Wind /Crete

[dougg]

Hi. We are in Crete, having travelled down from the Ionian.
It is very windy down here even in the lagoon at Spinalonga.
Is it unusually windy at the moment or is this how it is?
Also we don't see many other yachts at all, is the wind the reason why?
Or do cruisers just not come down this far?

 

[noelex]

It is a well protected bay so you will be safe with wind from any direction. It's further south than most crusers go in summer, so is less popular, enjoy the solitude. The only problem you have is this time of year most of the wind is from north. So most boats try to be further north this time of year and gradually travel south during summer with the prevailing wind.
Spinalonga is a great spot to spend winter, warmer than most of the med, and you can take advantage in early spring to travel north with the southerlies.
The only problem is you are there too early. Stay another 5 months and we catch up for a drink.

 

[little_roundtop]

I know Crete extremely well (we've been here the last 7 years) and this summer is much windier than usual. Typically we'll get fairly calm nights and mornings and then strongish (around F6/F7) winds in the afternoon during July and August. Typical Meltemi weather really.

This summer though we've been getting very strong winds (F7 and F8) through the nights, mornings and afternoons on a large number of days since mid-May, with the strongest winds in the afternoon of course. It's unusually breezy as I type this (10pm). I think the whole northern hemisphere has seen unusual weather so far this year?

Spinalonga Lagoon is especially gusty, the high hills around it accelerate and funnel the northerly and north-westerly winds and you can get some very serious blows in there, be sure your anchor is well in and with plenty of chain out. Despite what many people will tell you all the anchorages in there suffer from these gusts, it really doesn't matter where you are. Southerlies (rare in the summer) can howl through there because there's nothing to stop them, they come through over the isthmus.

Be very wary when you enter or leave if it's at all windy, there can be very strong downdrafts off the peninsula (where the wind farm is) on the south-east side just outside the entrance.

The good news is it's shallow in there, little more than 6m to 8m anywhere, so as long as you have plenty of chain out you'll not drag very far in the unlikely event your anchor does let go.

The marina at Agios Nikolaos (where I am) is busy but not full, so if it gets too uncomfortable in there pop round. It is just as windy here though!

Crete is not somewhere that you pass on the way to anywhere else, so everyone here has come here deliberately. One of the beauties of the island is that there are few yachts here, it's one of the few places where you'll be the only boat in most anchorages. July and August are the windiest months though, most winter liveaboards here (and the marina is full every winter) leave in May and don't come back until October. The calmest times weather-wise are May & June (though they were unsettled this year) and Oct & Nov.

You might want to download my Crete Pilot, it's been recently updated. You can get it free from http://dl.dropbox.com/u/25934908/Crete Pilot.pdf. I think you'll find it useful if you plan to stay here a while.

 

[capnsensible]

Had intended to call in last month on my way through to Turkey. Saw those northerlies and decided to just reach on across. Didnt fancy the uphill bit at the end!

There is always a next time!

 

[grumpygit]

We went for the most of September last year. Crossing from Rhodes we did the North coast, travelling East to West and then on to the Peloponnese.
Crete is a wonderful island without a doubt but I don't think we would sail it again in a hurry. It was a hard slog getting to the island and once there we always seemed to be going head to wind, also the seas were quite large which made the legs uncomfortable. There are few safe anchorages, the ports are also well spread out and most if not all do not offer all round shelter.
We did Sitia, which we quite enjoyed, Spinalonga was also enjoyable once you're in (we had whirlwinds at the entrance) apart from the crowded trip boats with their tannoyed music and loud dj's. Iraklion was fine but typical of a main port. Rethimno was a busy place but quite peaceful on the pontoons. Soudhas is ok for an anchorage, but beware when travelling this area that you check out that Missile Firing Range is not active because you are in the middle of it!!!
Khania is ok but the winds have to be right, a lot of the ports along this coast are open to uncomfortable surges.
Time is also something to be considered. We experienced plenty of yachts needing to leave, but had to wait or return after departing because of the sea/wind conditions.
I don't think we went at an unreasonable time for the conditions we encountered, let's just say unlucky. I'm sure if our trip was more pleasurable we might take a different view, but it was an experience.

 

[dougg]

Grumpgit.
I am of the same opinion ad you at present, we are dreading our passages back up to Athens as I see it head to wind all the way, not to mention a big head sea.
We were going on to Rohdes and the Marmaris but the thought of going back west puts us right off.
We don't see an easy way out.

Round top.
Thanks for your post and will download it in a few mins, I'm sure it will make good reading. Also will try to pop down and see you for a chat. Are you based in there all he time? Worse comes to the worse ill bike down!
We have moved up to the north of the j
Lagoon and picked up a buoy out side the big flash resort, it's a whole lot less gusty here.
Thanks

 

[little_roundtop]

Round top.
Thanks for your post and will download it in a few mins, I'm sure it will make good reading. Also will try to pop down and see you for a chat. Are you based in there all he time? Worse comes to the worse ill bike down!
We have moved up to the north of the j
Lagoon and picked up a buoy out side the big flash resort, it's a whole lot less gusty here.
Thanks

We have an annual berth at Agios Nikolaos and we'll certainly be in the marina here until the end of August. We're on B4 if you come down, you'll be most welcome! It's much too far to cycle I think. Check out the road out of Elounda to the south, that's the road to Agios Nikolaos and there is a BIG ascent and descent over the pass in between. Not nice on a bike, trust me!

Favourite ways off Crete are from Spinalonga to Astipalia, it's 80 miles and it will probably be a beat through lumpy seas. Rethimnon to Santorini is also popular, it's about 75 miles and a little less of a beat. It's often less windy at the Chania end of the island and the Meltemi is usually a NE wind at that end, so Chania to Monemvasia (75 miles) is also possible.

 

[Davy_S]

The last time we were in Crete we chartered, We spent an enjoyable time up the river near Georgiopolis, there was only one yacht moored there.
We swam with small Turtles and found quite a big whirlpool, we put the craft into it and swirled round and round for ages, we were shallow drafted and had a low airdraft, this enabled us to go underneath the road bridge.
Anyone hazzard a gues at what we chartered?

 

[little_roundtop]

The last time we were in Crete we chartered, We spent an enjoyable time up the river near Georgiopolis, there was only one yacht moored there.
We swam with small Turtles and found quite a big whirlpool, we put the craft into it and swirled round and round for ages, we were shallow drafted and had a low airdraft, this enabled us to go underneath the road bridge.
Anyone hazzard a gues at what we chartered?

I've not dared go anywhere near there because it's flippin' shallow, so I'm guessing it was a little runabout with a small outboard?

 

[Davy_S]

 

[grumpygit]

Grumpgit.
I am of the same opinion ad you at present, we are dreading our passages back up to Athens as I see it head to wind all the way, not to mention a big head sea.
We were going on to Rohdes and the Marmaris but the thought of going back west puts us right off.
We don't see an easy way out.

I would think going to Rhodes (via Karpathos/Kasos) will be one hell of a fight, if you do, take care at the SW tip of Rhodes, the seas can be tricky and there always seems to very strong gusts even with little wind forecast.
Going West is a fight also, if conditions prevail this would be my choice, but you have to do the length of Crete first with being in Spinalonga. If you do, plan for Kythera, choose your weather opening well and put in a night sail , it may be a tad quieter with the winds.

There is as little roundtop say's

Favourite ways off Crete are from Spinalonga to Astipalia, it's 80 miles and it will probably be a beat through lumpy seas. Rethimnon to Santorini is also popular, it's about 75 miles and a little less of a beat. It's often less windy at the Chania end of the island and the Meltemi is usually a NE wind at that end, so Chania to Monemvasia (75 miles) is also possible.

Out of these I would attempt Astipalia, you'll find shelter there to recover!! Santorini and Chania offer little other than the main ports for shelter, which may/will be busy. Milos or Folegandros is another option people take.
It all depends on how much time you have waiting for a weather opening. Leaving Crete's waters is always going to be a challenge and the further you get away the better it should become. Whatever route you take is going to be difficult, you'll just have to choose your poison I'm afraid.

 

[little_roundtop]

Just in case anyone was thinking of coming to Crete and is put off by the current exchange of views and information about the weather here, let me just say that Crete is not some sort of "Hotel California" that you can never leave.

The weather here is pretty similar to the Cyclades in July and August, indeed the whole of the Aegean is a wind tunnel in July and August! Crete is a delightful place with many safe ports (especially on the north coast) and many safe anchorages. In most anchorages you will probably be the only yacht there, even the very popular anchorages (like Spinalonga Lagoon, for example) rarely attract more than four or five yachts at a time.

Crete is steeped in history and there are more places to visit inland than you can shake a stick at. You will find Minoan (late Bronze Age), Venetian, Arab, Ottoman, Roman, Christian, and early Greek settlements all over the place. Cretans are particularly friendly and you're pretty much guaranteed a welcome wherever you stay, but the remoter places are likely to be even more welcoming than some of the larger towns and ports.

The geography is extremely varied, from the fairly flat coastal plains on the north coast to the very steep-to southern coast. The mountains here are well over 2000m high, Psiloritis (the highest) is taller than Snowdon standing on top of Ben Nevis! The hiking and hill walking is exceptional with many dramtic views. There are also over 30 gorges large and small, including what is reputedly Europe's longest - the Samaria Gorge.

The best times to visit are May and June and October and November, even into early December it's relatively calm here. Late December through to March we get some wicked southerly and northerly storms, it rains from January through to mid March, then the weather gradually settles during April. July and August we get the Meltemi of course which does indeed bring big winds and big seas.

If you really want to see the island properly then come for the winter. Rethimnon is safe and has a small, but growing, winter lievaboard community. Agios Nikolaos is also safe and has a very cosmopolitan and very active winter liveaboard community with weekly mountain walks, a music group, an international choir that welcomes new singers, an art group, Sunday BBQs, a computer club, quiz nights, and countless improptu dinners on board and in local tavernas. Around a third of everyone who stays here for the winter comes back again the next year.

Crete is a gem, don't be put off coming here, but it's probably not wise to come in July and August!

 

[7htas]

Just in case anyone was thinking of coming to Crete and is put off by the current exchange of views and information about the weather here, let me just say that Crete is not some sort of "Hotel California" that you can never leave.

The weather here is pretty similar to the Cyclades in July and August, indeed the whole of the Aegean is a wind tunnel in July and August! Crete is a delightful place with many safe ports (especially on the north coast) and many safe anchorages. In most anchorages you will probably be the only yacht there, even the very popular anchorages (like Spinalonga Lagoon, for example) rarely attract more than four or five yachts at a time.

Crete is steeped in history and there are more places to visit inland than you can shake a stick at. You will find Minoan (late Bronze Age), Venetian, Arab, Ottoman, Roman, Christian, and early Greek settlements all over the place. Cretans are particularly friendly and you're pretty much guaranteed a welcome wherever you stay, but the remoter places are likely to be even more welcoming than some of the larger towns and ports.

The geography is extremely varied, from the fairly flat coastal plains on the north coast to the very steep-to southern coast. The mountains here are well over 2000m high, Psiloritis (the highest) is taller than Snowdon standing on top of Ben Nevis! The hiking and hill walking is exceptional with many dramtic views. There are also over 30 gorges large and small, including what is reputedly Europe's longest - the Samaria Gorge.

The best times to visit are May and June and October and November, even into early December it's relatively calm here. Late December through to March we get some wicked southerly and northerly storms, it rains from January through to mid March, then the weather gradually settles during April. July and August we get the Meltemi of course which does indeed bring big winds and big seas.

If you really want to see the island properly then come for the winter. Rethimnon is safe and has a small, but growing, winter lievaboard community. Agios Nikolaos is also safe and has a very cosmopolitan and very active winter liveaboard community with weekly mountain walks, a music group, an international choir that welcomes new singers, an art group, Sunday BBQs, a computer club, quiz nights, and countless improptu dinners on board and in local tavernas. Around a third of everyone who stays here for the winter comes back again the next year.

Crete is a gem, don't be put off coming here, but it's probably not wise to come in July and August!

Sold!

 

[jimbaerselman]

Roundtop puts it beautifully. The north coast is an interesting cost of passage with sufficent ports and anchorages to allow day sailing, and several "must sees" en route. My favourite visits (W to E) were Gramvoussia, Chania, Knossos, Spinalonga and Sitia, with a couple of anchorages between.

Yes, the towns are more tourist oriented and expat settled than in much of the rest of Greece. But the warm winter climate is the reason.

The northerly pattern of winds is interesting. The start of a northerly session usually has quite a bit of east in it. Then it backs back slowly through until it's mainly NW. So watching your weather windows, and having time to wait, means you can often choose a close reach to Monemvassia, Kythera or Elafonisos one way, or a couple of days later a close reach to the east.

Whether that's been true of this season' s early big winds is another matter! Today is our first big lull in Methoni for a few weeks!

 

[dougg]

LRT. Thanks we will pay you a visit tomorrow if that's ok.
Just found the bus stop whilst having a beer and an Internet!

 

[MASH]

Whats the feeling on Kos to Crete (Ag Nic) and back in October? At first glance it looks as if it should b a reasonable reach both ways, is that realistic?

 

[little_roundtop]

Whats the feeling on Kos to Crete (Ag Nic) and back in October? At first glance it looks as if it should b a reasonable reach both ways, is that realistic?

Yes it is realistic. You shouldn't have any major wind problems, the Meltemi will have long gone by then and the weather is generally fairly settled in October. You might get a few days with not enough wind to sail, but you should also get relatively calm seas and they're generally the big issue around here.

It's a fairly long stretch (130 miles) and there isn't really anywhere close to run to for shelter if unexpected weather pops up. Most people who over-winter here come back in October and I wouldn't expect you to have major problems going both ways at that time of year, it's calm through November usually too.

That said, last year October was much less settled than usual, not stormy or terribly windy, but cloudier than usual and with more wind and choppier seas than usual. So no guarantees.

Be sure to book space at Agios Nikolaos Marina (+30 28410 82384) and http://www.marinaofaghiosnikolaos.gr/ because the winter liveaboards will be starting to return then and the marina is always completely full over winter.

 

[jimbaerselman]

In a normal season, the northerly wind strengths drop from mid-September onwards, and by mid October periods of unsettled weather lasting two to four days will have started to pass through the area.

Periods of unsettled weather are usually well forecast.

During the unsettled weather there may be some very vicious winds, normally associated with groups of thunderstorms. These may blow from unpredictable directions for relatively short durations

Unsettled weather caused by the arrival of frontal depressions can bring very strong winds from any direction, and may last for a day or so. This can build up a big seaway.