Forbsie
Well-Known Member
I'm about ready to start replacing the planks on the topsides. Does anyone have any recommendations for any specific primer to use on the larch boards and oak beams?
Which primer?
- Thread starter Forbsie
- Start date
old_salt
Well-Known Member
I have used "chlorinated rubber primer" from these people Nice to deal with knows his stuff:- here
and
Quote from off his web page:-
Metaclor C.R. Primer
This primer is available only in grey. It is a chlorinated rubber primer. Wonderful waterproofing characteristics, easy to use and on two coats will cover black seams ready for two coats of Antifoul. It is also very good to give a coat of this prior to new anti fouling paint. Provides an excellent barrier coat between old and new antifoul. I have used this product for some years now.
C.R. is not new tech as it has been around for over 15 years. I prime everything with this product.
Grey
5 Ltr £53.50
2.5 Ltr £32.50 See Offers Page!!
this paint:-
Hope this helps.
and
Quote from off his web page:-
Metaclor C.R. Primer
This primer is available only in grey. It is a chlorinated rubber primer. Wonderful waterproofing characteristics, easy to use and on two coats will cover black seams ready for two coats of Antifoul. It is also very good to give a coat of this prior to new anti fouling paint. Provides an excellent barrier coat between old and new antifoul. I have used this product for some years now.
C.R. is not new tech as it has been around for over 15 years. I prime everything with this product.
Grey
5 Ltr £53.50
2.5 Ltr £32.50 See Offers Page!!
this paint:-
Hope this helps.
Mirelle
N/A
1. Red lead. You have to promise not to let children play with it and you should not lick your fingers whilst putting it on. Four coats, first two thinned. Paint maker near Lowestoft does it but you have to collect. If replanking on an industrial scale, worth while.
2. For the rest of the time, Blakes grey primer seems pretty good. Again, four coats, first two thinned.
2. For the rest of the time, Blakes grey primer seems pretty good. Again, four coats, first two thinned.
Forbsie
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Paint maker near Lowestoft does it but you have to collect.
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm afraid that's out of the question. Lowestoft is too close to Beccles which would mean that I would have to drink with h00 and his swimbo, Theresa - dangerous in the extreme.
Paint maker near Lowestoft does it but you have to collect.
[/ QUOTE ]
I'm afraid that's out of the question. Lowestoft is too close to Beccles which would mean that I would have to drink with h00 and his swimbo, Theresa - dangerous in the extreme.
alb40
Well-Known Member
Agreed - Red lead or blakes primer.
I used the blakes one on my recent work, stuck like sh*t to a blanket.
On the other hand, the hull of my boat is done in Dulux weathersheild's finest
I used the blakes one on my recent work, stuck like sh*t to a blanket.
On the other hand, the hull of my boat is done in Dulux weathersheild's finest
joliette
Well-Known Member
I'd recommend International Primocon. I applied several coats of this, about two years ago, on the exterior planking (teak and mahogany) below the waterline. After a good pressure wash at the last haul out, two weeks ago, it was the only thing left clinging and 99% intact. However, you do need to FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S RECOMMENDATIONS regarding surface preparation and application, including the correct number of coats (several are required, which is not cheap!), if you want a good result.
Bejasus
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
I'm afraid that's out of the question. Lowestoft is too close to Beccles which would mean that I would have to drink with h00 and his swimbo, Theresa - dangerous in the extreme.
[/ QUOTE ]
Oi!! I'll have you know tha..............................ach, forget it. Yer probably right. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I'm afraid that's out of the question. Lowestoft is too close to Beccles which would mean that I would have to drink with h00 and his swimbo, Theresa - dangerous in the extreme.
[/ QUOTE ]
Oi!! I'll have you know tha..............................ach, forget it. Yer probably right. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Bejasus
Well-Known Member
[ QUOTE ]
Paint maker near Lowestoft does it but you have to collect.
[/ QUOTE ]
Mirelle, I take it you mean these.
However, I can't see a Red Lead Primer in their catalogue, unless it is called something else these days. I didn't think you could get the real stuff anymore these days.
Paint maker near Lowestoft does it but you have to collect.
[/ QUOTE ]
Mirelle, I take it you mean these.
However, I can't see a Red Lead Primer in their catalogue, unless it is called something else these days. I didn't think you could get the real stuff anymore these days.
Mirelle
N/A
I do indeed. Friend who owns large smack which he rebuilt from "something slipping below the mudline" sings their praises. He has a means of getting red lead from them but who he chats up is his secret. I notice they make a quick drying red lead primer for metal and I think he gets it with the driers left out.
Bejasus
Well-Known Member
Gordon we will be coming down to Gatwick area on 31-July on our way to the US, if you want some paint delivered.
Mirelle
N/A
Forbsie
Well-Known Member
Thanks George, I'm sure I'll take you up on that.
skipperscouse
Well-Known Member
any metalic wood primer, even alluminium wood primer, both good for over old antifoul as a primer also.
never failed me.
never failed me.
Captain Coochie
Well-Known Member
Wouldnt it be better to coat with two coats of thinned down oil based primer to get a good soak into the wood and then apply the heavier lead or rubber based primers ? Or load the timber up with oil based and use top coats as a surface sealer ? Thats not an opionion , its a question /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Forbsie
Well-Known Member
This is what confuses me. Looking at the renovation of Sanfiona (double diag workboat), they seem to be coating 3 sides of the plank with 1 coat of grey primer. I would have thought that you would want this first coat to soak into the wood as a preservative, but I'm learning all the time.
Thanks for your advice so far, guys. Just for clarification, if it's relevant, we will be replacing only the top few planks which were added during the conversion from Naval Pinnace to motor yacht.
Thanks for your advice so far, guys. Just for clarification, if it's relevant, we will be replacing only the top few planks which were added during the conversion from Naval Pinnace to motor yacht.
Mirelle
N/A
The instructions on the tin of Blakes' primer say "four coats", and four coats is also "normal" with red lead. In both cases, the first two coats should be thinned; these will soak in and provide a key, and the two last coats, with a rubbing down between them, will provide the waterproofing.
It is perfectly "possible" to "get away with" a single coat of primer, in terms of providing a sealing coat that will "take" an undercoat, and I think this is what house builders usually do, but it isn't reckoned to be good boatbuilding practice.
It is perfectly "possible" to "get away with" a single coat of primer, in terms of providing a sealing coat that will "take" an undercoat, and I think this is what house builders usually do, but it isn't reckoned to be good boatbuilding practice.