it's toxic as hell anyway you look at it.
rEquipment: Flush muffs, antifreeze, mixing bucket with spout, funnel, large plastic container, Vaseline, plastic coated wire.

Start engine using flush muffs & allow to warm up. Stop and remove flush muffs and raise front of boat using jockey wheel so that bilge drains. Remove blue drain plus, two on each side (the one on the starboard lower side is most difficult. Use piece of wire, e.g. solid copper with sheath to clear any blockages but remember water will be hot particularly in the block (lower drains).

Mix approx. three galls of antifreeze.

Tilt boat back so that any water from overflow mixes with bilge water to stop freezing.

Remove intake tube from front port of thermostat housing and add antifreeze slowly because this pipe appears to have a restriction, until water flows out of intake.

Remove two tubes leading to manifolds. Pour in A/F & v quickly it will flow out of drains. Put plugs back in checking sealing surfaces and adding Vaseline as lubricant. Continue adding lubricant until it flows out of leg.

Remove large tube leading to water pump. Add A/F until it runs out of drains. Replace drain plugs and continue adding A/F until flows out of leg but do not overfill otherwise difficult to replace tube without making a mess.

Replace all of the tubes and replace clips.

By this time bilge will have some antifreeze in so tilt boat back up to drain.

Time to get that water out of your engine so let's locate your drain cocks. As a GUIDE line, here's where to look: 4 & 6 cylinder in-line engines: one drain on the block, one on the manifold (usually on the port side). 6 & 8 cylinder V-block engines: two drains (on each side of the engine) and one on each manifold (sometimes this is simply a bigger rubber cap and hose clamp).

Older Mercs (shudder) had a multitude of hoses and drains (the 888 causes me
to cringe).

These drains are usually brass cocks, but sometimes they are just threaded brass plugs (and are sometimes painted thus making them difficult to see). Always remove the whole thing (even if loosening appears to get the water flowing). There is a tremendous amount of rust and corrosion laying behind them and you must ensure that the way is clear for them to drain completely. I shouldn't have to remind you what will happen if you don't. The next part gets a little tricky because of the number of variations out there, so I'm going to stick with the basics and anyone with something different can post back and I'll offer advice on an as needed basis.

*Most* modern engines have a main line running from the water pump in the lower unit up to the thermostat housing. Find this hose first and remove it from the thermostat housing.

NOTE: There is absolutely no need to remove the thermostat housing to winterize your motor. The guy who told you this doesn't know what he's talking about. Are we clear on this?

Using a funnel, pour anti-freeze into this hose and keep going until anti-freeze comes out the water pick-up in the lower unit. The anti-freeze will not only push the water out, but it will also flush the power steering cooler (located in-line of this hose) and the water pump thus we kill three birds with one stone. Now there's no need to locate and attempt to undo the little plug on the collar -- trust me.

Next, remove the two hoses running to each exhaust manifold at the thermostat housing. Pour anti-freeze into the hose until it comes out the manifold drain cock, then install & tighten the drain cock. Continue to fill the manifold with anti-freeze until it comes out the prop. Repeat this procedure for each manifold.

Next, pull the large diameter hose from the thermostat housing (that connects to the engine water pump). Begin filling this with anti-freeze until it starts coming out the drain cocks. Install and tighten the cocks and continue filling until the block is full. Reconnect all hoses and tighten clamps. Anyone who has more hoses or isn't clear on what I've said, please post back and ask for a clarification as I will continually update this post for future release. Newer Volvos, some Mercs, and all straight shaft inboards have an engine mounted water pump. The smart people reading this will be able to apply what I've already posted to their situation. If dumb ones should ask themselves why they're attempting to screw with a very expensive part of their boat to save a few bucks.


Plumbing Systems.

First, let your taps run to drain the main holding tank (don't forget to shut off power to the hot water heater). Next, drain the hot water tank (small drain cock at the bottom and lever vent at the top). Remove both water lines from the tank and devise a method of connecting them together (using an elbow from the tank etc). The reason for this will become clear later.

Now go to your pressure pump and holding tank (they will be close together). If possible, remove the line that runs from the tank to the pump (at the tank end). If the line is long enough, merely redirect the line into a jug (or pot, or bowl) of plumbing anti-freeze. If it's not long enough, find a way of making it so. Turn on the power to the pump and open only one cold water tap until the system primes itself. Allow it to run until anti-freeze comes out the tap. Shut off the tap and turn on the hot water tap until anti-freeze appears (this will take slightly longer as the path is usually longer). Repeat this procedure for every tap (hot and cold done separately) and shower (and the toilet if it's part of the pressure system).
Don't forget about the ice maker in the fridge, the sink in the v-birth, or the shower or external tap on the stern of the boat. Make sure you keep your anti-freeze supply above the hose end to prevent you having to reprime the system. When you're done, turn the pump off and reconnect the line from the pump to the tank -- job done (leave the hot water tank by-passed until spring).

Now you're probably asking why we haven't put any anti-freeze in the hot water tank or the main water tank and the answer is simple -- we don't have to. Both tanks are sufficiently drained such that they will not incur any freezing damage, and by not filling them with anti-freeze, we don't have to worry about tasting the stuff for the first month(s) next year. Non-toxic or not, the stuff tastes and smells awful. To start the system up in the spring, merely fill the water tank with fresh water, open all taps one at a time to clear the anti-freeze, then hook up the hot water tank hoses again.

Now the system is completely purged of all anti-freeze ensuring no lingering smell or aftertaste. This method is not only quick, it's also the best way (by far) to winterize your plumbing. Stay away from marinas who merely pour gallons and gallons of anti-freeze into your holding tank. Not only will it get diluted by any leftover water (and thus not adequately protect) but the taste will linger forever in your water. My method will use less than 8 liters (2 gallons), where some marinas will use up to a case (or two) under their method.

Since the toilet is usually supplied from a sea cock (erotic sounding, eh?) in the hull, we must find and access it. Once found, undo the hose clamp and pull off the hose. If you're still in the water, don't forget to close the seacock.

Place the hose in the anti-freeze jug (engine anti-freeze works fine here and is cheaper to use). Go to the toilet and operate the pump until you have sucked out all the anti-freeze out of the jug and passed it to the holding tank (which you hopefully had pumped out while it was still at the marina). Reconnect the hose and you're done (leaving the sea cock closed if you're in the water, open if you're not). The floor is yours Peggy if you'd like to add more here.


Batteries.

I strongly recommend the batteries be removed entirely from the boat, but if you're one of those types who leaves them in, at least disconnect them (ALL CABLES). Turning the battery switch off is not good enough. Next, clean the
terminals and tops of the batteries as any moisture or dirt will allow cross discharge between the posts. The batteries should be stored in a cool, dry place. Warm humid storage will promote cross discharge through the air. Charge the batteries at least every two months. Watch your water levels and top up as necessary.

FYI, I store over 250 batteries in an outdoor building (unheated). I ensure the batteries are fully charged prior to storage, and charge them only once in January. I have yet to lose a battery over the winter and have had some last up to 9 years before I gave it the boot. A good battery will give a least five full years of service. One more thing to try and kill an urban legend: storing your battery on a concrete floor will not hurt your battery,
PERIOD.


Hull:

I'm gonna leave this up to you guys to yack about because it's more of a regional thing. Where I live, the water is clear and the algae growth minimal (God's country). We don't even bother cleaning the boats until spring, and even then, a good scrubbing and spray brings them back to nearly new.

I will recommend hydrochloric (muriatic) acid for those stubborn stains and water lines, but be careful -- that stuff is mighty toxic to the lungs and corrosive to skin. Apply it with a paint tray and roller, let stand for 10 minutes, then rinse off. Water will quickly neutralize the acid. Don't forget to store your boat bow high and remove all drain plugs. It would be a shame if you found a split hull in the spring (well, not for me and my fellow marina operators ).

If possible, store your tops in a warm place at home. While the new synthetics are quite durable, the older vinyls and viewtex (clear plastic) don't like the cold. Obviously, a good wash and rinse is recommended before storage. If the boat is going to be outside, it's not that tough (or expensive) to build a wooden frame (using the tent pole method with bailing twine to support). A suitable sized tarp is the best investment you can make and it can last for years if properly tied when on (to prevent flapping in the wind) and properly stored during the summer. Shrink wrapping is expensive, and not reusable.

Have I missed anything?

Now, about your bill...............

Happy boatin'

Dave Brown
Brown's Marina Ltd.


I would suggest the recreational boater interested in DIY freeze protection study BOTH methods before determining which is the best for their particular situation and skills. MANY professional mechanics and marinas do in fact utilize the wet method of freeze protection described below.

I've used the wet method for many years without problems and have yet to learn of a documented problem from others. As stated many times previously, if you know of a problem using the wet method please elaborate. Suspect most of us *have* heard the horror tales about novice boaters attempting the rip 'n dip method, forgetting something, and then losing an engine. The wet method is *far* safer for the average recreational boater to accomplish DIY winterisation.

The following is extracted from the I/O Winterising Checklist posted last year:

Self-winterising is not for everyone. I enjoy the work and the process provides a better understanding and detailed personal inspection of the equipment. The following method is safe, allows for winter boating, and the cost to re-winterise is minimal.

1- Clean & wax hull thoroughly

2- Fill gas tanks, and then add Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer to tanks. Follow directions on Sta-Bil container.

3- Lower unit service:

A- Carefully inspect lower unit and prop for any damage:

1- Most prop damage is repairable. (Take to prop shop if repair needed)

2- Cosmetic repair to skeg can be accomplished by using Grey MarineTex ($6) or Aluminox ($6), and spray cans of primer & paint from your local boat dealer (under $10 each).

B- OEM lower unit oil change:

Use lower unit oil change kit available from your dealer. Follow included instructions. Dave Brown has an excellent description of thisprocess on his website.

Remove prop if theft problem.

Every other year have dealer pull, inspect, relube, service, and apply new seals. While you could do this, it's inexpensive insurance against future problems and obtains a good second opinion about the health of the drive.

3- Oil change & filter:

A- Warm engine to normal operating temperature using lower unit earmuffs. Water flow from hose should be very low, as medium flow will not allow engine to reach needed temperatures. Ensure you have some flow at all times. This 'flow check' can be accomplished by using the Camco winterising kit in pass through mode.

B- When normal engine operating temperature is indicated on your temperature gauge, stop engine & water flow. Remove dipstick and use manual or electric pump to extract oil into a safe container. Take extra care to ensure thin and hard dipstick pump tube reaches the bottom of engine. Both manual & drill motor pump kits can be found at most dealers for around $10. More expensive pump systems can easily be found, but if patience and care are utilized, the inexpensive ones will do just as good a job. Suggest taking old oil to service station for disposal.

C- Remove old oil filter by putting H/D plastic garbage bag over filter and another plastic trash sack under filter and spread out to catch drips. Removing old filter with oil filter wrench. Place old filter & bag in a safe place out of the way. Then apply a thin coat of oil to new filter seal, wipe filter fitting clean, and hand tighten new filter. Do not over tighten.

D- Replace EOM engine oil using funnel (usually 5 or 6 quarts). Use dipstick to verify fill level.

This is a good time to check tilt & trim reservoir, belts, hoses, oil leaks, loose fittings or parts, & the overall cleanliness of the engine compartment. If something looks suspicious, repair or replace it. Keep that engine compartment clean.

4- Freeze protecting engine:

I use the Camco winterizing kit available from most boat supply catalogs for about $30. The Camco kit really simplifies freeze protection of the engine, and to my knowledge has never failed to fully protect an engine when diligent care was taken with its usage. The Camco kit uses 5 gallons of inexpensive RV antifreeze.

The procedure:

A- Pull flame arrester from carburetor. Re-warm engine to normal operating temperature using antifreeze FILLED Camco container sitting on swim platform or gunwale in bypass mode. Intake of container is connected to water source and the output goes to leg earmuffs. Hose pressure should be quite low to allow engine to reach normal operating temperature. Continually monitor the clear tubes that come with the Camco kit to insure water is flowing to the engine and has not been stopped by a faulty tap. Err on the side of caution when deciding when proper temperature has been reached, the thermostat MUST be open. When temperature gauge indicates normal engine operating temperature and you are convinced that the thermostat is open, turn the Camco bypass knob to shut off water and allow antifreeze to drain to engine. Use the entire 5 Gallons. When you get down to the last gallon of antifreeze start spraying the can of engine fogging oil into carburetor intake. Try to keep engine RPM steady. Shut down engine when Camco container is empty. You're engine is now freeze protected.

5- Plumbing & Air Conditioning Systems:

These must be freeze protected. The procedure varies from boat to boat and has been fully described in posts from Dave Brown, Peggie Hall, and others in this forum. I would defer to the experts here.

6- Battery and cold sensitive boat items. Last step in winterising is removal of any cold sensitive items stored on the boat and removal of the batteries. I store batteries in a heated basement and provide an occasional booster charge if needed.

7- Storage tips:

A- Block trailer if temperatures reach freezing.
B- Winter store with leg down.
C- Use plastic trash bag with tie to protect lower unit. Cut hole in bottom of bag to allow water drainage.
D- Heated indoor boat storage is best during winter months. Don't ruleout non-traditional means such as farmers with large barns or unused manufacturing facilities with adequate security protection.
E- Protect that boat against entry of pests. Seal hull openings
--
Skipper