I'm about to retire and am considering sailing to Greece from UK and stopping there. What's the weather like in winter and is it feasible to live aboard all year or just summer.
I'll leave the weather answer to others who have experienced it. I met a liveaboard last year who said he swam every day of the year, in reasonably warm water, at Kalamata.
Very many liveaboards over-winter in Greece. There are quite large communities of all-year boats at the expensive marinas and at the cheaper ones Kalamata and Missalonghi. Many stay at the free places such as Preveza town, Vliho, Trizonia. It is now becoming so popular that finding a berth seems to be becoming more difficult. Not much space on the wall at Vliho at the beginning of October, although still quite a lot anchored off.
Yes, many people live there all year around on their boats, particularly in the marinas such as Gouvia (Corfu), Levkas and the new one in Messolonghi. Some also moor up in smaller harbours or in the unfinished marinas such as in Preveza.
However, the winters are long and can be cold and wet. While the marinas are perhaps cheaper than South Coast UK, particularly if you just stay the winter, the general cost of living, particularly food and boat bits is higher than UK.
You also need to consider your social needs. If you are a hermit there are plenty of places you can lose yourself, but if you enjoy a social life then Corfu and Levkas will suit! Access to UK is OK in the summer but November to April is via Athens.
We moved onto our boat two years ago, starting in Lefkas in the Ionian where we stayed from August until December. We then moved 300 miles north to Montenegro, where we are still based.
The main problem with this entire area (Adriatic/Ionian) is that it is very wet over the winter. So make sure your boat is weatherproof, and doesn't have lots of annoying leaks. You will get used to the damp.
There are numerous vicious storms that come through making a happy life on anchor nigh impossible from November until April (we've tried it) - though this is probably true for much of the Med anyway. This means a town quay or a marina - so you will need to budget for that. In the Ionian, all of the usual mooring possibilities on town quays from mid October onwards become solitary affairs and the water/power is often turned off. Also, Med mooring with your anchor (as opposed to lazy lines) is not always safe in the wilder months as swells bounce your anchor out and it is often not well enough set (compared to simply anchoring) to deal with storms. We ended up having to jerry-can water to the boat from Nov onwards as there was nowhere to fill up. Also, Med mooring with your anchor (as opposed to lazy lines) is not always safe in the wilder months as swells bounce your anchor out and it is often not well enough set (compared to simply anchoring) to deal with storms.
It is cold at night - someone kindly gave us an electric blanket (only usable with shore power) which was an absolute lifesaver. And you will definitely need heating in your boat - if you are in a marina, a simple oil-filled radiator provides dry heat and is a cost efficient way of heating an entire boat (we are 44 foot).
I don't wish this all to sound negative as there are some lovely days too - but it can be wild, it can be cold and it is often wet.
Personally, and this is our plan for next winter, I would head further south in the Med for the winter months. We're lucky enough to have a free marina berth in Porto Montenegro for this winter but have also been offered to house-sit a fantastic villa for the worst winter months (things like this often come your way and after two wild winters, you soon lose any purist allusions) which is why we haven't ventured further south yet.
It is all totally do-able - you just need to be prepared! The first winter aboard, we were still on anchor in Tranquil Bay, Lefkas, until early December with no heating - the sleepless nights (noisy due to wind and storms) and the wet did start to get to us. We now realise that it was a bit crazy but it does make every other option seem like luxury.
The Ionian is very green, a bit like the lake district, the reason it is green is because we get rain in winter, lots of it! it is of biblical proportions! You have not seen rain until you spend winter out here. Last night we did not sleep, we had electrical storms raging from 11pm until 3am, the roads could not take it any more, all the water poured into the sea turning it a red/brown colour. Yet today we have Southerlies force seven, the temperature is 22c and sunny, but at the weekend the apocalipse shall return and we start all over again! Next week could be blue skies and 20c who knows. It is definately a warmer winter than the uk, but when you live here through the summer heat, the winter feels cold. This is from Kefalonia, Corfu tends to be slightly wetter, plus Corfu/Albanian border tend to get the snow before we do.
Take a jumper and a raincoat, sorted!
worked four winters in patras on a constuction site. then three winters in lefkada ,ashore in a cottage. then started looking for somewhere warmer, dryer for the winter months. now migrate to south india. kerala. for the winter. the rain is warmer. the thunderstorms are as bad until december. then usually four months of good weather. two months of sticky heat.then the monsoon starts. the monsoon is no different to the greek winter weather only warmer.but by that time we are back in greece for the summer. its a hard life.
Have spent many winters in Ionian and would be there now but for ill-health (not serious but a nuisance).We have also wintered at Porto Xeli, Xios, and Bodrum.
We find winters at Levkada enjoyable. The social life is not oppressing as it can be if you have a small number in port and one of them is too b---y hearty. One winter we kept cruising the area south of Levkas and into the Gulf of Amvrakia and didn't lay up at all.
The thing about Levkada is that it is a self-contained little town with almost everything you need and enough tavernas and kafeneons open all winter to amuse everyone.
Be careful of Port Vlikho in winter - strong winds descend from the mountains.
One year we had snow and lots of people went ski-ing.
Greece is nice when the Sunsail and Nielson tourists go home.
To Beormakate:
Many, many congratulations on finally getting Tim to make an honest woman of you!
It looks like you had a fabulous, if eventful, day; May you have many, many more happy years together!
The benefit of being at 38 n is that when the weather IS nice its so much warmer than that of 51 n - lunch on the patio today in shorts/t shirt ! its worth it !