window seal`s perpex

thegasmannick

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looking for some channel rubber seal`s to reseal my windows instead of a lot of siicone
they are aluminum frames with 6mm perspex in a 10mm x 12mm channel
any idea`s as all ive seen are not right and not cheap either so im on help in locating or suggestion`s if rubber is not the best and alternative is better they are small and big

thank`s ncik
 

VicS

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looking for some channel rubber seal`s to reseal my windows instead of a lot of siicone
they are aluminum frames with 6mm perspex in a 10mm x 12mm channel
any idea`s as all ive seen are not right and not cheap either so im on help in locating or suggestion`s if rubber is not the best and alternative is better they are small and big

thank`s ncik

Dont use silicone. Sikaflex 295UV is the stuff to use for acrylic glazing if you are going to use a "mastic". It wont affect the glazing and it is UV resistant

For rubber channels see Seals+Direct https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/index.asp

and/or HadlowMarine http://hadlowmarine.com/Pages/Seals indiarubber.html
 

Stemar

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After many attempts to get waterproof windows, I finally cut the channel off the frame, turning the h shape into an l, and fitted oversized panes on butyl tape, using the frame purely as a trim. Result - a dry boat for the first time in years
 

FlyingGoose

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Could not get any seals for my Windows 1977 boat(tried all suppliers) and used the 3M MARINE Product , sealed in front Perspex windows and looks great, but it
is a sticky nightmare so be careful:ambivalence:
Have also used Sikaflex as above and very good to
 

PabloPicasso

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After many attempts to get waterproof windows, I finally cut the channel off the frame, turning the h shape into an l, and fitted oversized panes on butyl tape, using the frame purely as a trim. Result - a dry boat for the first time in years

+1 butyl tape
 

stevie69p

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After many attempts to get waterproof windows, I finally cut the channel off the frame, turning the h shape into an l, and fitted oversized panes on butyl tape, using the frame purely as a trim. Result - a dry boat for the first time in years

This is what I would like to do to the wheelhouse side windows on my LM27 which I have tried to re-seal with limited success. How much of a job was cutting away the frame just to leave the outer part to be used as a trim piece? I had good success with using butyl tape on new acrylic for previous boat, so was just going to do the same this time but with added bonus of having a surround trim if I can re-purpose the frames...
 

Stemar

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This is what I would like to do to the wheelhouse side windows on my LM27 which I have tried to re-seal with limited success. How much of a job was cutting away the frame just to leave the outer part to be used as a trim piece? I had good success with using butyl tape on new acrylic for previous boat, so was just going to do the same this time but with added bonus of having a surround trim if I can re-purpose the frames...

Not hard, using a decent multitool with a metal cutting attachment An angle grinder would work too, but it's a brutal thing!.

Cut slightly proud of the "I" and smooth it off with a belt sander. I put some self adhesive neoprene tape between the trim and the perspex, and the inside was a bit of a mess, so I cut some thin ply trim. The order of things from the outside is old window frame, neoprene, perspex, butyl, cabin side, wood trim.

The countersunk fixing bolts go through everything, ending up with domed nuts on the inside and the gap between the trim and the persex on the inside is filled with a brown sealant - I can't remember what, but it turned out to be a decent match for the trim once it had a couple of coats of Woodskin on it (done before fitting)
 

stevie69p

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(snipped) Not hard, using a decent multitool with a metal cutting attachment An angle grinder would work too, but it's a brutal thing!.
(done before fitting)

Perfect. I had forgotten about how useful the multi tool could be. Only got a shot of one recently and found it to be very handy. I'm lucky that the frames also have an inner trim that can be re-used, so should be no need for making any trim pieces up for that. Thanks for the info / advice.
 
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