what to replace formica chart table with ?

[steveeasy]

Hi,
My chart table in the CO32 was dreadful. Horrible wood effect Formica on top of nice plywood. Unfortunately they made it so you could not open the lid more than a few inches so I cant reuse the wood. Ive removed it and want to replace it with something thats got a nice warm colour to it. I still have not decided if im going to have a gloss or matt varnish finish.

The last boat I just used an old offcut of plywood I had, no idea what it was but the varnish brought out a nice colour. Ive no idea what to use, So thought I might ask the experts. Ive added a pic of my last boats chart table and it had no veneer on it. Of course a veneer would be nice but id like a wood that will give some colour.

Any help appreciated.

Steveeasy

 

[tillergirl]

Buy a veneer! A wooden veneer. Strip off the old veneer and after prep. glue a timber veneer - I used a thick mahogany veneer. Easy to cut - much easier than another formica or similar veneer, easy to glue and a really, really good finish would outlive you.

 

[Boathook]

Go for a suitable colour veneer and a few coats of a matt varnish. Personally I prefer a light coloured wood so may be American oak ?

 

[Tranona]

I did mine in American oak but made the mistake of using contact adhesive so have some bits lifting. Looks good from a distance. I did it in situ but if doing it on a new bit of ply off the boat I would use a proper veneer adhesive and weights to hold it down.

 

[KevinV]

Veneer and good ply is so expensive that it's worth looking in charity shops or local auctions for brown furniture - they're practically giving it away and the quality of older mahogany or walnut is just fabulous.

Satin varnish over a build up of gloss is my preference for depth of colour.

 

[doug748]

The original chart tables were teak faced plywood edged with solid timber, with a raised lip at the front. This hides the edge of the ply and protects the veneer. You can pick it out on this snap, though the detail changed over the years and this is not a J Rogers standard boat:



Courtesy Yachtsnet,

So you could get a piece of cut board and start from scratch.

The problem with re-veneering is that it leaves the edges a bit vulnerable to lifting and damage, so better to take off the lips, veneer the board and then re-apply new lippings. Quite a bit of extra work. I have just today varnished mine after thinking sod it I can't face redoing it properly
However, as you hate it as it is, it's worth giving it a go. You can get iron on sheets, though I have never used them myself:

Real Wood Flexi Veneer Pre-Glued Iron On - Choice of Species - 2500x300x0.6mm | eBay

If you get hold of solid veneers you can hot iron them on using quality, waterproof PVA. You need a bit of patience and technique but it works.

.

 

[steveeasy]

Ok. Advice taken. Veneer has been ordered. I was hoping I could avoid the veneer route, But I want a good finish. Not sure what ill finish it with yet but ive ordered enough to do a few extra bits. ill try a gloss and matt a matt finish and perhaps try a wax as well. could be fun.

Thanks
Steveeasy

 

[steveeasy]

The original chart tables were teak faced plywood edged with solid timber, with a raised lip at the front. This hides the edge of the ply and protects the veneer. You can pick it out on this snap, though the detail changed over the years and this is not a J Rogers standard boat:


View attachment 171845
Courtesy Yachtsnet,

So you could get a piece of cut board and start from scratch.

The problem with re-veneering is that it leaves the edges a bit vulnerable to lifting and damage, so better to take off the lips, veneer the board and then re-apply new lippings. Quite a bit of extra work. I have just today varnished mine after thinking sod it I can't face redoing it properly
However, as you hate it as it is, it's worth giving it a go. You can get iron on sheets, though I have never used them myself:

Real Wood Flexi Veneer Pre-Glued Iron On - Choice of Species - 2500x300x0.6mm | eBay

If you get hold of solid veneers you can hot iron them on using quality, waterproof PVA. You need a bit of patience and technique but it works.

.

I think once they got going, they chucked in formica. it was horrible. Im well in to my internal makeover. Ive sinned a little but can be reversed if needed. new upholstery has been made. The seat backs have gone forever and ive broken away from tradition and the Table leg has gone in to storage not to return. Ive sat in places I could not get too before.

Steveeasy

 

[garymalmgren]

Hi Steve.
I am a formica guy.
Looking at your photo I see an ugly blue formica chart table on the starboard side..
It is in reasonable condition with no real scratches, stains, whiskey ring etc , but the worst colour that anyone could choose.
My guess is it was in the cheap bin.

In the ports side I see two wooden veneer counter top/stove covers that are scratched, dinged, varnish lifting, water stained.

I would cover both sides with a more attractive ( and there are a million design/ colours to choose from) formica.
Easy to wipe up spills. Scratch and stain resistant. A light colour brightens the interior. Easy to fit. No need for varnishing.
Cheap and easy to get you hands on.

Redo your table to keep some wood aboard.

Gary

 

[steveeasy]

Hi Steve.
I am a formica guy.
Looking at your photo I see an ugly blue formica chart table on the starboard side..
It is in reasonable condition with no real scratches, stains, whiskey ring etc , but the worst colour that anyone could choose.
My guess is it was in the cheap bin.

In the ports side I see two wooden veneer counter top/stove covers that are scratched, dinged, varnish lifting, water stained.

I would cover both sides with a more attractive ( and there are a million design/ colours to choose from) formica.
Easy to wipe up spills. Scratch and stain resistant. A light colour brightens the interior. Easy to fit. No need for varnishing.
Cheap and easy to get you hands on.

Redo your table to keep some wood aboard.

Gary

Thanks for the complements!!, that was my previous boat finished!! the formica was specifically chosen in that colour!!. Still youve made me smile a lot!!. The original Table was removed from that boat Too.

Steveeasy

 

[garymalmgren]

Ooops.
Sorry Steve.

 

[steveeasy]

Ooops.
Sorry Steve.

No dont be. Its a classic and the best laugh ive had all day.

Steveeasy

 

[MontyMariner]

Veneer has been ordered.

It won't help you now but old veneered and solid wood furniture can be picked up for peanuts from auctions and 2nd hand furniture shops. It isn't too difficult to shave the wood down and leave the veneer and a layer of backing wood.

 

[steveeasy]

It won't help you now but old veneered and solid wood furniture can be picked up for peanuts from auctions and 2nd hand furniture shops. It isn't too difficult to shave the wood down and leave the veneer and a layer of backing wood.

It’s something I have considered and I’ve used odd bits before.

Steveeasy

 

[rogerthebodger]

Have you considered doing an inlaid compass rose on your new navigation table

Inlaid compass rose

I started doing one but did not finish it

Mine is sectioned veneer with the grain going in center to corner and I have a sheet of perspex on to with any boat documents under

 

[MontyMariner]

Have you considered doing an inlaid compass rose on your new navigation table
I started doing one but did not finish it

. . . because the deviation card was too difficult

 

[rogerthebodger]

. . . because the deviation card was too difficult

I had a boat to finish and launch so no time

 

[Neeves]

Go for a suitable colour veneer and a few coats of a matt varnish. Personally I prefer a light coloured wood so may be American oak ?

I too preferred a light coloured wood and built a new solid saloon table in African Ash to match the base. I have a WWII destroyer bridge compass and did think of incorporating it into the design - but went for something slightly simpler.

Jonathan