What should I expect to pay for hull preparation and Coppercoating?

[Babylon]

Just decided to have the hull Coppercoated this Spring. I don't have the time to do any of the work myself (hence why I'm posting here rather than on PBO!), and am interested in what I'd expect to pay for a specialist to slurry off the old antifouling etc, carry out any minor repairs to the gel-coat, and build up the requisite coats of copper-impgregnated epoxy.

Boat is a 27ft long-keeler, south-coast based.

 

[Tranona]

You really need to discuss your requirements with an operator as there are different ways of preparing the surface. The majority of the cost is labour, so any additional work over the basic application has a significant impact on costs.

Coppercoat will give you a list of recommended operators, but you may try Symblast and Ellesar (who posts here) as a start.

 

[jac]

Iirc you are in Deacons like me. They apply it there, grab Nick when you're next there. Also when I was there today I noticed an ARC unit setting up so might be a good moment to ask as they can probably give a very accurate quote straight away.

 

[sailorman]

Just decided to have the hull Coppercoated this Spring. I don't have the time to do any of the work myself (hence why I'm posting here rather than on PBO!), and am interested in what I'd expect to pay for a specialist to slurry off the old antifouling etc, carry out any minor repairs to the gel-coat, and build up the requisite coats of copper-impgregnated epoxy.

Boat is a 27ft long-keeler, south-coast based.

Do you really believe it to be a cost effective solution.

 

[Babylon]

Do you really believe it to be a cost effective solution.

Cost-effective in what sense?

 

[sailorman]

Cost-effective in what sense?

cost then rubbing down every year to expose more copper.

 

[Babylon]

I understood that keying the surface was only needed every few years.

I have very low cost scrubbing facilities close to my mooring complete with pressure washer, power etc. Jetting followed by a rub can be done in one tide, and anodes etc don't take a trice.

Hauling, hardstanding and relaunch is easily £500 each year, plus £100 of antifouling, plus more time scraping flaking paint, priming, then two coats of antifoul.

In strict financial terms it should pay for itself fairly quickly, plus fewer 2.5hr round trips for each of haul, relaunch etc - AND I'll not miss any fine sailing weekends!

 

[Marsupial]

cost then rubbing down every year to expose more copper.

mine has only been on for 11 years, when it needs rubbing down to expose more copper because its stopped working I'll let you know.

 

[oldvarnish]

No rubbing down needed on mine - 4 years now

 

[wiggy]

I was quoted I the region of £2400 for the complete job on 32ft fin keel.

 

[dslittle]

Five years - no rubbing...

 

[Daydream believer]

mine has only been on for 11 years, when it needs rubbing down to expose more copper because its stopped working I'll let you know.

Mines on its third year

When it STARTS working I will let you know

 

[Elessar]

Iirc you are in Deacons like me. They apply it there, grab Nick when you're next there. Also when I was there today I noticed an ARC unit setting up so might be a good moment to ask as they can probably give a very accurate quote straight away.

In deacons we work in partnership with Nick in the yard - speak to him he will do you an all in price. And have others have said, Sailorman is misinformed about the need to abrade. Just jetwash or scrub with a brush on a scrubbing grid - for free! Even if you have a lift, you just need a lift and hold which is cheaper than blocking off.

As for costs, as a very rough rule of thumb, price for blasting and hull prep then application, including coming back to do the area where the chocks are etc, and the abrade before launch (the only one you need to do) - ie everything done for you - it costs about twice the cost of the coppercoat itself.

 

[Elessar]

Mines on its third year

When it STARTS working I will let you know

oh dear. Which bit of the instructions didn't you read?

 

[geem]

Second season no rubbing and no fouling, no scraping, no dust mask, no painting

 

[sailorman]

mine has only been on for 11 years, when it needs rubbing down to expose more copper because its stopped working I'll let you know.

Thank you for the info, i understood that a rub down each yr was req & a lifetime of 10 yrs expected

 

[Sans Bateau]

We are coming up to our 9th year, no rubbing down.

 

[jac]

In deacons we work in partnership with Nick in the yard - speak to him he will do you an all in price. And have others have said, Sailorman is misinformed about the need to abrade. Just jetwash or scrub with a brush on a scrubbing grid - for free! Even if you have a lift, you just need a lift and hold which is cheaper than blocking off.

As for costs, as a very rough rule of thumb, price for blasting and hull prep then application, including coming back to do the area where the chocks are etc, and the abrade before launch (the only one you need to do) - ie everything done for you - it costs about twice the cost of the coppercoat itself.

That's good to know. Was speaking to him about a quote yesterday, probably back end of the season though.

 

[thomd]

I have also been seriously considering blasting the antifoul back to gelcoat and applying Coppercoat to my 28 foot long keeler based South Coast. However I have been advised by a couple of yacht surveyors not to apply coppercoat over gelcoat unless the hull moisture readings are almost perfectly dry. Otherwise the epoxy in the Coppercoat is trapping in any moisture and can accelerate potential blistering in future.

It seems though that many 'older' boats have successfully had coppercoat applied over original gelcoat and I can't imagine all these hulls were perfectly dry. I have asked coppercoat manufacturers AMC and they have said it is ok if hull moisture readings are 'reasonable' but what is reasonable?!

 

[RobbieW]

...It seems though that many 'older' boats have successfully had coppercoat applied over original gelcoat and I can't imagine all these hulls were perfectly dry. I have asked coppercoat manufacturers AMC and they have said it is ok if hull moisture readings are 'reasonable' but what is reasonable?!

Mine, a 1983 Rival 41, had readings of 6-8 (iirc) over most of the hull - the area that was higher is the sump at the back of the ballast which was full of water. The rudder was also a higher reading, about 15 iirc. Trouble is I cant remember what meter was used for those readings so I'm not sure it helps Again iirc, AMC advised 'under 10' was ok.

The boat had been out of the water for around 12 months prior to my purchase so I figured it was as dry as it was likely to get. Coppercoat now been on since summer '09 and the boat almost permanently in the water. I havent seen any lifting or bubbling so I think its prettty well attached.

We used 3 layers of AMC hi-build epoxy then about 5 coats of coppercoat. As I think the durability of the coppercoat is related to the number of layers applied, it makes sense to add more rather than less - given the expense is mostly in the labour.

Its great to be able to dive on the boat with a metal scraper to remove what growth is there and not worry about removing the antifoul - no tides here