which electrical cable?

[fjweaver]

I am shortly going to hook up permanent shore power (using an MK IP65 consumer unit).

I'm not going to be linking to any of the existing boat circuits - just a few 3 pin sockets for kettle, heater etc. on a mini ring main.

Is normal household cable ok or should I use marine grade? If so where's the best place to buy it? (I have a load of shore-power cable would this be ok to use instead?)

 

[BAtoo]

I have used, & would use again, standard 3 core 13A flex; not solid core cable as flex is easier to feed round the corners etc. Never had a problem with it.

 

[michael_w]

Stuff you want is "Arctic" cable.

Clicky

 

[VicS]

You'd use the Arctic cable for the shorepower lead maybe but for the internal wiring ??

Merlin powerstore do marine grade three core cables but colour coded white/black/green

http://www.power-store.com/?id=275

 

[michael_w]

Why not? Having bought a reel of the stuff, I used it to rewire the entire shore power system within my boat. OK, it's not ideal tinned cable.

 

[MrCramp]

I've done the same thing, bought a reel of it, a distinct blue colour so it cannot get mixed up with anything else.

PS Just looked at the link, its gone up in price since I did the job!!

 

[bigwow]

Used the rubber sheathed variant myself, thought it might be better suited to any possible chaff.

 

[asj1]

Used solid core stuff myself obtained from a builders skip - it works fine !!

 

[paulburton44]

Use artic cable.......don't use solid cable.....

Solid cable will not take much vibration or movement before it snaps..

Artic is very good, tough stuff. You could always solder then ends but i wouldn't bother.

 

[fjweaver]

thanks for all the replies - think I'll look at the arctic cable

 

[nigelmercier]

[ QUOTE ]
Is normal household cable ok or should I use marine grade? If so where's the best place to buy it? (I have a load of shore-power cable would this be ok to use instead?)

[/ QUOTE ]

Best stuff is Blue Arctic Flex but if you are going the run the kettle and the heater and other stuff together, than use the 2.5mm version in your ring main.

Of course, if you have a 16A supply (a blue IP44 plug), you are wasting your time with a ring main and 2.5mm!

I have a 16A supply so I ran a single 1.5mm flex to a single socket in the galley. OK, so I have to unplug the kettle to make toast, no big deal - it's a boat!

 

[fjweaver]

thanks Nigel - have ordered some blue arctic 2.5mm

what's the problem with a ring main - i'll be having 2 maybe 3 outlets so surely this is better than spurs?

 

[MrCramp]

Wiring a boat is not the same as wireing a house.

If you use a 3000 watt (3K) kettle or electric heater they will draw 12 amps at 250 volts, slightly more at 240. If your supply is only 16amp then you can only run one appliance of that size at a time which is why Nige has to use his kettle and toaster seperatley.

It is much easier just to run spurs on a boat as the wiring is less bulky. Most uses, tv, radio, computer, phone charger and lights are very low consumption and you might only use 3amps if you have the lot on.

Best bet is to use the blue artic 2.5mm you have ordered and spures. As you are useing that rather than the smaller wire, 1.5mm, you have gone oversized anyway, which is what I would have done!

 

[markdj]

2.5mm ring main using flex is the stuff, but be sure and put all cable within a flexible conduit to keep to abyc safety standards, especially if going through engine room or bulkheads.

 

[dratsea]

Local B&Q had 100m of 32 amp yellow artic cable for £88.98. Cheaper than the electrical wholesaler!

John

 

[fjweaver]

thanks - 100m was far too much so got 25m from Alert Electricals