which rope cutter

Plain disc cutters work, and are the easiest to fit and least likely to break. If you have April Yachting Monthly, look at the photo on page 75 to see the tangle of rope that mine cut through. Cut rope will often remain around the prop whatever cutter you have, but the important point is that a plain disc cutter will get you free. In fact the quantity of rope in the picture shown was only part of it, as some sank when cut off the prop. The thickest bits were 16mm braid on braid.

I have heard nasty rumours of some of the more complicated cutters suffering breakages, possibly due to moving parts coming into contact.
 
I'm with Norman E. I had an Ambassador Stripper, it picked up two ropes and each time ripped the static part out of the P-bracket. The second time it didn't even cut the rope. I replaced it with a Prop protector, which did virtually as well in the YM tests and would avoid this problem.

I still have the majority of the Stripper, with new bearings but minus the static part. It's looking for a good home. 1" shaft.
 
That's bad news about the stripper as I was going to fit one. I have a disc cutter that didn't help at all in my two recent episodes. Completely ineffective.
 
Ambassador Stripper - the static part shouldn't rip out if it's properly fitted.

I suspect the problem to be that modern P-brackets have the minimum amount of material they can get away with. The bolts provided with the Stripper have a coarse thread, which in such a thin bearing housing in the bracket give barely more than one thread of contact. Mine were fitted perfectly well. In the first case there was a possibility that the metal of the bracket was dezincified but the second one was a new replacement, with the Stripper block being fitted in my workshop before the bracket was put in the boat. It seems to me that the only option is to drill and tap right through the cutless bearing brass but I didn't think that best for the bearing.
 
Rope cutter

I have fitted the Ambassador type, however I didn't like the look of the static part fixings. I used the clamp type and have not regretted it.

I agree that modern p brackets may not have the depth to get a decent threaded fix.

ambassador were really helpful as I bought the unit from ybw for sale site thinking 30mm was same as inch and quarter, they swapped it for me. Very pleased with their service.
 
It seems to me that the only option is to drill and tap right through the cutless bearing brass but I didn't think that best for the bearing.

We recommend drilling and taping into the bearing or bearing carrier, never had any issues of pulled out bolts or damaged threads. Just make sure the bolts are well clear of the shaft. As a bearing supplier we're happy with that approach.

I just suggest that any one looking at cutters does some research, as they are expensive and you need to lift the boat so it isn't something you want to do twice.

There are three distinct types disc, scissor and shaver each operating in a unique way, what one cutter will clear another type may not, or what will damage one cutter may have no effect on another.

Some are less suitable for some of the long hub feathering props so your choice may be limited by the type of prop. carrying a spare or a spare blade is an idea but we've seen commercial boats still using the same set up for 5 years with no maintenance, so probably not needed. Fleming explorer yachts take spare blades but as yet have never use them.
 
I fitted an Ambassador Stripper and can confirm that it works - one of my genoa sheets is now 2 metres shorter! It happened when moving up to a mooring bouy with the engine just ticking over in gear. It stopped the engine and cut the rope. Didn't do any more damage but I did put it on the scrubbing posts to check soon afterwards.
When fitting my static part there was plenty of material in the 'P' bracket so didn't get the problems mentioned earlier.
 
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