Which Power Option

[MapisM]

1) As long as the engine rating is within the drive's spec so what? Why have a more expensive heavier drive if you don't need it for your engine?
2) It doesn't grind, it clunks (if you are doing it properly that is).

1) agreed. What I meant is that I prefer big blocks on outdrive boats, which are well above Alpha specs - but that's me.
2) also agreed, I perfectly know what you mean. But would you believe that I've seen people thrown overboard by a helmsman trying to engage gear "properly" to avoid grinding? Not to mention that the clunk is equally awful, if you appreciate proper engineering.

PS: all that said, I never suggested that Alphas are not good for the job they're designed for - far from that.
Just that I don't like them (but this is obviously an "imho" viewpoint), and that VP duoprop are superior (and this is a fact)

 

[oGaryo]

What make you think so?
I'm a tad biased 'cause I hate Alphas with passion, but I can't imagine ANY situation where an Alpha is better than a VP duoprop.

I've had the Alpha 1 gen 2 on both my boats and never had a problem with them in the short time I've been boating... would have been better to state, is this setup unsuitable for moderate seas, which was my inference if that makes sense.

been reading up on the B3's and am shying away from them due to apparent corrosion issues.. not so much for my use as I intend to store out the water but for resale reasons if the reputation is poor.

 

[AndieMac]

I've had the Alpha 1 gen 2 on both my boats and never had a problem with them in the short time I've been boating... would have been better to state, is this setup unsuitable for moderate seas, which was my inference if that makes sense.

I've still got the original Alpha 1 (20 years old) in the boat at the present Gaz, and shes been through some gruelling offshore passages. It's being replaced because the new package, 'key to prop', was only a couple of grand more than 'engine only'.
The old package is already sold to go into another boat for hopefully quite a few years to come.
I need some more cubes to carry extra fuel and gear for some far reaching offshore destinations that are hoped to be achieved this season. The new 'Eco' gauges will also help with fuel calcs. over long distances .

 

[MapisM]

been reading up on the B3's and am shying away from them due to apparent corrosion issues.. not so much for my use as I intend to store out the water but for resale reasons if the reputation is poor.

Fwiw, I also don't like the B3. B1 is imho the best Mercury outdrive overall. Aside from the dry sump stuff, that is.

 

[duncan]

I've had the Alpha 1 gen 2 on both my boats and never had a problem with them in the short time I've been boating... would have been better to state, is this setup unsuitable for moderate seas, which was my inference if that makes sense.

been reading up on the B3's and am shying away from them due to apparent corrosion issues.. not so much for my use as I intend to store out the water but for resale reasons if the reputation is poor.

if it's the later model with the additional 2 anodes then they are now into overkill!

issues used to be associated with people (1) not changing anodes fast enough and (2) wrong anodes. I had one drive wrecked in 5 weeks through the installation of copy anodes by a mechnic trying to save me some money (anodes were wonderfully clean still - hlb suggested I should have used stainless anodes instead for an even better finish) .....funnily enough it's in the back of the landcruiser right now as a winter project because I have just switched to racking. For the next 5 years it got no worse after I got busy with Metallik Filler (with correct anodes changed frequently - so it wasn't the drive/alloy/mooring/etc) and a new, later drive that was installed 3 years ago is immaculate having been in the same place etc - it was replaced through insurers after I knocked the skeg clean off the first on a concrete block (another story)

part of the problems with t'internet is that whilst it gives great research capabilities it doesn't deliver the full story, and has a long memory!

 

[AndieMac]

it was replaced through insurers after I knocked the skeg clean off the first on a concrete block (another story)!

When I first bought the current boat, after a big winter renovation, on the morning of the maiden cruise, pulling out of the driveway, forgot to raise the leg and snapped the skeg off level with the bottom of the gear case.
Not wanting to miss out on the cruise with the club, decided to chance it after advice from others, and completed the 4 day, 100 mile trip without feeling any noticeable issues without the lower fin.
It repaired fine and was never a drama after that.

 

[duncan]

When I first bought the current boat, after a big winter renovation, on the morning of the maiden cruise, pulling out of the driveway, forgot to raise the leg and snapped the skeg off level with the bottom of the gear case.
Not wanting to miss out on the cruise with the club, decided to chance it after advice from others, and completed the 4 day, 100 mile trip without feeling any noticeable issues without the lower fin.
It repaired fine and was never a drama after that.

indeed - we were only 8 mins into a channel islands trip so turned round, limped back and were immediately hauled out. Got a pair of props (someone whose boat was being serviced got lucky as we had his SH ones and he got brand new the next day) and headed of - 1hr 20min 'pit stop'

I found the boat wandered a little at over 25knots but that was all. Ran it for 4 months whilst getting things sorted and am now doing it up a little better. (impact also knocked a few bits of filler out - around the bearing carrier etc - from the corrosion repairs)

Can't decide how much of a skeg to try and rebuild - and whether to try and reinforce it at all (thinking about drilling some 3mm holes and banging in some galvanised nails as an example, then some aluminum mesh, chemical metal filler etc etc. And then again I might just use a bit of filler and have a smaller skeg...

When you say yours 'repaired fine' how was this achieved? New lower casing? Ally welding - I was told all the shafts would have to be removed because of the seals making this quite a big job (and in my case not possible as the bearing carrier was already damaged etc)

 

[AndieMac]

When you say yours 'repaired fine' how was this achieved? New lower casing? Ally welding - I was told all the shafts would have to be removed because of the seals making this quite a big job (and in my case not possible as the bearing carrier was already damaged etc)

Unfortunately the old lower leg had had a long history of impact damage with the previous owners (life didn't improve much after I bought it either ) combined with a fairly average/weak repair job.
Fortunately I have access to great ally repair guys, so the weld was run straight across the under side of the gear case (Alpha 1) with no removal of the gear set, and no on-going issues for the next 5 years. I even managed to impact it a couple more times, but the first weld hung on beautifully.

The lower leg was replaced 10 months ago, because in an attempt to improve cruise speed a left hand test prop was put on accidently (it was bundled into a group of 5) and it wrecked the gear set, due completely to operator error.
It was cheaper and easier to install a 'Sierra' copy lower gear case than to source an original Merc. gear set.

I can't comment on the repair suitability of the Bravo 3.