What is this block thing called?

[dgadee]

And where can I buy one?

 

[RunAgroundHard]

Barton call a similar item a pulley block, but single line sheave. Also called turning block.

 

[thinwater]

View attachment 180735

And where can I buy one?

Not an answer ... but how does it work? If you pull one line at a time some of them are going to be skidding and thus it will wear. It seems to me you either need separate blocks or a metal pulley that works as a low friction surface. I'm also not clear on how the hour glass shape helps, since it pushes them together, causing friction and potential overrides. Seems like a straigh rod with thick, rounded washers on both sides would be better.

Overall, seems rigged. I would not replace it in kind. I'd go with a triple lead block.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Halyard lift block is what should be there.

 

[thinwater]

^^ Exactly

 

[Refueler]

Turning Block - but usually only designed for one line. Having three like that causes the wear patterns you can see in the rubber ... plus the chafe of line to line.

I would be inclined to swap that out for a true 3 sheave turning block to separate the lines properly.

 

[dgadee]

I am taking reef lines back to the cockpit. Only one of the three lines will be under tension at any one point in time. Does that make a difference?

I have individual blocks on the other boat but this seemed simpler - and was on the new to me boat - given that only one line will be working at a time.

 

[Refueler]

I understand your post - but still not liking idea of three lines like that ... just needs working line to ride over one of the others and it could be a mess.

You can see the grooves cut into the roller - caused by roller not moving while line used.

 

[DownWest]

I xwould likely use the SS frame and swop the sheave out for three seperate ones, just looks wrong.

 

[dgadee]

I xwould likely use the SS frame and swop the sheeve out for three seperate ones, just looks wrong.

They might still get crossed over?

I admit to never having seen this before. It's a Fulmar where very little has changed since 1980. There were two 10mm reef lines running through this block (and needed an Olympic weightlifter to put in a reef given the way the lines ran in the other parts of the system). I've gone down to 8mm lines with sufficient strength and added a third.

But ... I'll redo it over the coming winter and use triple blocks.

 

[DownWest]

They might still get crossed over?

I admit to never having seen this before. It's a Fulmar where very little has changed since 1980. There were two 10mm reef lines running through this block (and needed an Olympic weightlifter to put in a reef given the way the lines ran in the other parts of the system). I've gone down to 8mm lines with sufficient strength and added a third.

But ... I'll redo it over the coming winter and use triple blocks.

One could put thin ss plates between the blocks to ensure spacing, but doubt they are needed if the lines are kept even slightly taught.

 

[penberth3]

Not an answer ... but how does it work? If you pull one line at a time some of them are going to be skidding and thus it will wear. It seems to me you either need separate blocks or a metal pulley that works as a low friction surface. I'm also not clear on how the hour glass shape helps, since it pushes them together, causing friction and potential overrides. Seems like a straigh rod with thick, rounded washers on both sides would be better.

Overall, seems rigged. I would not replace it in kind. I'd go with a triple lead block.

Agreed, it doesn't look right.

I'm wondering if that rubber item has replaced three separate sheaves? A previous bodge for reasons unknown?

 

[Rappey]

Looks more like a keel roller for a boat trailer

 

[dunedin]

They might still get crossed over?

I admit to never having seen this before. It's a Fulmar where very little has changed since 1980. There were two 10mm reef lines running through this block (and needed an Olympic weightlifter to put in a reef given the way the lines ran in the other parts of the system). I've gone down to 8mm lines with sufficient strength and added a third.

But ... I'll redo it over the coming winter and use triple blocks.

Concerto is the expert on Fulmars, but from my recollection that is certainly non standard.
And re your original question, what is this fitting called....... a bodge !

 

[fredrussell]

Looks more like a keel roller for a boat trailer

I think you’re right. I kept looking at the pic thinking “I’m sure I’ve seen one of those before”…

 

[dgadee]

Looks more like a keel roller for a boat trailer

Too small, I think, for that.

 

[oldharry]

Small keel roller for a dinghy trailer. I have almost exactly the same thing on my trailer, for the fwd keel roller. Simply not the right thing for the job, and a recipe for disaster in a blow on a dark night once one line rides another and jams it just when you really need to reef....

 

[thinwater]

Now I get it. Still a kludge and still funky, but if it works and it was in the character of the boat, I might just fix it, just for fun. I don't think you can buy proper parts, or more to the point, it can be made better.

• Smooth up the existing roller. This could be done on a lathe, but also on a drill press or even with good hand drill by putting a long bolt down the center and applying a disk grinder lightly while spinning. I might change the profile a little, with more of a flat section in the center 2/3. Mostly, just take out the grooves.
• Drill up the center and install something slippery for a bearing. This will help it turn. Polyethylene airline tubing is a good choice. Or some sort of plastic piping product that fits, not too tight, not rattly loose. Not vinyl tubing (not slippery).
• Narrow it enough for a slightly loose fit and make large side washers from ~ 1 mm polyethylene sheet. A pounds store cutting board, for example. Just loose enough to turn easily.

Could be fun.

---

[The other poster's comments about jamming are not wrong. But you should know if it does or not by now.]

 

[William_H]

The pulley looks to me like one I saw on a 30 fter for jib sheet block. it was mounted on a track on side decks. This style was used to get the jib sheet approach to the winches low enough. Certainly not suitable or multiple lines even if only one is in use under load. ol'will

 

[john_morris_uk]

I am taking reef lines back to the cockpit. Only one of the three lines will be under tension at any one point in time. Does that make a difference?

I have individual blocks on the other boat but this seemed simpler - and was on the new to me boat - given that only one line will be working at a time.

Only one line under tension at a time isn’t strictly true. If you’ve got one reef in and you need to add a second reef, you don’t normally slack off the reefing line of reef one first. You just haul in on reefing line two…
I’ve sailed more than one Fulmar and don’t recall seeing any such turning block on any of them so in don’t think it’s original.

You could replace it with a triple sheaved block or replace the rubber ‘sheave’ in this one with three metal sheaves with a shaped stainless plate arrangement in between each sheave to stop the lines jumping or getting swapped over etc. The stainless plates could be in a ‘U’ shape with a hole and made just to fit without rotating. (Hopefully you can imagine what I mean. If not I’ll draw a picture.)