Windlass Controls

[CPD]

So after many years (12+) of faithful service, my lofrans windlass has stopped working. I have :

Up/Down Switch : In anchor locker on straight wire which is plugged into a socket also in the anchor locker.
Relay : Simpson Lawrence 0052531 on bulkhead behind anchor locker
Circuit Breaker : Close to batteries - Lewmar 185070P 70 amp.

It all looks fairly aged/grotty, and there are some obvious changes that could be made to improve the system :
a - Remove joint in up/down switch cable.
b - Relocate breaker which currently sits in the companionway (open to elements).

For pecuniary reasons I am assuming the windlass itself is okay.

I guess the options are :
1 - Test each component, find the fault and replace.
2 - Replace all components to ensure longevity of service.
3 - Redesign according to latest standards / ideas.

At the moment my plan is set on doing a, b and 2. Is there anything in 3 that I should be considering ?.

I sail mainly single-handed and am not attracted to remote controls etc. I like to be at the anchor locker when it is all happening so I can keep an eye on stuff.

I am sure I have read somewhere that the relay is most often the culprit ?.

Any thoughts / ideas / comments welcome.

Many thanks.

 

[Tranona]

As a fellow single hander would not be without my remote. does away with the dangly cord and plugs. still allows you to operate from the anchor end. Doubly helpful in my case because I also have the bow thruster on the same control.

 

[Stemar]

Doubly helpful in my case because I also have the bow thruster on the same control.

I just know I'd end up dropping the anchor when I meant "Left hand down a bit"

 

[vyv_cox]

We have two control positions:
1. Deck buttons forward next to the windlass. We read that these can be unreliable but ours have worked perfectly for well over 20 years.
2. An up-down switch next to the Morse control. For stern-to berthing in the Med this is superb, probably the best aid I have ever installed. Gives me total control while Jill can concentrate on warps .

 

[Tranona]

I just know I'd end up dropping the anchor when I meant "Left hand down a bit"

They have nice little icons on the buttons to tell you which is which, although the Sidepower one I have is a bit ambiguous and I wired it so that left is down and right is up.

 

[dunedin]

I just know I'd end up dropping the anchor when I meant "Left hand down a bit"

Only done that once. Going into a tricky berth with shallows and rock a couple of boats length to leeward and needing to do sharp U turn to get into berth. So sharp I wanted to use the bow thruster to aid turn, but started dropping anchor instead.
Harbour mast had come to assist solo berthing, and thought I was going to attempt an old barge master anchor assisted turn

All ended well, but now try to remember to switch off windlass master switch if using bow thruster.

 

[Neeves]

With a previous windlass we found the solenoid to be a problem. Solved by taking it apart, cleaning the components and then re-assembly.

However you have told us the detail of the circuit and windlass - but have not mentioned if you have tested any parts of the circuit. If its grotty it could have failed anywhere - and we really cannot help (unless you test integrity of the various electrical components.

Many windlass don't actually fail - but they can seize up as a result of the shaft simply needing cleaned and greased. The gearbox can also seize, especially if its grotty - if it has no lubrication. You will find details of servicing if you check the instruction manual - they are pretty simple - though often inconvenient to access, unless you are one of the fortunate and have a pet monkey.

You say you assume the windlass is OK - can you turn it by hand, or rather with a winch handle.......? You should be able to turn the windlass with the clutch disengaged and lift the anchor and a metre of chain with the clutch engaged. If you cannot turn the windlass - your assumption was wrong and maybe a bit of lubrication will solve the issue.

Jonathan

If you reply ...... define which Lofran windlass, they are not unusual and someone will have the exact same model and then you might get chapter and verse.

 

[CPD]

With a previous windlass we found the solenoid to be a problem. Solved by taking it apart, cleaning the components and then re-assembly.

However you have told us the detail of the circuit and windlass - but have not mentioned if you have tested any parts of the circuit. If its grotty it could have failed anywhere - and we really cannot help (unless you test integrity of the various electrical components.

Many windlass don't actually fail - but they can seize up as a result of the shaft simply needing cleaned and greased. The gearbox can also seize, especially if its grotty - if it has no lubrication. You will find details of servicing if you check the instruction manual - they are pretty simple - though often inconvenient to access, unless you are one of the fortunate and have a pet monkey.

You say you assume the windlass is OK - can you turn it by hand, or rather with a winch handle.......? You should be able to turn the windlass with the clutch disengaged and lift the anchor and a metre of chain with the clutch engaged. If you cannot turn the windlass - your assumption was wrong and maybe a bit of lubrication will solve the issue.

Jonathan

If you reply ...... define which Lofran windlass, they are not unusual and someone will have the exact same model and then you might get chapter and verse.

I have the Lewmar pro 1000 model but everything I am reading points towards it being an electrical issue ??

 

[Tranona]

Your original post said Lofrans.

I had a Lewmar Pro fail - the motor stopped working. not difficult or expensive to replace. So first thing is to check whether you are actually getting power to the windlass - after cleaning all the terminals in the wiring.

 

[Neeves]

So....you can turn the windlass relatively easily by hand, winch handle. So it is not seized.

Now do as Tranona says and test the cleaned circuits for continuity, which based on our experience would include taking the solenoid apart and cleaning the components inside the case. (be careful when you disassemble, do it slowly so that you know how to put it together afterwards - they are simple but fly apart when you open the box).

When we upgraded to smaller chain we bought a new windlass. A Maxwell RC6/8. I installed, it worked a treat. A few months later I was singlehanding down the east coast of Oz and entered a tidal river to overnight. It was dark and the anchorage had a miscellany of yachts in the 'anchorage' - some without lights. The windlass did not work. Not a real issue and I dropped the anchor simply using the clutch and gravity. I contacted Maxwell by email and overnight they sent me a simple list of items to check (and a pdf of the instruction manual). This was support without equal, as it was a weekend between Xmas and New Year. In the morning I worked through the check list, one of the power cables to the solenoid was loose - I had not torqued it sufficiently.

Failure can be very simple - but not obvious (or not when you think you are infallible )

Maxwell, in NZ, have someone 'on duty' 365/24 - more people use a windlass at the weekend or holidays - so they plan accordingly. Gets my vote and unashamed support

So check you have power - at the windlass and between the controls, up and down, and the windlass

Jonathan

 

[noelex]

I have the Lewmar pro 1000 model but everything I am reading points towards it being an electrical issue ??

Most of these problems are electrical, which is fortunate because these problems are the easiest to fix.

If it is an electrical problem the most common are issues are loose connections, a defective solenoid or foot switch. Worn motor brushes are another less common possibility.

Circuit breakers rarely fail, but these are not designed to be exposed to the elements so a failure here is real possibility in your case.

A few minutes spent with a multimeter should be able to sort out if the problem is electrical and which component or components have failed.

Obviously the defective component will need to be replaced, but it is a good time to sort out some of the other issues that you have mentioned.

If you are cruising out of the way places it is worth considering how you can quickly solve similar issues in the future. Installing a second switch provides some redundancy. Personally, I have a wireless remote and a corded remote for my windlass. I can therefore still operate the windlass should one of these systems fail. If you don’t like wireless remotes (although many feel this is the best system) perhaps a foot switch and a wired remote would be a better solution, but two solutions are valuable so this is worth considering while you are repairing the system.

The solenoid is another common failure point. Many carry a spare solenoid. An alternative is to have a short jumper cable to quickly bypass the solenoid. This will not restore full functionality, but is a quicker temporary fix.