Whats the best marine filler?

[kyleabingdon23]

Hello again...
I will soon be painting my boat (The hull is teak). She is primed and ready to go...
I have been reserching marine fillers in order to take out small dents and blemishes, but thought i would ask people who have actualy used the stuff instead of reliying on adverts.
I would like to use the filler below the waterline as well as above so in your experience whats is the best stuff to use???
Cheers. kyle

 

[Peterduck]

I have only ever used epoxy filler, so cannot comment on other kinds. With teak, of course, you need to combat the natural oilyness of the timber in order to get anything to stick. Brushing on acetone or white spirit and wiping off with a cloth will help, as will drilling shallow holes into the dent area if it is large and shallow to help give the filler a rough surface to grip. A narrow. deep groove woulfd not require this.
Peter.

 

[tillergirl]

Both International and Blakes do a 'trowelling cement' which International now call Interfill and Blakes call Unifiller. I think the International one is produced in Interfill 100 and 200. These are for use above the waterline if I remeber correctly but are very quick and easy for filling minor blemishes. Below the waterline, Peter's epoxy filler is the thing and that may be the Interfill 200 or is it 400? Don't use it myself so can't comment on that one. Filling seams or gaps that will take up however should not use this stuff - rather go for red lead putty which you can either make up yourself or buy from a traditional boat supply company. Given the nature of your boats construction I would defer to Mirelle's comments on your previous post - your seams are not for filling but anything around the keel, sternpost etc that needs something should not have a filler that sets hard.

 

[Mirelle]

I also have a teak hull (carvel not double diagonal).

You need different stuff above and below the waterline.

Like Tillergirl, I use what was once called trowel cement and is now called "Unifiller" from Hempels - International make a similar stuff - for minor topsides imperfections - bumps from the dinghy, etc.

Below the waterline I don't bother with any filler for bumps and dings.

In the seams, above the waterline - linseed oil putty with white lead paste added below the waterline, I use red lead putty, but another very good stuff, if you can find some, (they have just gone out of business!) is Jeffrey's "Seamflex", which does not go hard.

I don't know what one should use in double diagonal seams that have opened, and I would be inclined to consult a good wooden boat yard or failing that a good surveyor with extensive wooden boat experience.

 

[kyleabingdon23]

Thanks again for your useful help. I will look into it.

 

[rich]

On my old Osbourn double diagonal planked boat it had canvase between the planks, I never needed to use filler, and she was built in 1940, she now belongs to a fellow formurite.

 

[jon]

My advice is DO NOT use white spirit, it leaves an oily residue which epoxy will not stick to, better to use a compatible thinner to the epoxy filler or denatured alcohol.

 

[kengill]

Ever tried plastic wood?. Over time you'll be able to replace that nasty wood with a laminate of plastic wood core and fibreglass casing and thus enter the wonderful world of tupperware. Seriously it works well above the waterline and you can get different hues so that you can varnish and show the grain instead of having to paint.

Ken