What will remove burgess woodsealer

[paulsmith]

Burgess woodseal.like Marmite... Some love it ,I hate it, Is there a solvent or something that will remove/disolve it.( it's on teak rubbing strips etc.) I know it will eventually erode away but I'd rather not wait that long.
Any Ideas?
Paul

 

[pvb]

Horrible stuff...

I agree with you, it's horrible stuff. The Woodsealer website says that dried Woodsealer on brushes can be removed with petrol, so maybe that's what you need to try. Usual precautions, etc, etc.

 

[Shanty]

I've just been removing the remains of umpteen coats of Woodsealer from iroko cockpit locker lids. Sanding is a waste of time - Woodsealer is so soft it just clogs the paper. Cellulose thinners will dissolve it (as will petrol), but you are then left with a brown slurry to remove. In the end, I resorted to using a cabinet scraper (several times), followed by sandpaper to check whether I'd removed it all.

Woodsealer is great stuff, but not in high traffic areas - not tough enough. I'm going to try a two pot varnish instead.

 

[Birdseye]

I ended up using exactly the same technique - cabinet scraper and sand paper

 

[Anchorite]

Re: What the eye can\'t see...

I use lots of Burgess woodsealer - but have one basic rule: NEVER anywhere visible!

 

[doca]

I used a furniture stripper "Coltron" (I think thats the name) to remove that awful burgess stuff that had been applied to the teak deck by a previous owner. Rather slow & tedious. Then the chap on the boat next to me was using a fine paint scraper so I completed the removal using one of these. Nothing like bare teak!

 

[PCUK]

Definitive answer:-
Use copious amounts of petrol and a stainless steel scourer to soften it. Then use plenty of kitchen towel soaked in petrol to wipe it up. Finish with dry kitchen towel. Bit messy but very quick. I have used Burgess on my wheelhouse floors for 20 years and simply remove and renew every six or seven years. Fantastic stuff if you know how to use it.

 

[MIKE_MCKIE]

I used abrasive wheels in a mains drill to take it off the rubbing strips & handlrails. It did clog most other things, but the high speed poly wheels did the job without too much aggro. It took 3 x 8" to do the job, not cheap but it only took a couple of hours to strip, then another couple to fine sand.
For the first year I was sold on Burgess, but after that trying to repair damaged areas &/or maintain the remainder of the coating was just a pain. Changed to Deks Olje and have a similar story, good for first season, then problems trying to maintain a decent finish!
Perhaps PERSHILLA could enlighten us (or me at any rate) as to how to use Burgess to get 6 years life out of it. I still consider it easiest to apply & best finish, at least to start with, just can't maintain that standard for very long. I did of course follow ALL the instructions.