No, It's solid.Is it hollow? If so it may have filled with water.
If it's a lift keel version , the rudder will have to be bigger. The Anderson 22 is a lift keel and has a wooden rudder which is quite heavy. Yours may be like this.
Not unusual. Even our blade is pretty heavy. Its like a big dinghy rudder, pivoting blade in a stainless stock, but still weighs a lot. Many other parts are clearly built for lightness, but the foils are built for strength.When removing my rudder I lowered it onto an upturned bucket, which it immediately crushed.
It has to be heavier than it's displacementThe rudder for our 19874 FoxTerrier 22 is really heavy - not weighed it, but I'd say it's somewhere between 30 and 40kg.
Why? I know a rudder has to be strong, but was it just the way they were built back then?
I'm wondering how hard it would be to fabricate a lighter one with ply and GRP...
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I don’t think that is so. It might help, if it were to be hung on pintles with no means of retention apart from gravity, but that would surely be the height of foolishness. Ours is definitely heavier than water, but as it’s held down by a powerful downhaul system, it wouldn’t matter if it wasn’t. I think it’s built around a thick stainless web, and has a lot of grp making up its solid shape. All for strength, not to make it sink. A simple transom hung rudder could be bolted or pinned onto it's pintles, no need to be heavy apart from it's need for stiffness and strength.It has to be heavier than it's displacement
I was thinking more on the lines of buoyancy, "trying to float" will surly attempt increase the heel angle, or create instability when heeled in a heavy sea.I don’t think that is so. It might help, if it were to be hung on pintles with no means of retention apart from gravity, but that would surely be the height of foolishness. Ours is definitely heavier than water, but as it’s held down by a powerful downhaul system, it wouldn’t matter if it wasn’t. I think it’s built around a thick stainless web, and has a lot of grp making up its solid shape. All for strength, not to make it sink. A simple transom hung rudder could be bolted or pinned onto it's pintles, no need to be heavy apart from it's need for stiffness and strength.
A question of scale. 10kg of buoyancy against a ton of boat? And that would be a big fat and light rudder.I was thinking more on the lines of buoyancy, "trying to float" will surly attempt increase the heel angle, or create instability when heeled in a heavy sea.
It might be fun using 3d printing for a newThe rudder on my Anderson 22 is similar in shape to the OP's picture and is solid iroko so not light at all. Possibly this one is also Iroko.
I had considered making a composite one, using closed cell foam and carbon fibre cloth, designed on the principle of trying to maintain strength but reducing weight. It started to look expensive!
Normal plywood has half the veneers going in a direction the does not help stiffness in a rudder, also it sucks water into the end grain and rots fast, plus is not low density so still heavy.
Maybe a lower density wood (spruce perhaps), with hardwood leading and trailing edges, all sheathed in glass cloth would be sufficient. Probably one of Gougeon Brothers technical guides has a scheme.
I can assure you its not much fun when they breakIt might be fun using 3d printing for a new
rudder and then fill it with a material of choice
I would guess that most conventional rudders would sink if you took them off the boat .
I'm not arguing your point, however 10 kg of buoyancy is quite a lot when you are trying to sink it with a fulcrum point well above the centre line..A question of scale. 10kg of buoyancy against a ton of boat? And that would be a big fat and light rudder.