Which glue for engine insulation?

[fjweaver]

Some of the insulation has fallen off in my engine compartment but I'm not sure what's the correct glue so as not to melt it. The insulation has a black exterior & foam inner

thanks
Frank

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[hylas]

on my owm boat I've used NEOPRENE glue 12 years after it is still OK..

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[stamfordian]

Just soundproofed my engine bay,used bostik contact adisive,the one they have to keep locked up.Used on quietelife insulation and didn,t melt foam.Biggest sheet was approx 3ft6" square ,stuck it great even upside down.

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/stamfordian>http://www.arweb.co.uk/argallery/stamfordian</A>

 

[stretch33]

I'm in the process of putting insulation in my engine comp using Quietlife as recommended by some forum members. The trouble l'm having is removing the glue backing from the old stuff. The foams come off no prob, but the glue ! Anyone any suggestions for de - gluing plywood engine boards.
Cheers

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[whisper]

I've looked at Halyard and 3m (for Thinsulate), who pray is Quietlife and can you give me their website or contact details please ?
Thanks

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[dulcibella]

I've used Bostik with no problems. Probably a good idea to let it go off and then ventilate the boat well before starting the engine, or you may get high in more senses than one.

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[gtmoore]

Quietlife is available from <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.asap-supplies.com>http://www.asap-supplies.com</A>

Click on the Miscellaneous and Sterngear button then Quietlife Soundproofing.
I have installed the Standard 32 product in my boat and it seems excellent.

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin

 

[gtmoore]

When I did mine I just used EvoStick contact adhesive. As others say mind the fumes (set my gas alarm off!). I also used the large washer fixings where it was easier to slide a precut sheet into position as once that contact adhesive touches it 'aint going anywhere!

<hr width=100% size=1>Gavin

 

[Paulka]

I replaced the insulation on my boat 3 years ago. Yes removing the old glue is a mess! After a few trys, I first used a paint scrapper, and then trichlorethylene, a product used I think by the dry-cleaning shops, and safer than aceton. Aceton gave good results as well, but is awfully dangerous (fire and explosion prone).

I then sanded the ply wood untill it was absolutely clean, and applied one coat of primer, as per instructions of Halyard.

I used the self adhesive Halyard foam, which I held pressed for at least two days after gluing it in place.

I think the key (one of them) is to allow plenty of time between steps, as to get a nicely "dry" surface before applying the next coat.

Not the smallest problem up to now, despite of the mediterranean heat.

Good luck.

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