Windlass voltage drop

[jrudge]

I have installed a remote controlled chain counter. ( thanks to hurricane for finding it for me ).

The transmitter is in the chain locker and I connected it to he windlass supply as it is the only supply that is there.

The windlass works perfectly but the remote goes off line when it is used.

I put a meter on it and the recorded voltage falls to 3volts or so. Bear in mimd the windless is working absolutely fine.

It strikes me as it is possible this is quite normal. There is a virtual short circuit ( high current motor ) a few inches away

It could be a loose joint ( I have checked the high current box and all is fine ) but if this was the case I would also expect the windlass to be playing up.

The solution is of course an independent power feed but the whole aim of a wireless unit was to avoid taking the boat to bits

I want to install an anchor cam as well which was going to be a remote transmitter.

Any suggestions on how to resolve or alternatively how to run a wire on a s58 2004 with least effort !

Thanks as ever

 

[Hurricane]

I fitted mine earlier this year.
I don't have the problems that you have but I can understand the problem.
I connected my transmitter to the battery side of the solenoid (relay) switch that operates the windlass.
Presumably you had to do the same so that the device can control the anchor up/down.
On our boat, the relay is in the forward cabin so there is about 3m of high current cable before the actual motor.

I bought the hand held remote version but, in hindsight, I would have preferred the one you bought.
As a result, it isn't that practical to use.
The hand held unit needs to be switched on - then it takes about 3 seconds to communicate with the transmitter before displaying the amount of chain.
It then "times out" to save its battery.
I've set the "time out" period to the longest (about 2 mins).
SWMBO operates the windlass from the wired bow control so, by the time I've switched the remote on, and with all the other "stuff" going on when anchoring, there isn't time to use or look at the hand held remote.
I assume that yours stays active all the time (being powered from the boat) displaying the amount of chain out.
Switch on before it is needed and then just read it - that would be better.

But I never had the problems that you have.
Maybe move the transmitter.
What model is the windlass.
If it is a Lewmar - is it a V4 or V5 - the motors are very different.

 

[BartW]

3 volts drop over a long cable going to the batt's is not abnormal.
Find a separate and clean supply somewhere in the bow cabin. (+DC and Gnd but don't bridge that with the winch gnd nor +)

 

[longjohnsilver]

3 volts drop over a long cable going to the batt's is not abnormal.
Find a separate and clean supply somewhere in the bow cabin. (+DC and Gnd but don't bridge that with the winch gnd nor +)

Bart, op says current drops to 3V, therefore a 9v+ current drop!! But your advice seems sensible.

 

[vas]

Bart, op says current drops to 3V, therefore a 9v+ current drop!! But your advice seems sensible.

I'd expect an S58 will be 24V, so that's an amazing drop indeed
Anyone handy with low level el. theory (not me!) maybe a capacitor of sorts to ease out the dive when the winch takes everything from the cable?
TBH J, I bet there's something wrong up there. Clean contacts, check another VE point?
Ah, and how do you measure that, a digital multimeter or an analogue one? Digital wont be v.good with spikes and quick changes...

cheers

V.

 

[Hurricane]

My question about the V4/V5 could be relevant.
The motor for the V4 has three wires - the V5 just has the usual +24v and ground.
Do you have a V4 and connected the transmitter unit to the wrong cable?
If so, best to find the relay box.

My old V4 relay box looked like this before I upgraded