Which engine oil?

Nostrodamus

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So far this year my engine (Volvo MD22) has been good to me and in return I though I would treat it to a mid season oil change.

Having seen the price of Volvo diesel mineral oil there is no way I am paying their over inflated prices.

Any suggestions for a decent non turbo, mineral, diesel oil (15-40) and is there anything I should avoid?

It would be of benefit to see what others use.
 
So far this year my engine (Volvo MD22) has been good to me and in return I though I would treat it to a mid season oil change.

Having seen the price of Volvo diesel mineral oil there is no way I am paying their over inflated prices.

Any suggestions for a decent non turbo, mineral, diesel oil (15-40) and is there anything I should avoid?

It would be of benefit to see what others use.

go to yr local Sm 15>40 CF
if you need bedtime reading do a forum search :eek:
 
My MDllC is approx 40 years old and I have used Volvo engine oil in the past; now i use good quality car oil for old diesel car engines; Halfords and other car accessory shops stock it; not expensive at all.

Next year i will start using semi-synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is good in that keeps its viscosity despite of engine temperature. I know that, in a minute, there will be a lot of responses against synthetic oils for old engines; however, the main issue is to have a good high viscosity oil able to stay thick.
 
So far this year my engine (Volvo MD22) has been good to me and in return I though I would treat it to a mid season oil change.

Having seen the price of Volvo diesel mineral oil there is no way I am paying their over inflated prices.

Any suggestions for a decent non turbo, mineral, diesel oil (15-40) and is there anything I should avoid?

It would be of benefit to see what others use.
Tesco or Asda ordinaire. Non synthetic.
I use it in mine
Stu
PS You can also use the Lidl stuff, they are all 15/40 CF
 
So far this year my engine (Volvo MD22) has been good to me and in return I though I would treat it to a mid season oil change.

Having seen the price of Volvo diesel mineral oil there is no way I am paying their over inflated prices.

Any suggestions for a decent non turbo, mineral, diesel oil (15-40) and is there anything I should avoid?

It would be of benefit to see what others use.

Makes you wish you had stocked up before you left, given the cost of Volvo spares abroad may be worth working out what you will need for a couple of years and getting it from UK.

From memory 5lts Volvo oil 78€ in Bayona, went to a car spares shop 5lts 15/40 cf mineral oil 22€
 
Far as I recall Pingo Doce had a 15/40 mineral oil (GALP?) at very reasonable cost

Galp seems to be the supermarket oil here in Portugal although it does not say mineral on it. The synthetics say synthetic though.
Volvo stuff is about 53 euros for 5 litres so at well over double the price does it have nano-bots in it that will repair any engine defects?
I have never heard of GALP before?
 
The best place to buy mineral oil is in a French supermarket. It is often on offer. You can buy Shell Helix Diesel 5W40 for €12 or €13 for 5 litres equivalent about £10!!
 
Galp seems to be the supermarket oil here in Portugal although it does not say mineral on it. The synthetics say synthetic though.
Volvo stuff is about 53 euros for 5 litres so at well over double the price does it have nano-bots in it that will repair any engine defects?
I have never heard of GALP before?

GALP seems to be the Portuguese national oil products supplier. I think I took it on trust that if it didnt say synthetic, combined with the price, it likely wasnt. The spec (CF-4/SG on the old container of MultiDiesel 15W40, yes I still have the empty container :rolleyes:) is ok for my non-turbo Kubota based Nanni. I like to change it every 100 hrs anyway so it wasnt in there long.
 
GALP seems to be the Portuguese national oil products supplier. I think I took it on trust that if it didnt say synthetic, combined with the price, it likely wasnt. The spec (CF-4/SG on the old container of MultiDiesel 15W40, yes I still have the empty container :rolleyes:) is ok for my non-turbo Kubota based Nanni. I like to change it every 100 hrs anyway so it wasnt in there long.


Thanks RobbieW
That is the stuff I saw today.
Is this ok for a volvo md22..sounds ok apart from the name.
 
I get great results with Morris 20/50 for petrol and non turbo diesels. Its cheap, top quality for its old tech spec. and available almost anywhere. Other old generation 20/50's will do the same job. If batteries are getting old, cold starting at below zero tempretures may be a problem, but this has been fine for us. The oil the previous owner was using-OMC Quicksilver 5/15 went straight out of the exhaust pipe of our old generation three cylinder Yanmar. It emptied the sump in five hours running! Now, on the 20/50 I use no oil between changes. It works for me!
 
Hi

I have always used Shell rimula 15/30.. good for turbo and normally aspirated engines.. My old montego with a Perkins Prima 2litre turbo ran beautifully to about 170 000 miles.. the body gave up whilst the engine started on the touch of the button.. and no oil leaks from damaged seals
 
Carlube 15w40 mineral at £12 for 5L is what goes in to my old Mercedes om636 which gets two changes per year, one with a filter clean and one without.But then I am on a tidal mooring and cannot always go sailing......
 
That is one of the problems I have with oils.
We have a non turbo engine but some oils say they are for turbos,some for both and some don't say. Some go from 5/50 and others 20/50. Some say they are for GTI's.
Some oils are cheap and others very expensive.
I have no idea what the difference is or what difference they make to an engine.
I just want something that will not damage the engine and I believe is as low spec as possible.
 
however, the main issue is to have a good high viscosity oil able to stay thick.

if you say so! what you actually want is an oil that lubricates and cleans the bearing surfaces and most important carries the heat away, thick oil is not very good at the latter, but anyway, oils are not like cornflour they don't thicken up when heated.

20/50 has the viscosity of a 20 grade oil when when cold and the viscosity of a 50 grade when its hot. Hot 50 is a lot thinner than cold 20, so the oil thins but not as much as it would if it were a straight 20 grade. The polymers in the oil that maintain the viscosity eventually breakdown and the oil reverts to straight 20 grade, BUT by that time is so full of carbon its like treacle and should have been changed hours ago.

For your engine I would stick with mineral oil.
 
That is one of the problems I have with oils.
We have a non turbo engine but some oils say they are for turbos,some for both and some don't say. Some go from 5/50 and others 20/50. Some say they are for GTI's.
Some oils are cheap and others very expensive.
I have no idea what the difference is or what difference they make to an engine.
I just want something that will not damage the engine and I believe is as low spec as possible.

Lots of info on my website, under Engine.
Basic rules - don't use viscosities less than 15W/40.
Don't use synthetics or semi-synthetics. This is not because the base oil is different, it is actually better, but the additive packages contain many components that can have adverse effects on older engines. The one I have always quoted is bore wear, but in the past few days Latestarter has also cited valve guide wear.
Use the API rating as a guide. API CF is probably what you will get most easily.
Volvo have a strange, one-size-fits-all policy on oils. How they can suggest that a yacht auxiliary and a turbocharged mobo require the same oil is a puzzle to me.
 
I'm with Vyv on this.Engines such as mine, Yanmar, are not the super robot precision fine tolerance built engines that you get in modern cars and using modern oils will do them no good at all. Why price is a factor when we are usually talking about a couple of litres at most I do not know, particularly when continued use of "garage forecourt oil" could mean a new engine and especially when we don't blink at paying nearly a £1 or equivalent for something like a ss wood screw.
 
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