Windlass Only Turns One Way & Anchoring advice in Chi Harbour!

[Zagato]

I have an SL Anchorman windlass which only seems to go one way. Is it designed to only go one way, there is nothing in the manual about it letting the anchor out, just pulling it up!

I have only anchored once before in the Crabber with the CQR at East Head which was fine, hopefully the CQR will be OK at Chaldock and Pilsey. For those in the know, do you think I should use my Danforth as I presume Pilsey is muddy with weed similar to Chaldock where my Danforth holds fine in the Drascombe but will a CQR! Hope not to start a big debate on this but I will be single handed and would rather avoid getting into a pickle with the wrong anchor.

 

[prv]

Manual windlass, presumably? Yes, it only heaves up, like a winch. To let the chain out, you take it off the windlass and let it out by hand. It's a good idea to have a length of chain at least a couple of times the depth of water pulled out on deck in preparation. This makes absolutely sure that things will run out smoothly until the anchor's on the bottom, then you can pull directly from the chain locker to let out the rest of what you need. The chain can get a little snarled up in the pipe occasionally, and best not to have that happen while you still have 15kg of anchor hanging from one hand.

Kindred Spirit came with a big CQR, always set first time, and never dragged as far as I noticed. Yes there are better anchors available nowadays, but the Solent is really the CQR's home turf and it's been working fine there for many decades. I believe weed is one of the Danforth's less strong points (though as you found out, it usually works anyway) so I certainly wouldn't choose it over the CQR if that's the bottom you're expecting.

Pete

 

[NormanS]

I don't know the particular windlass, but I would expect that there is a way of disengaging the clutch, and letting gravity drop the anchor for you. Is there not a large"nut" holding the gypsy, possibly with 3 or 4 wings on it, which if slackened off, frees the gypsy?

I would never recommend running the chain out with your hands. Either anchor will be fine.

 

[Vara]

Yep, mine only lifts, I deploy the amount of chain I need to deploy on deck and lower by hand, engage on winch and put chain hook and snubber on chain to keep pressure off winch.

if you take winch apart you can see by arrangement of pawls that there is no provision for reverse, the big ratchet on outside of drum is to take pressure of pawls when under load.

i'm presuming this is the beast in question.View attachment 33485

 

[prv]

I don't know the particular windlass, but I would expect that there is a way of disengaging the clutch, and letting gravity drop the anchor for you.

I'm fairly sure my windlass (on a very similar boat to Zagato's, by the same builder) didn't have a clutch. It was a simple thing, no gearing, just the leverage of a winch handle turning a gypsy.

However, your post made me go and look, and from these instructions it seems the manual Anchorman that Zagato has does indeed have a clutch: http://www.lewmar.com/cms\assets\1\Literature/Anchorman_Manual.pdf . Hopefully those instructions will be useful generally.

I would never recommend running the chain out with your hands.

Don't forget it's only a 24' boat, with ground tackle to match. Plenty of people in small boats with no windlass handle anchor chains all the time. In calm weather I used to pull most of my chain in by hand too, as it was quicker and easier than using the windlass.

Pete

 

[Zagato]

That does look to be the one Pete but I didn't see any instructions for lowering the anchor as in ref '6.2 Anchor Release' in my manual. I would have thought I had the same one as Kindrid Spirits and putting the winch handle in the middle doesn't make it go into reverse. I'll have another look this weekend but dropping it by hand as you suggest looks the ticket.

I could try the single handed method by having the anchor in the cockpit with a the rope/chain going outside of the shrouds etc to the sampson post having been layed along the side decks. Another line is attached to the anchor before lowering which leads directly to the cockpit for retrieval. Sounds a possible method and much used but I think you would have to pre-determine how much rode to let out first so that it can be set up before you throw out the anchor! It would also make the cockpit messy with mud/weed and chain/rope everywhere.

Interesting what you say about the Danforth Pete, it did take two goes to get it to work and I had to let out near 7 times the depth. I thought the danforth would have been better for weed but thinking about it perhaps the CQR would be better, it could carve itself into the weed rather than trying to scrape into it. Using the CQR would be an easier option for sure. I'll let you know how I get on

Thanks also Norman & Vara. Yes should brace the load on the sampson post...

 

[lustyd]

I wouldn't worry about bringing the anchor back to the cockpit I anchor solo all the time and there's plenty of time to wander up and deal with the anchor since you'll have already stopped the boat by that point. You'll be fine with the CQR but may want to set an alarm and check after the tide turns if you're sleeping on it. One of the many advantages of modern designs is that you feel confident it will reset in the night rather than flop over and drag

 

[prv]

I would have thought I had the same one as Kindrid Spirits and putting the winch handle in the middle doesn't make it go into reverse.

Hmm. Kindred Spirit's windlass didn't have a winch-handle socket in the middle, only offset to one side. If yours has a socket at the centre, then it's different.

Incidentally, in case you weren't aware, the offset hole provides adjustable gearing of a sort. If you put the handle in so that it goes directly outwards, then you have a lot of leverage but it's hard to wind fast. If you take the handle out, turn it through 180 degrees and reinsert, so that it crosses over the centre of the drum, then you have less power but more speed. You can also use intermediate positions between the two, whatever's comfortable.

I could try the single handed method by having the anchor in the cockpit with a the rope/chain going outside of the shrouds etc to the sampson post having been layed along the side decks.

What for?

Just get things ready up on the foredeck before you enter the anchorage, then when you're in the right spot and travelling very slowly, put the engine in neutral, walk forward and lower the anchor. The boat will not suddenly zoom off on its own if you let go of the tiller. In fact, when you get to the foredeck you'll probably still have to wait a few moments for the boat to be drifting backwards or sideways instead of forwards. You want to lay the chain out drifting backwards, or sideways. Sideways is better in fact, because when the anchor digs in you will swing round to point at it and you know it is set. (Just because it's set doesn't mean you necessarily have enough chain out, so still let out what you'd planned to.)

This is all stuff you do from the foredeck, not the cockpit. Even when I had someone else on board I'd do the anchor handling up forward. I'd ask them to hold the tiller (instead of using the locked-off autopilot to hold it amidships) but to be honest they weren't really doing anything.

Yes should brace the load on the sampson post...

Yep, the samson post on Crabbers boats is great for making chain off to. Just wind on three or four turns. Do make sure that it's the inboard end of the chain on top - when you're letting out by hand in light conditions it's possible to get confused and start wrapping the inboard end, leaving the outboard end on top. When you come to let go and the outboard side is now heavily loaded, it's a bugger to get off.

Pete

 

[rob2]

The manual I have says (6.2) insert winch handle into central or offset hole and ease anticlockwise to control release of the chain... I haven't tried it though as it's easier to drop by hand, although it could be useful to let out extra rode should the anchor drag.

Rob.

 

[dulcibella]

What Rob2 suggests works fine on my powered Anchorman. However, I prefer to lay the chain out on the deck before dropping in caseof any hang-up in the cable locker.

 

[Zagato]

Well I do have the offset hole and do have the 6.2 Anchor release instructions - blowed if I can get it to go anti -clockwise though! No problem just let it out by hand.

I have just come back from 2 days playing around anchoring in Pilsey & Chaldock with the CQR (F4-5 on the nose for Bembridge trip so decided not to go!), to my amazement the CQR held fine in both anchorages, with strong wind gusts in all directions over tide the CQR held fine when being pushed or blown from one direction to the other, even when the boat went completely around the anchor in circles. I even had a two hour kip today I was so confident it would hold - think the soft mud was easy for the CQR to adjust it's grip.

So that's another exercise/experience crossed off the list, now a dab hand at anchoring

 

[Tranona]

Well I do have the offset hole and do have the 6.2 Anchor release instructions - blowed if I can get it to go anti -clockwise though! No problem just let it out by hand.

I have just come back from 2 days playing around anchoring in Pilsey & Chaldock with the CQR (F4-5 on the nose for Bembridge trip so decided not to go!), to my amazement the CQR held fine in both anchorages, with strong wind gusts in all directions over tide the CQR held fine when being pushed or blown from one direction to the other, even when the boat went completely around the anchor in circles. I even had a two hour kip today I was so confident it would hold - think the soft mud was easy for the CQR to adjust it's grip.

So that's another exercise/experience crossed off the list, now a dab hand at anchoring

It does have a clutch for letting the chain out freefall. It is probably stuck as the action of winding in tightens the clutch. put a 10" winch handle on it and bang the end sharply to unstick it. do that regularly and you will find it works OK - does on mine, anyway! When letting chain out you control the speed by turning the handle clockwise.

 

[Zagato]

Thanks 'T' will have a go next time down

 

[boatmike]

If it's the one I think it is the gypsy or windlass drum is held on to a taper by a nut that has slots in it that takes the winch handle. Slacken off nut and insert handle between body and gypsy and lever it off the taper to allow the anchor to run out free. tighten when sufficient rode deployed and winch will work normally again to recover.

 

[knuterikt]

I have an SL Anchorman windlass which only seems to go one way. Is it designed to only go one way, there is nothing in the manual about it letting the anchor out, just pulling it up!

I have only anchored once before in the Crabber with the CQR at East Head which was fine, hopefully the CQR will be OK at Chaldock and Pilsey. For those in the know, do you think I should use my Danforth as I presume Pilsey is muddy with weed similar to Chaldock where my Danforth holds fine in the Drascombe but will a CQR! Hope not to start a big debate on this but I will be single handed and would rather avoid getting into a pickle with the wrong anchor.

This windlass ? http://slspares.co.uk/pdf/Website Manuals/Instruction Manuals/Anchorman Manual.pdf
Look at section 6.2

 

[Zagato]

Thanks for that, the link was provided earlier in the thread Somebody else with a crabber has said theirs used to work and it has now seized so they obviously need a bit of TLC every now and then.

 

[knuterikt]

Thanks for that, the link was provided earlier in the thread Somebody else with a crabber has said theirs used to work and it has now seized so they obviously need a bit of TLC every now and then.

Stuff with movable parts exposed to salt water will normally need a lot of regular TLC..