which multimeter ?

whipper_snapper

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Another visit to the boat, another dead multimeter!

Any thoughts on a basic meter that can survive in the hot, salty environment on board and take a few knocks? I don't want a mega expensive one, on the other hand I don't want to buy a new cheapo every time I go sailing.
 
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Avo multimeters were the de-facto industry standard equipment when I was a technician, and they were as tough as old boots. They do a load of waterproof and shock resistant digital models nowadays, and that's what I'd go for if price wasn't the issue.
 
Multi Meter

Is it the way/where you keep it on board? I purchased a standard type multi-meter at Argos in 1994 (cost about £15), since then it has been kept continuously on three boats and is still working OK. Kept in chart table; the multi meter has its own slightly padded plastic case. The boats have all been kept dry and warmed in the winter (Nov - Mar). I have usually changed the battery as soon as the "battery failing" symbol comes up on the display.Had to replace one of the probe wires once.
 
Charlies stores

I had a cheap one from Charlies in Shrewsbury about £8 I think which lasted well until I left on the companionway shelf where it got doused! I've since replaced it with one from Screwfix similar price. The one from Charlies had an audible continuity tester buiult in which is very useful.
 
I think you will have difficulty finding one that conforms with the relevant IP standard to make it truly up to a marine lifestyle at least at a sensible price.

I have one of Maplin's cheapest, bought when they were 2 for the price of one and I keep it in a resealable plastic bag.

They are now better in so much that they come in a protective holster but would still need the protection of the plastic bag. At present on sale at a reduced price. Under a fiver. Get two or three.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=37279

I feel that it would be no great loss if wrecked on the boat but I would be gutted if I had shelled out for a much better meter and that was wrecked.
If I had the need for a better quality instrument ... if i were an electronics engineer perhaps .. I would keep the good one at home and still buy the cheapies for the boat.

Look at Maplins range

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=67481
 
I have a Fluke 77 that I acquired some 20 years ago. It has been to 4 continents, worked on several planes, boats, cars and work jobs and has been as reliable as anything. In 20 years I'd be surprised if I have changed the battery more than 5 times. I have popped the 10 amp fuse several times.

There are some things you can compromise on but quality tools are not one of them!
 
Sorry for slight thread drift, but how can I test the accuracy of my multimeter? reason I ask is that I have just fitted a Stirling Charge/inverter that has a LED display, the voltage reading on that is 0.7 less than my multimeter reads, I also have a second multimeter that reads within 0.1 of the other, this difference is obviously significant in terms of battery condition.
 
Another vote for Fluke. Mine has worked on Concorde, lots of 737's, 767's, Tristar's, A320's, untold boats and cars and is utterly reliable. Lives in a toolbox on the boat and laughs at the environment.... Really well built and very accurate. As said above, quality tools are essential and worth the cost. When I was an aircaft engineer I would visit the Snap on man once a month and buy one tool. Over time, my collection has built up with the best kit. My ratchet screwdriver alone was over £50, but I'll never need another one.
 
I agree with SteveBirch. Fluke is the way to go if you have the money and it's what we are all issued with at work. For my boat I went to maplin and bought the UT50A for around £20 which works very well (when I haven't taken the work tools on the boat ....not that this would ever happen you understand :-) )
 
Sorry for slight thread drift, but how can I test the accuracy of my multimeter? reason I ask is that I have just fitted a Stirling Charge/inverter that has a LED display, the voltage reading on that is 0.7 less than my multimeter reads, I also have a second multimeter that reads within 0.1 of the other, this difference is obviously significant in terms of battery condition.

Without a proper calibration facility you can't be completely certain and calibration costs money. However the 12v and 5v supplies inside a standard PC are usually very closely regulated, typically 2 or 3%. Comparing your two meters applied to the 12v supply of your PC I would tend to believe the meter that reads closest to 12v.

On a standard PC hard drive connector black is ground red is 5v and yellow 12v.
 
Sorry for slight thread drift, but how can I test the accuracy of my multimeter? reason I ask is that I have just fitted a Stirling Charge/inverter that has a LED display, the voltage reading on that is 0.7 less than my multimeter reads, I also have a second multimeter that reads within 0.1 of the other, this difference is obviously significant in terms of battery condition.

Even the cheapest digital multimeters tend to be very accurate these days. If you put a multimeter directly across the terminals of the Stirling (rather than via the cables and connectors) I suspect the reading would agree.

I'd also go for Fluke.
 
Sorry for slight thread drift, but how can I test the accuracy of my multimeter? reason I ask is that I have just fitted a Stirling Charge/inverter that has a LED display, the voltage reading on that is 0.7 less than my multimeter reads, I also have a second multimeter that reads within 0.1 of the other, this difference is obviously significant in terms of battery condition.

Where are you measuring, maybe you are reading the volt drop across the inverter supply cable?

Also, cheap multimeters may read average A.C. not R.M.S. so the reading will vary depending on frequency and form factor, another vote for a decent Fluke then.
 
Thanks all


Much as I would love a Fluke, there is no way I want to spend £300 on a meter that will get bashed about, left on the boat, and only ever asked to basic things.

One that failed was in fact a basic model Fluke, the next was a cheapish generic model (£30 ish). I have just ordered 2 for £5 each from Maplin! I will seal one up in an airtight box before going to the coast and leave it sealed until the first dies! i would consider it dangerous to sail offshore without a working meter!
 
Thanks all


Much as I would love a Fluke, there is no way I want to spend £300 on a meter that will get bashed about, left on the boat, and only ever asked to basic things.

One that failed was in fact a basic model Fluke, the next was a cheapish generic model (£30 ish). I have just ordered 2 for £5 each from Maplin! I will seal one up in an airtight box before going to the coast and leave it sealed until the first dies! i would consider it dangerous to sail offshore without a working meter!

How about leaving a packet of silica gel in the sealed container, might help?
 
spent most of my working life using some very good gear, but for the boat you wont go far wrong with the ARGOS as mention for £24, simple to use and in a good case,
 
dmmbruce,yep, done that... it spent two weeks at the bottom of the thames being hunted for by a seasearcher magnet. Had to go swimming eventually, but on recovery it still works fine. Not even been re-lubricated... Also a bunch of Halfords 10mm combination spanners on the bottom at Windsor racecourse marina, left them there tho.
 
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