Wind vane to tiller connection

[KAM]

How do you connect yours. Mine is a short length of chain which slips over a peg. Was thinking of changing to an off the shelf rope tiller locking device. I was just wondering if anyone has tried this.

 

[dovekie]

We have used both the chain over a peg and a rope to jamming cleats on the tiller. Broadly equivalent I would say, the rope system gives slightly finer adjustment. Did you have a specific reason for considering changing?

 

[KAM]

The chain works well and I don't normally adjust the position very often. The peg is under the tiller so the chain doesn't drag when not connected but it's slightly awkward to see when re engaging. I usually just reach up and tweak the vane position. As we often sail in the lee of mountains there can be times when it would be easier if it could be adjusted at the tiller with a clutch. Laziness basically.

 

[V1701]

I used cam cleats, one on each side of the tiller. They have to be slightly offset or the screws would meet and the four holes that you'd be drilling in the tiller would weaken it if only a little bit. Worked fine with a Navik & a Hasler SP3 but if what you've got already works ok I think I'd leave it alone...

 

[Poignard]

This is the arrangement I have. The short length of chain connecting the Monitor tiller lines engagres in the slotted block.



In case anyone complains, I have shortened the overlong screws!

 

[KAM]

This is the arrangement I have. The short length of chain connecting the Monitor tiller lines engagres in the slotted block.

View attachment 130568

In case anyone complains, I have shortened the overlong screws!

I never used the slotted block as I found it very awkward to use. My arrangement is very similar to yours. I remade the aluminium autopilot fitting in stainless and extended it slightly beyond the autopilot pin. It then bends up slightly and the chain slots over the end. It does work well but it's a fiddle if you just want to move the chain along a link or two. I had toyed with the idea of a trim wheel like an aircraft which could just be turned slightly to adjust. One other thought was to offset the peg slightly from the tiller centreline to make it easier to see.

 

[Poignard]

I never used the slotted block as I found it very awkward to use. My arrangement is very similar to yours. I remade the aluminium autopilot fitting in stainless and extended it slightly beyond the autopilot pin. It then bends up slightly and the chain slots over the end. It does work well but it's a fiddle if you just want to move the chain along a link or two. I had toyed with the idea of a trim wheel like an aircraft which could just be turned slightly to adjust. One other thought was to offset the peg slightly from the tiller centreline to make it easier to see.

The slotted block as delivered is awkward, as you say. I improved it by rounding off the edges of the slot so the chain slots in more easily.

 

[SvenH]

I supply my systems with clamcleats and an eye plate. That allows using a single line where chain always connects both lines.
Using one line (the one that steers away from the wind) on windward cources removes jerking in wavy conditions, giving a smoother feel.

 

[Slowboat35]

I've used a few inches of stainless chain whose links just slip over the tillerpilot peg. If the turning blocks are ideally sited acceptable tension can be set while disconnected and the chain lying over or under the tiller and a few inches aft of the peg. To engage bring the chain forward and drop over the peg thus addding tension to the working level. A swipe of the hand and it disconnects and springs back aft where it doesn't affect tiller freedom at all. The autohelm peg in Poignard's picture would work in exactly the same way.

 

[Poignard]

[...] The autohelm peg in Poignard's picture would work in exactly the same way.

It probably would but I am happy with the-set up as is. Anyway thanks for the suggestion.

 

[eebygum]

I've used a few inches of stainless chain whose links just slip over the tillerpilot peg. If the turning blocks are ideally sited acceptable tension can be set while disconnected and the chain lying over or under the tiller and a few inches aft of the peg. To engage bring the chain forward and drop over the peg thus addding tension to the working level. A swipe of the hand and it disconnects and springs back aft where it doesn't affect tiller freedom at all. The autohelm peg in Poignard's picture would work in exactly the same way.

I think my setup is the same as you have described on my Sailomat system, which I’ve modified over the winter to smaller 6mm dyneema line, low friction blocks and a bar on the rear pulpit to get a better angle.

I normally engage to electronic tiller pilot when setting up up the wind vane and then disengage when aligned.

Not shown here is I use a short 6” piece of bungee cord under the tiller, attached either side to the chain to stop it popping over the autopilot pin.

 

[KAM]

This is my set up. Works well but its a bit of a fidget on a dark night sometimes the chain needs a twist to get the link on. Still thinking about the improvement.