Where to buy new boom? Recommendations?

[DangerousPirate]

Hello, I am almost ready with my project boat and now I put that mast up and was on the rigging when I noticed that this very old boom is kind of an old system. Its a furling boom, and doesnt work as the winch is missing to un/furl. I dont even know if it works with a winch as the conditions when I had a look where very bad, the price was low enough anyways. Ill try to repair it, but I would also like to look into a new boom in general for a better sailing experience.

Correct me if I am wrong but it should be possible to keep the mast and get a new boom, a more modern version with proper reefing systems and a proper outhaul etc, without spending thousands on it.

So only thing I find are dinghy booms and companies that want to do all the rigging for you (and obviously are going to be expensive).

Any recommendations?

 

[Jokani]

I was in a similar situation with the original roller boom reefing on my Centaur. Replaced mine with a new Z Spars boom, Z Spars also provided a bespoke gooseneck etc. If you kept it simple, and didn't opt for rod kickers etc, there would be change out of £1,000, but maybe not much. Had to fit myself mind, but not difficult.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I also got a boom for my previous boat after the original boom snapped... visited Z Spars and got a second hand boom which needed shortening, which they did while I waited. Just had to drill out the rivets for the end fitting and rivet onto the boom. Much cheaper than a completely new boom. Or look on ebay - often booms being sold. I bought a secondhand boom for my present boat when the gooseneck collapsed( originally a through the mast roller reefing), it was exactly the right length and included 3 reefing lines. Just had to find a new goseneck to suit.

 

[Yngmar]

Talk to Allspars in Plymouth: Home

 

[TernVI]

If you don't need a bolt rope groove, a boom is just a tube with a few fittings.
you could DIY it.
Buy some anodised tube and away to go.
You might want to sleeve the area where the kicker attaches.
Alteratively, find a piece of broken mast....

 

[davidpbo]

Try boatbreakers.com, sorry can't post the link.

 

[Channel Sailor]

+1 designed and built by Allspars. Great result for me. But not the cheapest solution compared to some options, that might suit lessor requirements.

 

[ProDave]

Our boat has a roller boom. It is no longer used for that. It no longer rotates. The sail still attaches to the boom in the same way, and as it no longer rotates there is now a fixing for the kicker riveted on (would have had a claw before). And traditional reefing has been added to the sail.

No need for a new boom unless yours is somehow broken.

 

[LittleSister]

Our boat has a roller boom. It is no longer used for that. It no longer rotates. The sail still attaches to the boom in the same way, and as it no longer rotates there is now a fixing for the kicker riveted on (would have had a claw before). And traditional reefing has been added to the sail.

No need for a new boom unless yours is somehow broken.

+1

 

[Stemar]

And another. I don't know if my old roller reefing mechanism still works, I have slab reefing on a loose footed main, lazyjacks and all lines aft, but all on the original boom.

Roller reefing isn't something I'd want to repair, it's something I'd want to replace. It rarely gives a decent shape, going baggy just when you want the sail to be flatter. There are bodges to make it work better, but it really isn't something that will have you thinking, I'm glad I've got that.

If the main's good enough to be worth it, get a sailmaker to put a couple of reefing points in, three if it's a big boat, and go with slab reefing. If the sail isn't worth the expenditure, find a second hand one or splash out for a new one with the reefs.

 

[differentroads]

I was in a similar situation with the original roller boom reefing on my Centaur. Replaced mine with a new Z Spars boom, Z Spars also provided a bespoke gooseneck etc. If you kept it simple, and didn't opt for rod kickers etc, there would be change out of £1,000, but maybe not much. Had to fit myself mind, but not difficult.

+1 for Z Spars. Did me proud when I had to replace my boom about six years ago

 

[DangerousPirate]

Hello and thanks for the answers so far.
How much did you guys pay for the Z Spars?

And my current objective is to find a winch or atleast something that fits in the mechanism so I can turn it. If the system works Ill just stick with it for now. If its broken, well, then it boils down to the costs for me. If its cheap enough Id get a modern boom, if its too much I will go and try to cheat the rigging and customise it so it works a different way.

I just dont feel overly confident to build my own. It might be easy but there are other options.

The mechanism jiggles when I try to turn the boom by hand so Im confident that it works it just needs the winch.

Well see what happens in the next few days. Just now I cant do much and have to sit idle.

 

[LittleSister]

I suspect the bit you have missing is just the handle, not a winch as such.

If so, I seem to recall they're often just a crank with a square end on it of about 3/8". Check the shape and measure the dimensions of the socket the handle fits into. You might be able to find a replacement, or have one made up.

I wouldn't bank on a bit of slop in the mechanism meaning it necessarily works. If the socket is a square or other simple shape you might be able to improvise something to try turning it before splashing out on a replacement handle (but beware of damaging the socket shape).

 

[William_H]

Certainly try to get the roller mechanism working. If that fails well most people reckon slab reefing being far better. I am guessing a fairly small boat such tha tone deep reef might suit you. The old boom should be ok to use with slab reefing. However if you really want a new boom then as said a piece of ali tubing of suitable dimensions will be fine.
I was fortunate to find a piece of carbon fibre tubing from a broken dinghy mast. I used webbing to take loads of vang and sheet attachment. This averts ctting holes in the tubing. Any hole in the middle of the tubing is a weak point to be avoided. The advantage of CF boom is it's light weight. This translates to less inertia when jibing very desirable when it hits your head. Likewise no protruding fittings on the sides to penetrate the skull.
Gooseneck is made up of stainless steel straps cut out of ss plate. There is a similar strap with legs rivetted to the boom. Another little strap with legs makes a piece that goes between the 2 to make a universal joint. 2 clevis pins allow for up and down and sideways movement. A shackle attached to the front clevis pin attaches the tack eyelet.
I made up a double sheave block set into the boom at the gooseneck end bottom so reefing line and oputhaul go down wards to a deck sheave then back to cockpit. I fitted a second single sheave ina box at the end foe outhaul and another a bit further forward for the reef. I use double sided velcro wrapped around the boom and through the clew eyelet 3 times to take downward load of sail. All very successfula fter nearly 5 years of racing on a 21fter. PM me if you want more detail ol'will

 

[differentroads]

Converting a boom to slab reefing with reefing done at the mast is simple enough if the reefing is done at the mast, with a cheek block for each reef at the outboard end leading to some means of hauling the reefing line in (winch or block and tackle to a cleat) plus a means of securing the clew at the right point. But then the mainsl needs adapting to have eyes and reinforcement patches at the reefing points as substantial as theexisting cringle and clew.
Getting your roller reefing working might be much more straightforward. But then you'd have all the downsides of roller reefing - slowness, poor sail shape, forced to reef at the mast. My current boat is supremely safe for reefing at the mast but most boats I've sailed on up to 10m have not been. And that includes two that have reefing in the cockpit but someone has to go to the mast because of all the friction in the reefing lines!