What varnish for Iroko

miko

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I would like to restore some rather weatherbeaten wood (handrails, tiller, rubbing strake) which I think is iroko. Can anyone advise a suitable varnish or preparation as I understand not all varnishes will work well with iroko.
 
Check some labels/datasheets... many varnishes are fine on oily woods like iroko, so long as you get the surface prep right, sanding and using thinners to degrease the surface before applying the varnish...
 
Iroko varnishing

I made new companionway surrounds from iroko (actually the timber supplier made them and I just cut to size and installed).
Carefully degreased as above then first coat of clear moisture cured urethane followed by several coats of traditional varnish. MCU seals the wood and forms an excellent base layer. I use traditional varnish to finish because I like the colour and gloss but you can use pretty much any other varnish instead. Just about to start the 3rd season and I will need to top up the traditional varnish for the first time - clean, light abrade and 2 coats should be OK.
Blakes sell clear MCU as Wood Sealer and International sell it as Universal Clear Primer.
 
Tried the lot on our gunnels, we now use Ronseal garden furniture stain, "IT DOES WHAT IT SAYS ON THE TIN" a light annual scrub with wire wool, and recoat.
 
I made new companionway surrounds from iroko (actually the timber supplier made them and I just cut to size and installed).
Carefully degreased as above then first coat of clear moisture cured urethane followed by several coats of traditional varnish. MCU seals the wood and forms an excellent base layer. I use traditional varnish to finish because I like the colour and gloss but you can use pretty much any other varnish instead. Just about to start the 3rd season and I will need to top up the traditional varnish for the first time - clean, light abrade and 2 coats should be OK.
Blakes sell clear MCU as Wood Sealer and International sell it as Universal Clear Primer.

Unless they have changed it UCP used to advise against use on oily woods.
There are, however, great clear epoxy primers such as Wood Impreg 120 these days. You can use a 2 pack polyurethane or Epifanes on top.
Cetol would make sense on a rubbing strake.Shiny varnish there keeps people like me busy but doesn't really make sense.
Cheers,
Chris
 
Another vote for Sikens Cetol Marine , (natural finish)
I stripped all my exterior iroko back to bare wood and used it a couple of years ago. First impressions are very favourable.

If I was doing it now I think I would look at Sikens Cetol Novatech and Novatop. As a system they have been strongly recommended on here but two years ago I had not heard of them. BUT the technical blurb does say not suitable for oily woods such as teak and iroko.

Two points to make though

Nothing looks better than well maintained varnish ... nothing looks worse than badly maintained varnish.
 
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2 coats of 50/50 epiphanes & thinners, then 4-8 coats of epiphanes should look amazing. I only got to 2x 50/50 and one coat before the weather interferred - it looked amazing. Sadly it all needs to be started from the beginning again when the weather is better.
 
Ps....I was advised by a marine services proffessional who had spent years varnishing fedships and other large motor yachts. I was confident their advice to use Epiphanes was good.
 
Ps....I was advised by a marine services proffessional who had spent years varnishing fedships and other large motor yachts. I was confident their advice to use Epiphanes was good.

Yes, if you follow the single componenet varnish route then
I am sure that most of my fellow professionals would only use Epifanes.
However, stuff that is likely to get repeatedly knocked, such as rubbing strakes,
perhaps need a different approach unless you are happy with a shoddy look most of the time.
Cheers,
Chris
 
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