Where in South Brittany please?

[Carib]

We're considering cruising to South Brittany. I'm totally unfamiliar with the coast south of Cameret. Where should we go?

Hoping for a mixture of beach anchorages, islands, interesting harbours and probably a trip up a river (which river?). We have an experienced ship's girl but she is only four, so we'll need to balance everything with regular runs ashore.

Obviously the further south we go the further it is to come back... Is there much south of Quiberon Bay we should aim to see, or will that area give us more than enough to do?

Thank you!

(For the purposes of this exercise please assume Covid is not an issue.. )

 

[Poignard]

Golfe de Morbihan and the Vilaine for your river trip

 

[Sybarite]

We're considering cruising to South Brittany. I'm totally unfamiliar with the coast south of Cameret. Where should we go?

Hoping for a mixture of beach anchorages, islands, interesting harbours and probably a trip up a river (which river?). We have an experienced ship's girl but she is only four, so we'll need to balance everything with regular runs ashore.

Obviously the further south we go the further it is to come back... Is there much south of Quiberon Bay we should aim to see, or will that area give us more than enough to do?

Thank you!

(For the purposes of this exercise please assume Covid is not an issue.. )

Here's an old post of mine :

Some things that I enjoy (in response to a pm ):

In general, the islands of Brittany are worth seeing if only for the fact that the number of French people there are limited by the ferries!

Ushant, Molène and Sein (especially Sein with its narrow streets and Breton speaking population) but pay special attention to tides and currents which are very strong. Keep an eye out for the resident population of large dolphins and possibly for seals – probably the only place in Brittany to see them.

Brest: a visit to Océanopolis is well worth while. The town itself is nothing special. There may be interesting boats in the old port which you would see on the way in.

Aulne River. Depending on your draft you can go up as far as Châteaulin which is about 15 miles up-stream and then there is one lock to pass. I went up with 1m70 draft but you should check the sailing directions. Keep to the outside of bends.

Camaret : is a junction port for boats heading north and south. If shopping is required it’s easier to cross the harbour in a dinghy; otherwise it’s a long walk.

Heading south, the southern part of Point de la Chèvre has some picturesque little bays which are worth a swim stop in good weather. Keep an eye out though for buoyed fishing nets. Morgat is a useful if somewhat featureless port. The resort about half a mile away has some good restaurants. Douarnenez is interesting especially visiting the floating boat museum which, incidentally, nearly bankrupted the town…

Leaving Douarnenez, I would visit Sein (see above) then Audierne. I always moored in the outside harbor and so cannot comment on the approach to the inner harbor which is tide dependent I think.

Leaving Audierne and rounding Pen Mar’ch the first significant port is Le Guilvinic which traditionally is one of the main fishing ports and not that welcoming to pleasure craft – although I had no problems.

From there I would tend to head to the Glénan islands where you have a ring of islands surrounding a lagoon which is one the few areas in Europe to have coral sand beaches (W. Ireland also have some). There are buoys at St Nicholas but elsewhere there is not much problem anchoring. St Nicholas has two restaurants, a seafood one where you have to reserve at lunch-time for the evening and the previous evening for lunch-time. They have a large vivarium behind with an impressive collection of lobsters. There is another bar-restaurant with a basic but reasonable selection. On St Nicholas, there is a fenced-off area where there is a type of hyancinthe which only occurs on that spot. As the day ferries only land at St Nicholas, I prefer other parts especially the SW corner of Penfret. Great places for walks.

From the Glénan I would then visit Loctudy (if you need a port but otherwise so-so) and then Bénodet and opposite, Sainte Marine. Bénodet is one of the favourite places for my kids because it has a lively atmosphere, even a casino. There are usually some beautiful boats here.

The Odet River : not to be missed. Steep wooded banks and twisting curves. Near the top and just before it opens out to a wide open bit, there is a turning off to starboard; it’s very narrow but inside it opens out into a lovely tree-surrounded pool (Anse an Toulven). Keep well to left of entrance; it may be prudent for you to wait for half-tide rising before entering though I have only lightly touched once at low tide. The centre of the anse is deep enough and mud-bottomed so no great risk. After the Bénodet area you can head to Port La-Forêt where several large racing boats are based. It’s a very good place if things need repairing. There is a golf course within (long) walking distance.

From Port-la-Forêt, go next to Concarneau. It’s not particularly practicable for shopping but well worth a visit. Visit "la Ville Close" a walled town on an island within the harbour.

Our favourite restaurants :

• Le Croquervol : 3 rue Alfred Le Ray just opposite the marina.
• La Coquille : In the inner harbour on the right bank. The owner is the former chef of the Tour d’Argent at Paris, one of Paris’ best restaurants.
• A few miles from Concarneau (make sure the funds are in your bank) La Taupinière. La Taupinière - Restaurant - Pont-Aven (29).

After Concarneau there are several little ports along the way, Doelan, Port Mane’ch where, depending on your draft, you can go up the Aven as far as Pont Aven a very picturesque town for painters where Paul Gauguin was based before heading off to warmer places. You will have to dry out against a wall at low tide. Alternatively you can explore the Belon estuary just opposite Port Mane’ch.

From there I would visit the Ile de Groix. Port Tudy is a picturesque little port and there are very good walks around the island. In settled weather and a westerly régime you can moor off the beaches to the east.

From there you can visit the Rade de Lorient where you have the choice of 5 or 6 marinas. My home base is Locmiquélic which is excellent. I read in the visitors’ book that some consider it to be the best on the west coast of France.

Two restaurants on the port : Le Cargo Sentimental (owned until recently by a circus clown) where the fare is good but has become a little pricey (the cabaret act?) and good cuisine at L'Arret au Port. (Tell Jacques the owner that John sent you...). A small supermarket in the town centre (1 km) or Intermarché, Lidl and a new Leclerc at the other side of the town.

The Tabarly sailing centre at the old submarine pens (Lorient) is worth a visit and is the base for the Banque Populaire trimaran amongst others.

You can also moor virtually in the town centre if crowds and noise are your thing.

Port Louis marina has recently been enlarged and is just past the Citadelle at the entrance.

The Blavet is navigable as far as Hennebont.

From Lorient we usually would head for Belle Ile ignoring the Etel estuary where onshore winds can render the bar difficult. The usual arrival port is Sauzon which has to be among the prettiest ports in Brittany. There is an inner harbour which dries out with a flat sandy bottom and an outer harbour where you raft to buoys. Outside this harbour, buoys are also in place. In northerly winds however it can be uncomfortable. In port, try the Bistro du Port (grilled sardines or côte de boeuf grilled on an open fire in front of you). There is another excellent restaurant to the right hand side of the church going up the hill. I forget its name.

Another place not to miss is Ster Wenn (pronounced Venn) which is an anchorage behind cliffs in the NW corner of Belle Ile. You enter Ster Vraz and then do a right angle to Ster Wenn. You anchor in the middle and take lines to the left bank. There is a golf green on the cliffs at Ster Vraz (9 hole course).

From there you can visit Le Palais, the main port on the island, and its Citadelle by Vauban.

From Belle Ile you either visit Port Haliguen and La Trinité (aka in France as the mecca of yachting) or the islands of Houat (“wot”) and Hoëdic (“eddick”) where you have a superb restaurant at the hotel. We also had an excellent grilled bass (bar grillé) “Chez Paul”. Houat has better anchorages than Hoëdic, and all around the island depending on the winds. Excellent walks on both islands.

Le Crouësty is a well appointed and friendly port but slightly soul destroying. It is a good stop-over point for visiting the Golfe de Morbihan; I prefer mooring to the east of Ile d’Arz but it’s not good holding ground. Better to use a buoy if possible. The island as well as the Ile aux Moines are picturesque and worth visiting.

That’s all for now folks….

 

[doug748]

I would not go south of Benodet - ish for a single trip.

Not too far, loads to see in the Bay: Benodet itself, (great anchorages fine river trip, marinas, sandy beaches), Concarneau (great history/buildings, eating, atmosphere) Iles Glenan (Desert islands, superb swimming), Loctudy (nice town, Swallows and Amazons up to Pont L'Abbe, fine beaches on Ile Tudy, free bikes).

Lots more as well, plus you have left the grand options to the south unmarked for another day.

.

 

[Koeketiene]

Golfe de Morbihan and the Vilaine for your river trip

Depends how much you draw - anything over 2m will be a challenge.

 

[Poignard]

Depends how much you draw - anything over 2m will be a challenge.

I think he has a Samphire 26 which draws 1.03m.

 

[Carib]

I think he has a Samphire 26 which draws 1.03m.

Not any more! Rustler 31 so a fair bit at 1.8m.

This is a very good start indeed and extremely helpful, thanks!

 

[Poignard]

Not any more! Rustler 31 so a fair bit at 1.8m.

This is a very good start indeed and extremely helpful, thanks!

A fine boat

But they get quite large vessels into the basin at Vannes during Semaine du Golfe classic boat rally and up to Redon during Vilaine en Fete week.

 

[LadyInBed]

I did some of the S coast in 2012
Write up and pics here
Summer Cruise to Brittany 2012 : Monty Mariner

 

[westhinder]

Poignard said enough to fill more than one holiday and I agree with what he said. Among the multitude, what I would not want to skip is Sainte Marine, les Iles de Glénans, Belle Isle, Houat, Le Morbihan.
The good thing is you will want to go back to sample more. Enjoy!

 

[Carib]

Poignard said enough to fill more than one holiday and I agree with what he said. Among the multitude, what I would not want to skip is Sainte Marine, les Iles de Glénans, Belle Isle, Houat, Le Morbihan.
The good thing is you will want to go back to sample more. Enjoy!

Just the stuff we need, cheers. Definitely time to dig out some charts!

 

[Laminar Flow]

Here's an old post of mine :

Some things that I enjoy (in response to a pm ):

In general, the islands of Brittany are worth seeing if only for the fact that the number of French people there are limited by the ferries!

Ushant, Molène and Sein (especially Sein with its narrow streets and Breton speaking population) but pay special attention to tides and currents which are very strong. Keep an eye out for the resident population of large dolphins and possibly for seals – probably the only place in Brittany to see them.

Brest: a visit to Océanopolis is well worth while. The town itself is nothing special. There may be interesting boats in the old port which you would see on the way in.

Aulne River. Depending on your draft you can go up as far as Châteaulin which is about 15 miles up-stream and then there is one lock to pass. I went up with 1m70 draft but you should check the sailing directions. Keep to the outside of bends.

Camaret : is a junction port for boats heading north and south. If shopping is required it’s easier to cross the harbour in a dinghy; otherwise it’s a long walk.

Heading south, the southern part of Point de la Chèvre has some picturesque little bays which are worth a swim stop in good weather. Keep an eye out though for buoyed fishing nets. Morgat is a useful if somewhat featureless port. The resort about half a mile away has some good restaurants. Douarnenez is interesting especially visiting the floating boat museum which, incidentally, nearly bankrupted the town…

Leaving Douarnenez, I would visit Sein (see above) then Audierne. I always moored in the outside harbor and so cannot comment on the approach to the inner harbor which is tide dependent I think.

Leaving Audierne and rounding Pen Mar’ch the first significant port is Le Guilvinic which traditionally is one of the main fishing ports and not that welcoming to pleasure craft – although I had no problems.

From there I would tend to head to the Glénan islands where you have a ring of islands surrounding a lagoon which is one the few areas in Europe to have coral sand beaches (W. Ireland also have some). There are buoys at St Nicholas but elsewhere there is not much problem anchoring. St Nicholas has two restaurants, a seafood one where you have to reserve at lunch-time for the evening and the previous evening for lunch-time. They have a large vivarium behind with an impressive collection of lobsters. There is another bar-restaurant with a basic but reasonable selection. On St Nicholas, there is a fenced-off area where there is a type of hyancinthe which only occurs on that spot. As the day ferries only land at St Nicholas, I prefer other parts especially the SW corner of Penfret. Great places for walks.

From the Glénan I would then visit Loctudy (if you need a port but otherwise so-so) and then Bénodet and opposite, Sainte Marine. Bénodet is one of the favourite places for my kids because it has a lively atmosphere, even a casino. There are usually some beautiful boats here.

The Odet River : not to be missed. Steep wooded banks and twisting curves. Near the top and just before it opens out to a wide open bit, there is a turning off to starboard; it’s very narrow but inside it opens out into a lovely tree-surrounded pool (Anse an Toulven). Keep well to left of entrance; it may be prudent for you to wait for half-tide rising before entering though I have only lightly touched once at low tide. The centre of the anse is deep enough and mud-bottomed so no great risk. After the Bénodet area you can head to Port La-Forêt where several large racing boats are based. It’s a very good place if things need repairing. There is a golf course within (long) walking distance.

From Port-la-Forêt, go next to Concarneau. It’s not particularly practicable for shopping but well worth a visit. Visit "la Ville Close" a walled town on an island within the harbour.

Our favourite restaurants :

• Le Croquervol : 3 rue Alfred Le Ray just opposite the marina.
• La Coquille : In the inner harbour on the right bank. The owner is the former chef of the Tour d’Argent at Paris, one of Paris’ best restaurants.
• A few miles from Concarneau (make sure the funds are in your bank) La Taupinière. La Taupinière - Restaurant - Pont-Aven (29).

After Concarneau there are several little ports along the way, Doelan, Port Mane’ch where, depending on your draft, you can go up the Aven as far as Pont Aven a very picturesque town for painters where Paul Gauguin was based before heading off to warmer places. You will have to dry out against a wall at low tide. Alternatively you can explore the Belon estuary just opposite Port Mane’ch.

From there I would visit the Ile de Groix. Port Tudy is a picturesque little port and there are very good walks around the island. In settled weather and a westerly régime you can moor off the beaches to the east.

From there you can visit the Rade de Lorient where you have the choice of 5 or 6 marinas. My home base is Locmiquélic which is excellent. I read in the visitors’ book that some consider it to be the best on the west coast of France.

Two restaurants on the port : Le Cargo Sentimental (owned until recently by a circus clown) where the fare is good but has become a little pricey (the cabaret act?) and good cuisine at L'Arret au Port. (Tell Jacques the owner that John sent you...). A small supermarket in the town centre (1 km) or Intermarché, Lidl and a new Leclerc at the other side of the town.

The Tabarly sailing centre at the old submarine pens (Lorient) is worth a visit and is the base for the Banque Populaire trimaran amongst others.

You can also moor virtually in the town centre if crowds and noise are your thing.

Port Louis marina has recently been enlarged and is just past the Citadelle at the entrance.

The Blavet is navigable as far as Hennebont.

From Lorient we usually would head for Belle Ile ignoring the Etel estuary where onshore winds can render the bar difficult. The usual arrival port is Sauzon which has to be among the prettiest ports in Brittany. There is an inner harbour which dries out with a flat sandy bottom and an outer harbour where you raft to buoys. Outside this harbour, buoys are also in place. In northerly winds however it can be uncomfortable. In port, try the Bistro du Port (grilled sardines or côte de boeuf grilled on an open fire in front of you). There is another excellent restaurant to the right hand side of the church going up the hill. I forget its name.

Another place not to miss is Ster Wenn (pronounced Venn) which is an anchorage behind cliffs in the NW corner of Belle Ile. You enter Ster Vraz and then do a right angle to Ster Wenn. You anchor in the middle and take lines to the left bank. There is a golf green on the cliffs at Ster Vraz (9 hole course).

From there you can visit Le Palais, the main port on the island, and its Citadelle by Vauban.

From Belle Ile you either visit Port Haliguen and La Trinité (aka in France as the mecca of yachting) or the islands of Houat (“wot”) and Hoëdic (“eddick”) where you have a superb restaurant at the hotel. We also had an excellent grilled bass (bar grillé) “Chez Paul”. Houat has better anchorages than Hoëdic, and all around the island depending on the winds. Excellent walks on both islands.

Le Crouësty is a well appointed and friendly port but slightly soul destroying. It is a good stop-over point for visiting the Golfe de Morbihan; I prefer mooring to the east of Ile d’Arz but it’s not good holding ground. Better to use a buoy if possible. The island as well as the Ile aux Moines are picturesque and worth visiting.

That’s all for now folks….

Thank you for that, Sybarite.
Many fond memories reading your post - has to be the one of the most beautiful parts of the world.
We are now back in Brittany and can't wait to explore again, once the current mess blows over.

 

[westhinder]

Poignard said enough to fill more than one holiday and I agree with what he said. Among the multitude, what I would not want to skip is Sainte Marine, les Iles de Glénans, Belle Isle, Houat, Le Morbihan.
The good thing is you will want to go back to sample more. Enjoy!

Credit where credit is due: I meant Sybarite but I mistakenly wrote Poignard

 

[Koeketiene]

Poignard said enough to fill more than one holiday and I agree with what he said. Among the multitude, what I would not want to skip is Sainte Marine, les Iles de Glénans, Belle Isle, Houat, Le Morbihan.
The good thing is you will want to go back to sample more. Enjoy!

My home port & cruising ground.