Which outboard for tender?

robertt

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I'm getting a bit puffed out rowing in and out from visitors moorings esp when going against the wind. I'm thinking of buying a cheap old outboard to power my tender, an Avon Redstart, which came with one of the detachable transom thingies. The main consideration is low cost so I will not be spoiled for choice, but I was wondering whether I need one with a short shaft to allow me to get in to beaches without the engine hitting the bottom. Is that correct, or does it not make any odds? Most of the cheap outboards advertised for sale seem to be long shaft seagulls. I had also considered an electric outboard but I imagine this will struggle with a fully loaded dinghy in windy conditions, and I imagine I would need to carry a 12V car type battery to power one?

Any tips gratefully received
 

136069

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I'd go for a 2-stroke 3hp outboard, less weight to carry around and easy to service! Had problems with a 2.5hp 4-stroke so have been put off - Avoid single cylinder engines!
 

Spuddy

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Short shaft works for me. I got a 2hp Mariner 2 stroke off ebay for £100 - probably obtainable cheaper if you look. It starts with first pull unlike a couple of Seagulls i had in the past. All those Mariner, Mercury, Tohatsu o/bs are the same machine but rebadged so I've read on here. Decide if you want to pay a bit more for a gearbox with neutral, kill cord. Don't forget a bag of spares incl spare plug and shear pins.
 

johnalison

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Almost anything small will do. For a Redstart the HP hardly matters. I use a 2.5 4stroke but anything is enough as long as t goes. If you can get a 2stroke so much the better, but 4s have a bit more punch and are mor economical on fuel. If in doubt, go by weight.
 

Tranona

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The Redstart was designed when new to use the Seagull 40 Featherweight although the slightly bigger 40 PLUS will also work. Alternative more modern engines are 2 hp 2 strokes or the latest 2.5 hp 4 stroke all short shaft. Do not overpower the boat. It is not the best under power owing to lack of rigidity and the tendency to lift at the front, so keep weight forward when using the motor.
 

VicS

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I'm getting a bit puffed out rowing in and out from visitors moorings esp when going against the wind. I'm thinking of buying a cheap old outboard to power my tender, an Avon Redstart, which came with one of the detachable transom thingies. The main consideration is low cost so I will not be spoiled for choice, but I was wondering whether I need one with a short shaft to allow me to get in to beaches without the engine hitting the bottom. Is that correct, or does it not make any odds? Most of the cheap outboards advertised for sale seem to be long shaft seagulls. I had also considered an electric outboard but I imagine this will struggle with a fully loaded dinghy in windy conditions, and I imagine I would need to carry a 12V car type battery to power one?

Any tips gratefully received

You definitely do not want a longshaft on a Redstart

Cheap and old and suitable for a Redstart ....... A Seagull 40 Featherweight. Actually the only truly short shaft engine I know of. About 2" shorter than other short/standard shaft engines.
Get a late one that left the factory set up for 25:1 fuel mix or convert any after 1968 to 25:1. Not too messy to handle then.
 

prv

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I lurve my Suzuki 2.2hp 2-stroke for my small Bombard tender. A clean and simple little machine that weighs buggerall, starts halfway through the first pull, and just does what it's meant to with the minimum of fuss and complication. I bought it some years after the stupid 2-stroke "ban", but from a guy who'd used it a couple of times in fresh water and then put it back in its original box in his garage.

Pete
 

robertt

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Thanks for all advice. Looks like the Seagull 40 featherweight then. Haven't seen any of this particular model advertised locally, did see the 40 plus but that was longshaft. Will keep looking.
 

ctva

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I don't know why people don't like the new 4 stroke 2 / 2.5 hp engines as they are light, reliable and not too expensive. We have a Honda 2hp one that is 15 years old, used regularly (over the summer) and has had minimal servicing apart from an oil change every few years and one new plug in that time. Not as cheap as an old Seagull but more reliable and a lot less fuss and cleaner and quieter.
 

PetiteFleur

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I don't know why people don't like the new 4 stroke 2 / 2.5 hp engines as they are light, reliable and not too expensive. We have a Honda 2hp one that is 15 years old, used regularly (over the summer) and has had minimal servicing apart from an oil change every few years and one new plug in that time. Not as cheap as an old Seagull but more reliable and a lot less fuss and cleaner and quieter.
The 2strokes of 2hp are much lighter - 10kg as against 13kg. I have a 1995 Honda 2hp(the one with the water cooled leg) and I picked up Suzuki 2.2 cheap and now use that in preference to the Honda as it's lighter and easier to handle. Besides which the Honda has just blown a hole in the leg adjacent to the exhaust so now needs a new leg, not worth it.
 

OGITD

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For a Tender etc:

It has to be a Yamaha / Suzuki / Mercury / Mariner 2 - 2.5 single cylinder short shaft 2~.

You can carry them with one finger, internal tank, easy to maintain (as long as they have not been neglected for decades), will recover from a dunking (as long as the fuel & air are are shut-off) & I have one + one in bits ... & I can help with the servicing if required. :)
 
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Davegriff

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Had a seagull 40 years ago. Now use an ancient Mariner 2hp 2 stroke which beats the old seagull hands down. Seagulls 'orrible by comparison. (Smelly, oily, burnt elbows - yuk)
 

C08

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Get one with a neutral/forward gear selector-normally 3.5HP weighs the same as a 2hp and has that bit of extra power when you need it. The neutral position means you can start and warm up the engine before you cast off in windy conditions and the avoidance of accidently starting with the throttle wide and the boat trying to take off is a big safety benefit. I nearly had a nasty accident due to starting an outboard with a fixed gear. Tenders have enough inherent safety hazards without those you can avoid. I think Tohatsu 3.5HP 2 stroke is the jobbie to look for.
 

robertt

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It has to be a Yamaha / Suzuki / Mercury / Mariner 2 - 2.5 single cylinder short shaft 2~.

You can carry them with one finger, internal tank, easy to maintain (as long as they have not been neglected for decades), will recover from a dunking (as long as the fuel & air are are shut-off) & I have one + one in bits ... & I can help with the servicing if required. :)

Thanks John

Any help will be much appreciated if I manage to get hold of one :)
 

gunman

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The 2 stroke Mercury\Mariner\Tohatsu 3.3 is the same physical size as the 2.5. I have the 3.3 l/s and it's the lightest engine I have owned to date. Love it and wouldn't swap\sell it ever! If I stumbled across a 2.5 s/s one I would snap it up!

BTW, the 3.3 has N/F but no reverse but that's not an issure for me really.
 

robertt

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Another quick question on this topic. I have just come across a Seagull 40 plus with short shaft advertised locally for £50. It looks pretty clean from the pics and with short shaft I wondered if that was close enough to the featherweight to do the job? Seems pretty cheap :)
 

Stemar

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Get one with a neutral/forward gear selector-normally 3.5HP weighs the same as a 2hp and has that bit of extra power when you need it. The neutral position means you can start and warm up the engine before you cast off in windy conditions and the avoidance of accidently starting with the throttle wide and the boat trying to take off is a big safety benefit. I nearly had a nasty accident due to starting an outboard with a fixed gear. Tenders have enough inherent safety hazards without those you can avoid. I think Tohatsu 3.5HP 2 stroke is the jobbie to look for.

+1 on all that. My Tohatsu 3.5 is 10 years old and still going strong.

Do Seagulls have kill cords? If not, that on its own would be enough to put me off.
 
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