What have you broken while fixing something else

Firefly625

Firefly625

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Spent a nice day on Saturday down at mercury. Arrived just after 9 and saw Colin (colhel) enjoyed a chat and a coffee with Colin and Helen who are such lovely folk, and suddenly it was 10.15, then armed with a wire brush, brake cleaner ( My very favourite boat product), a very large roll of paper towelling, masking tape and a roll of body shop paper roll, cleaned my engine, rubbed down all corrosion and painted everything that didn't look pretty with the result that it now looks great ( even if I do say so myself) . Then decided I had time to try and re-seal my central windscreen window ( an opening window), when it rains or when we are pretending to be a submarine it just drips a bit. Took the stays off, and removed the seal, but as the stays were off the window obviously ( I now say) can freely move beyond its norms Restricted opening angle and pushed the vetus parallel wipers beyond there normal reach and I had 2 black bits of plastic snap off, £75 later a new wiper set is on its way from vitesse marine.

I know this is just one little thing, I have previous which has cost more but I can't even admit to some of my stupidity as someone may tell swmbo..

Make me feel less daft, what have you done???
 
Oh and does anyone know where I can buy those little brass bolts that secure the impeller cover for a VP raw water pump. They snap easily don't they
 
This may not sort your particular problem,but we all get little leaks and Sikaflex or good old duck tape(temp fix)seems the only solution.

I have seen this product,silicon putty from https://sugru.com to my eye looks interesting so will give it a go.

Using household putty to refit windows is a darn site easier to carry out so this may be a wonder product for
leaking windows without needing to us Sikaflex or the like.

I am going to buy some and use it when I get a leak so will give some feed back.

Whats your view?
 
Ahh yes. Tracing an ignition fault I managed to ruin a starter solenoid which of course I did not know at the time and spent many more happy hours tracing an ignition fault with bits of wire from the battery positive terminal in one hand and a multimeter in the other and then managed to ruin an alternator. Was a pennies worth ignition switch that had corroded and my bumbling made it a rather expensive repair. TF it was on my cuddy and not the MoBo or I'd still be kicking my heels over it.
 
Firefly you were simply following the laws of life
1. Murphy's First Law:
Nothing is as easy as it looks.
2. Murphy's Second Law:
Everything takes longer than you think.
3. Murphy's Third Law:
In any field of scientific endeavor, anything that can go wrong will go wrong.
4. Murphy's Fourth Law:
If there is a possibility of several things going wrong, the one that will cause the most damage will be the one to go wrong.
5. Murphy's Fifth Law:
If anything just cannot go wrong, it will anyway.
6. Murphy's Sixth Law:
If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which a procedure can go wrong and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop.
7. Murphy's Seventh Law:
Left to themselves, things tend to go from bad to worse.
8. Murphy's Eighth Law:
If everything seems to be going well, you have obviously overlooked something.
9. Murphy's Ninth Law:
Nature always sides with the hidden flaw.
10. Murphy's Tenth Law:
Mother Nature is a bitch.
11. Murphy's Eleventh Law:
It is impossible to make anything foolproof, because fools are so ingenious.
 
Trying to trace a leak (which wasn't there in the end) at the Calorifier and managed to get caught up in the fuel sender wiring ripping it off its plug. Easy fix luckily, but really pi$$ed me off at the time!
 
Sort of relevant

The True Definition of Tools

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.

EXPLETIVE: A balm, also referred to as mechanic's lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.

- See more at: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Humorous_Tool_Definitions.html#sthash.cPfb7e8p.dpuf
 
jokerboat said:
Sort of relevant

The True Definition of Tools

DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...."

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes
until you die of old age.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit.

MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need.

EXPLETIVE: A balm, also referred to as mechanic's lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.

- See more at: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Humorous_Tool_Definitions.html#sthash.cPfb7e8p.dpuf
Click to expand...

You left off

LATHE - Machine for converting expensive unobtainium billet into worthless piece of scrap
 
oGaryo said:
Oh and does anyone know where I can buy those little brass bolts that secure the impeller cover for a VP raw water pump. They snap easily don't they
Click to expand...
They are an obscure UNF thread. M4 will squeeze in but you risk bursting the case of the pump. I bought some correct ones from Force 4 with raised heads so you can get a mole grip on them. If they are still in my bits box I will bring them along on Saturday, by which time I will find the correct thread size.
 
superheat6k said:
They are an obscure UNF thread. M4 will squeeze in but you risk bursting the case of the pump. I bought some correct ones from Force 4 with raised heads so you can get a mole grip on them. If they are still in my bits box I will bring them along on Saturday, by which time I will find the correct thread size.
Click to expand...
Put them in the auction :)
 
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