When does one rebuild or replace a Volvo Engine?

[okolehao2]

Hi,

I am new to this forum but looked like a good place to start. I have my sail boat in the yard in Croatia for Osmosis repair and had my engine out for inspection.

I just got an estimate of 5200 EUR for a rebuild of the Volvo Penta MD 22 (59 HP) which I have there. The problem is this engine works and runs. I did notice that the boat is sluggish before I brought it to the yard, but that seems more to do with a wrongly sized prop.

In any case, the mechnic made a compelling case for a rebuild. He claimed my 10 year old engine will fail in a year. He claimed the engine has low compression 21,23,22,22 where the lowest min is 19. He mentioned the camshaft/timing belt needs to be changed and all the filters and pipes. But despite all this, I am still wondering if this is throwing money away when the engine works and starts fine. Or perhaps the money is better spent on a new engine?

thanks in advance for the help
/Arthur

 

[fireball]

No chance at getting a second opinion on your engine? it does seem a bit much, but I've not seen it and I'm not a mechanic ... I can tell you that an MGB petrol engine will run ok with very little compression, but you do loose power - I put a re-con engine in that.
It is probably worth changing older pipes and definatly the filters ...

 

[okolehao2]

Yes, I just showed another mechanic the offer in Croatia and he said I was getting an overpricied offer. He said to do the work, but he could do it 500 - 1000 EUR cheaper. Now, who do I belive? Who do I trust? How do I insure that I REALLY get a rebuilt engine since the engine works fine before the repairs?

 

[VicS]

Cambelt, filters and hoses are all routine stuff. If the engine starts Ok renew those and worry about low compression readings when it begins to be slow to start.

 

[cliff]

Change the belt and filters and save your money to buy a proper engine next year!
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[fireball]

There is a little phrase in constant use ....

If it ain't bust - don't fix it ....

If your reasonably happy that there is nothing wrong with your engine don't go for a rebuild ... I am always wary of ppl who tell me I need major work doing (to whatever) and then offer to do it (for a price) - your better off getting advice from ppl who will not profit from the outcome ..

 

[branko]

Measured compression not alarm to change piston rings at the moment. It will be better to change injectors, all tubes and filters and check electrical parts ( starter).

 

[Mirelle]

I would not be in a hurry

My engine is an MD2, an ancestor of yours, It is 38 years old, and most mechanics who look at it throw up their hands in horror and tell me to get a new one.

It did have a rebuild with new bearing shells and piston rings when it was 22 years old, and I did muck out the water passages when it was 35 years old.

If a diesel starts, the compression is good enough, surely?

 

[Appleyard]

Re: I would not be in a hurry

I agree with Mirelle.... if it starts easily and does not blow out black smoke ,make nasty knocking noises,or use a lot of oil then there can't be a lot wrong with it. Get hold of a tin of Forte engine flush and a tin of Forte diesel fuel treatment. Warm up the beast and pour the flush in to the oil filler . Let it tick over for about 20 mins and drain out the oil. This stuff will clean the piston rings and remove all the crud that hangs about the oilways. Fill with fresh oil,replace the oil filter,and add the fuel treatment to the fuel tank.Give the boat a good run and in the next few days it will clean the injector pump and also the injectors.atreat the engine to a new air filter and you will notice a marked difference. Forte have a website..google for it. Much cheaper than a new engine!! Cheers

 

[Micky]

IMHO, change the cam belt, if this bust then you will definitely need a rebuild or new engine. Also change a few hoses, give it a good service and continue to use it.

 

[jimboaw]

Got it? The devil you know is- etc. etc. Do the routine stuff and save some big dosh for a few more seasons

 

[Norman_E]

Sounds a bit of a rip off to me. As others have said if it starts and runs the compression cannot be too bad. Only thing I might worry about is the cam belt. If I am correct and it is one of those toothed rubber belts, they do have a finite life which Volvo should put in their sevicing schedule (i.e. replace belt after so many hours) I would check this out and have a new belt fitted if the engine is approaching the number of hours from the last change. Other than that I doubt you need to rebuild the engine and anyone who tells you it will fail inside a year is probably scaremongering to try and get the job.

I run a diesel car and have found that it definitely benefits from a full throttle high speed run occasionally. At one time a loose turbo hose caused it to run badly and it built up carbon in the cylinders. After the hose was re-fitted a high speed run burned the carbon out (accompanied by a cloud of smoke) and restored full power. I guess that boat diesels which normally run at a slow steady speed will also benefit from an occasional full throttle run.

 

[boatmike]

You say you are not a mechanic, but changing a cambelt and filters is not difficult if you are reasonably practical. I agree with others that the cambelt should be changed to avoid a serious failure but this is an easy enough job if you are confident to do it. If not don't miss the obvious in that you don't need a marine engineer to do it. (I am a marine engineer by the way and although retired still do some work of this nature locally here in England) Any competent motor mechanic from an auto shop will do it for you at a fraction of the price you mentioned. Its no different to a car engine. Changing filters should be done every year along with an oil change. You should learn to do this yourself at least but if you prefer, find a local mechanic, but it's an annual bill. If the external oil and fuel pipes are corroded these should be changed but this is also a very simple job. The biggest factor in the cost of such work is access to the engine. Assuming there is space around it to work on in situ this is no more than a days work. In this case even the most expensive mechanic would cost you no more than £60 per hour here so the labour charge should be no more than £500 and parts are certainly no more than £100 so look for a bill of about £600. If the engine has to come out to get at it though you could be in for 3 times this plus cranage which could be approaching £2000, which is approx €3000 . Anything over €4000 I would class as a rip-off, especially in Croatia where the labour costs should be lower.
Ask for a written itemised quotation giving labour and material breakdown. If they won't give you one go elsewhere.
Finally the compression ratings you mention are not untoward. There is no reason to strip this engine down. All work is external.
Hope this helps...