white lead

stevelodge

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can someone tell me the pros & cons of using white lead as opposed to modern materials. what are the correct proportions for a good putty
 
I've used it mixed in with linseed oil putty, for topside seams. Proportions are in Worth; I'll have to look them up, but from memory one part white lead paste to two parts linseed oil putty.

Red lead powder added in place of white below w/l.

Definitely would not use any modern magic gloops to pay caulked hull seams.
 
By experience only as I am not an expert. I have a wooden sloop that I have raked out all the seams and re-caulked with white lead putty above and red lead putty below the water line. She was out of the water for 12 years and after only a minor leak and 6 weeks afloat she is now watertight. While cleaning out the old putty I came across part of the boat that had ben caulked with white sikaflex type stuff. I got hold of one end of stuff and pulled it out from the seam in a long rubbery strip. You can't do that with putty! Old or new wood putty sticks like s**t to a blanket. Sika has a real problem sticking to old wood. Furthermore the use of linseed oil in the mix can only be good for the wood. I will always use the traditional stuff because I know it works and is inexpesive, does not go off in the 'tube' and can be mixed on small and large quantities.

Coventry Boat Builders sell the ingredients, as do Starbuck Chandlers in Gravesend (not the coffee shop!)

Good luck
John
 
Pros and cons

I agree with everyone else; use white lead putty not modern gloop.

The modern stuff either sticks like a limpet to the wood and pulls splinters off teh edges of the seam, unless you cut it out very carefully with a sharp knife, or it fails to stick at all and can be pulled out in strings.

Very often, it does both.
 
Although my wooden boat is strip planked it sounds like this would be great for the keel to deadwood and other non-glued seams. I have just replaced the deadwood in White Oak from one log, portable saw mill sawed. I have white lead putty from Kirby here in the states. Would this be okay for below waterline? I called "DAP" who make our putty called "Glazing Compound 33" on the can and they said it was Calcium Carbonate, Whiting (talc?),Linseed, Soy and Mineral Oil and Mineral Spirits. Does it sound like your type of putty? What is the difference between the two lead products besides the color? I used red lead paint for the bottom which sounds like I'm headed in the right direction but Kirby doesn't list red lead powder? If I ned the red lead, I'll order it from one of the sites you guys kindly posted. Finally, would it be a good idea to mix some of the white lead paste, thinned, to a newer primer/undercoater such as Interlux (International) PreKote for the topsides??

You guys are great! Thanks for the help,
Best, Steve
 
Thanks to you all for my first piece of advice -I have just purchased a 60', 56 ton old fishing boat that has been converted and is currently moored in barcelona. There will be a lot more questions as this is my first boat! Steve
 
I used to mix red lead paint with my putty worked very well. I could use it to stop a leak from a skin fitting that had softend the wood around it without the putty liquidising in the water as i was afloat!

For some years now i use just the putty as it comes and sometimes add just a bit more linseed oil. Be very sure to check what oil your putty has, as linseed dryes other oil dosent.

Im a bit off lead at the moment as some fool painted the lockers in my current boat with lead paint and its hell to get off!!
 
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